All cylinders filling with water

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I guess I'll jump in here on this and say that I kind of doubt it's head gaskets being blown. No way. Yeah, maybe on the dowels or stud length, but I dunno.....I'm sort of leaning towards that intake a bit, like was the intake milled to match the cylinder head amount of milling? Were there any traces of coolant in the intake ports or intake manifold plenum or runners?

Having coolant in ALL 8 cylinders? That's a trip!
 
Just because it's the kind of guy I am............I'm gonna hazard a guess it's your heads......"ported, polished, all the good stuff....."

Pull an intake /exhaust valve and look for a spot in the bowl, poke it with a scribe. Try it, you've got nothing to loose; if the bowls are tissue paper thin, might as well find out now.

Good luck!!




HemiTM said:
1972 360 .30 over
KB 191 @ 12 to 1
J heads 2.02 / 1.60
Zero decked
Ported, Polished all that good stuff
Gasket matched
273 Rockers 1.5
Comp XE285 HL (going to probably end up needing more cam)
Mopar M1 manifold
Holley 750
2 inch carb plate
Hooker 5204 headers
Mopar ECU and Distributor
Summit wires
Autolite AR51 plugs
Mopar mechanical fuel pump (Going to get the Carter Strip Super Series)
Click to expand...
 
I've seen this on at least 1/2 doz engines...head studs are problem.
On small blocks the studs have to be trimed so the shank of the stud is flush and seated to the deck...
 
Rob R said:
I've seen this on at least 1/2 doz engines...head studs are problem.
On small blocks the studs have to be trimed so the shank of the stud is flush and seated to the deck...
Click to expand...
Mine arent.I recently rebuilt the W2 heads on my 408 and installed them with no leak issues .I noticed that several of the ARP studs were a thread or two from sitting flush with the deck fully torqued .I reused the studs ,washers ,and the nuts also.Have made over 20 hard passes since and no leaks .Im thinking the OP problem is with the dowel pin heights /vrs the head as a few others have said ...
 
I agree with the "head sealing issue" for it to have water in each cylinder.Just remember when you get it buttoned up,your exhaust will still have water in it.Just sayin...Good luck finding your problem.
 
Rob R said:
I've seen this on at least 1/2 doz engines...head studs are problem.
On small blocks the studs have to be trimed so the shank of the stud is flush and seated to the deck...
Click to expand...

Use a bottom tap and get all the garbage out of the threads and bottom of the hole's before installing the studs. I would not be trimming head studs.
 
You said you're running ARP studs and you only torqued them to 95 ft lbs? If that's the case, it's blown head gaskets due to insufficient clamping force. The ARP instructions say to torque them to 110 ft lbs with ARP lubricant.

[ame]http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/144-4001.pdf[/ame]
 
lilcuda said:
You said you're running ARP studs and you only torqued them to 95 ft lbs? If that's the case, it's blown head gaskets due to insufficient clamping force. The ARP instructions say to torque them to 110 ft lbs with ARP lubricant.

http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/144-4001.pdf
Click to expand...

I seriously doubt he blew all 8 fire rings with a torque spec off by 15lbs at only 2500RPM or so. That would be a world record. I don't think I have ever seen all 8 blown at once. A couple, yes.
 
Took the heads to the machine shop this morning. They are not warped. All the valves were removed and everything looks great. The dowels were fine, plenty of room for them to fit into head. Put the heads on without the head gasket in place and I could not get a .013 feeler gauge in anywhere on either head. At this point I have cleaned up as much coffee creamer out of the engine as I can. We will be reinstalling everything tomorrow. New head gaskets and all.
 
I think i would button it all up and pressure check the cooling system before i fired it up again. that will let you know if you got it buttoned up tight or not.
 
Just wondering if a compression test was done before the first run. Is this routinely done on a fresh build?

Wouldn't the major leak have to have occurred during the second run or it would have already been locked up?

Is it expected that plugs being out could allow enough fluid to escape quickly enough to avoid damage when cranking with the cylinders filled up?

Sorry all I have are questions.
 
Idaho said:
Sorry all I have are questions.
Click to expand...

Your not the only one :). Can't wait to see what the verdict here is? Depending on the outcome, it might just save many of us a lot of hassle in the future.

As far as a comp. test on a fresh build.....i can say, i've never done it before.
 
OldmanRick said:
Your not the only one :). Can't wait to see what the verdict here is? Depending on the outcome, it might just save many of us a lot of hassle in the future.

As far as a comp. test on a fresh build.....i can say, i've never done it before.
Click to expand...
I can`t wait for the verdict either. I do feel it is going to be a positive one though!!
 
Just another thought.......if by chance this was a torque issue, i'd borrow another wrench and double check your readings. You never know if the original had a malfunction?
 
Beam torque wrenches never go out of adjustment...
 
I think I would air up the cylinders after you torque them down and before you install the rocker shafts to check for air leaks.
 
OldmanRick said:
Your not the only one :). Can't wait to see what the verdict here is? Depending on the outcome, it might just save many of us a lot of hassle in the future.

As far as a comp. test on a fresh build.....i can say, i've never done it before.
Click to expand...
i havent either, was wondering what you were gonna say...
 
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