Toss the tensioner and get a "True roller chain" Not a "roller chain" Big difference. If you can't spin the individual rollers the chain is garbage.
Many guys use the tensioner. The tensioner was designed to use with the V6 engines in the late 80's due to the cam tunnel and the crank bore being out of spec. It was a cheap fix for bad machine work. I won't use them . Why put pressure on a tight chain to give it more tension just to promote stretch. But to each his own.
You can see by your pictures both of you chains are to long. When you can see the slack you will have issues. Get a new chain. You only get what you pay for.
Roller Timing Chains
Roller timing chains have been available since the 1960s. The chains have a semi-floating tube that covers the chain links, allowing the chain to literally roll over the gear teeth. This helps reduce friction and chain stretch.
There are two types of roller timing chains available. The
single roller chain is much like the chain on a bicycle—the links or side plates of the chain pass over and around a single set of teeth in each gear. A
double roller chain is exactly what the name implies—gears with dual sets of teeth with a chain link for each set. Many late model OE engines, like GM’s LS-series V8s, have a single roller timing chain. A single roller is also ideal for most high performance street engines. When you get way up in the horsepower and rpm strata where big lift cams and very high valve spring pressures come into play, a double roller chain can better control harmonic vibration at the cost of a little additional weight. That means more stable cam timing in the engine where even a little deviation can cost horsepower.
A variant of the roller chain is the
“true roller.” This chain has pins or rollers that actually spin as they ride over the gear teeth. This further reduces friction compared to standard roller chains with rollers or pins that are fixed in place. You can get a true roller chain in single or double roller versions.
Some roller timing chain sets are manufactured with larger than stock pins. These are typically found in standard roller chains. This design yields a stronger, more durable chain, but adds more friction than a true roller.
Roller timing sets with iron cam gears have wear issues on iron engine blocks. Most engine builders machine the backside of the cam gear or the block area surrounding the cam nose to accept a bushing or a Torrington bearing. This prevents galling between the cam gear and the block. Many roller chain sets have steel gears to eliminate the problem altogether.
Another issue with a roller chain setup is the “chordal action,” a whipping motion that happens when the chain turns on the gear teeth. That whipping motion can literally turn the chain into an “S” shape. Chordal action can weaken the chain and also negatively affect valve timing, ignition timing, and mechanical oil and fuel pumps. That’s why it’s important to check the timing chain on regularly. If it’s tired, replace it.
That’s the short course on timing chains. If you’re planning to build a new engine, rebuild an old one, or simply replace a worn-out timing set, you now have a better idea of what chain will provide the performance you require.
This true roller chain below was on this race motor for 8 years .Its still tight and I'll reuse it on a street motor.
