All par alternator wiring change

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dustadude

dustadude

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dustadude said:
Has anyone use the method that they have on the website provided below where you charge straight from the alternator output to the solenoid. I'm running a 120 amp alternator and I'm looking on the page and it says I should be using 6 gauge with a 10 gauge fusible link. has anyone done a similar mate this, if you have could you please show me pictures?

Replacing electronic ignition completely in 1970s-1980s Chrysler, Dodge, and Plymouth cars and trucks

Thanks guys
Click to expand...

If you're running up to 120 amps through your bulkhead connector to your ammeter, and back through the bulkhead connector to the battery, you could have trouble. It's not something I'd do for a minute on a fifty year old car. Bypassing the connectors through the firewall is a quick and effective method of reducing the chances of a meltdown or fire.

My car is at my other property, so I can't get you a picture right now, but you really don't need one. Put a loop connector on either end of the cable, crimp and solder for durability, and put a fusible link in the line where it might not be right next to other lines if it burns. Also crimp and solder the fusible link connections. I used heat shrink tubing over all the connections, too. I routed it from the alternator along the valve cover with the other wires to the firewall, along the firewall to the apron, and through the plastic wire holders to the solenoid. I used a Ford type fusible link because it hid easily, and was available at the store when I bought the wire.

It took maybe an hour, taking my time, and it looks like a factory installation. You could do it in ten minutes, if you're in a hurry.

Your ammeter will no longer work properly, because very little current will be going through it. You can learn to tell what the new readings mean, or install a voltmeter. If original appearance of your instruments matters to you, you can have your ammeter converted to a voltmeter.

There are other methods that work nicely that run a solid wire through the firewall, eliminating the trouble spots at the bulkhead connectors, and are worth a look. But they could be considered a project, even if a small one. For driving right now, this bypass is hard to beat.

Easy, peasy. Don't put it off.
 
There is more than one way to do a bypass. Even "Ma" knew the old ammeter circuit was inadequate, look up what is called "Fleet / taxi" wiring.

Look up "Mad Electrical" and read the article

Crackedback on here sells a bypass cable for this purpose

THERE IS NO WAY I'd put more than about 55A alternator through the stock wiring, and even then it should be torn apart, inspected and repaired accordingly
 
67Dart273 said:
THERE IS NO WAY I'd put more than about 55A alternator through the stock wiring, and even then it should be torn apart, inspected and repaired accordingly
Click to expand...

This can't be overemphasized. I don't like to be an alarmist, but fix it, or run a high risk of burning down your car.
 
It is alarmist to the extent the emphasis is on the alternator.
It does not matter what the alternator can put it out.
What matters is how much current goes through the wires - and that is based only on the equipment drawing power.

A '37 Amp' alternator will provide a basic ignition system and field circuit 3-5 amps at approximately 14.0 Volts, at driving speeds.
The optional '60 amp' alternator will provide the same igntiion and field the same 3-5 amps at approximately 14.0 Volts, at driving speeds.

The real question on designing for increased current flow is additional equipment that either increases demand while driving, or demand on the battery (draining it more).

Wire size and fusible link.
The fusible link is there to protect against accidental battery short to ground. Typically they are two wire sizes smaller than the line they are protecting. The larger it is, the longer the longer the arc welding show will go on.

Wire sizes should be based on expected current in the wire.
Fuses and breakers are sized to protect the weakest wire or device downstream.

Fusible Links in Charging System
 
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Very nice, thanks guys. The gauges don't matter to me, I'm putting in an aftermarket set soon. I've looked at the taxi fleet, and the mad diagram as well. I was just curious as to what gauge to run.as for power draw it'll be standard draw now, no stereo, no alarm. Eventually updated headlights for something brighter. Thanks for all the input and info. I'm not currently driving the duster so I wanted to make sure this was done before I started driving again
 
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