AlterKtion - True Pro-Touring Suspension

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Didn't have a chance to call Bill yesterday, I didn't end up home until 11:30 last night.

I will call next week, as soon as my projects (work; I wish it was the car) start to close. I'm out of town own Monday, tomorrow is Father's Day, and today I need to go to a few project sites, meet clients, kiss babies and shake hands...... Though I am grabbing a new welding cart today!

Bill, are you 9-5 Monday through Friday?
 
Bill, I definately know where you are coming from regarding the fiberglass.

That was some advise I took as soon as it was received, and is in another thread on here (or on BBD or PT, I can't remember). I did order ALL items listed from AAR Fiberglass, and ordered regular weight items, with bolt on hood and trunk lid.

I was lucky enough to see an AAR hood on a drag car from the guy I bought my shell from, and with the hood closed, without actually touching it you really can't tell it's not steel. Some of that is body work, but most of it is structure. When not properly braced fiberglass is very unforgiving.

For the inner fenders, I will have to completely install the front suspension (where you will come in) as well as all fabrication before I can lay that out. I will be making my own inners from scratch, as I have fiberglass experience (I love the stuff).
 
How about early A cars? I have a '65 Valiant 2 door post car, small block powered, and have heard that the front fenders will start to pinch together with a Coil-over conversion using the stock K member. I know that the upper mount would need bracing (duh!) but my fabrication skills pretty much suck and my welding skills are much worse than that. Good thing my best bro is a retired Metal Fab/Welder! Does Bill, or any other vendor, make a brace that is available outside of a "kit"? I would love to spring for AlterKation but that is way tough on a retired guys "fixed" income so am toying with using stock K member and lower A arms. The car is strictly a street cruiser.
Bob
 
I finally spoke to Bill today, and I am quite eager..........

Updates to follow...................................................


:toothy5:
 
Bill, I had sent you an email through RMS, did it work?

I realized I had given you a work email / home email hybrid, I barely use my personal email unless I am expecting something.
 
In the email you said you'd prefer me to ponder your requirements for a week in order to make the best possible suggestions. So I am...
 
Perfect! Just wanted to make sure you had received it, since I had given you the incorrect email address when we spoke.

Ponder away!
 
:laughing: Everyone on the internet wants everything yesterday.



....Just busting your chops Top Heavy
 
All this enginering and only a week good thing it's not a goverment job or it would be get back to me tomarrow but the job wont start for a year. Just reading thru this thread has given me a headach. I'm glad you guys are all out there doing all this thinking so all I have to do is write a check. Thank you guys.
 
was looking at possibly going to use the AlterKation complete manual steering package


No offense but why would you build a pro touring type car and install manual steering, maybe in a street rod where they are so light you need a manual rack.
 
I have officially stalled on the project for a while.....

I will definetly be going the RMS route, though I will be ordering early fall.

I have run into a few hiccups:

1. More rust on the chassis than anticipated = much more surgery

2. The vehicle will be moved from my 2 car garage to my fathers shop, as I have zero room to complete everything efficiently

3. Been so busy with work I haven't touched the car since January

4. Starting with a new organization on Monday, and hope to get my evenings and weekends back (except for functions and requirements on a per project basis).


I should start a build thread with everything to today, drip rails are shaved, have one 76 Dart door (still need drivers side),and will be removing the undercoating as soon as it arrives at the shop. Purchased some J-Bars and lower rad support tube.
 
I was also wanting to run my car fairly low, ive decided to go with the RMS Alterkation. Ive talked to Bill Reily (RMS) about the options and what im doing is using the wilwood 2" drop spindles, Bill said this would be ok for a show car, but not a street car as the RMS k member would be far to low to the ground, since i want to drive my car on the street i will cut the cross bar on the K member and raise it 2", this will also do away with the need for the spacers bill uses on the end of his steering arms, i will need to raise the engine in the car (i have a Gen3 Hemi), not sure exatcly how much i will need to raise the motor yet, will likely depend on which sump i go for. Hopefully will find out in the next couple of months all going well.
 
bill and i installed his whole system in my duster last summer. for the last two years i have been finishing in events(autox) with the stock upgraded suspension in the 25-32nd range out of say a 60 car field. also kicking some high end camaro ***. the first run we made with the new suspension was Run Thru the Hills in pigeon forge last sept. no tuning and hardly driving the car on worn out tires we fifnished 12th. i think the suspension speaks for itself. we will be running Goodguys events from charlotte to indy this year along with the Heidts m/c challenge,hopefully the Face Off at road america and some others. i invite anyone with doubts or interested in the system to come out with a helmet and i will give you a ride on the course. just don't scream like a little girl! lol! bill and i are working on some things to make it even better on the track.
 
funkyflynz said:
I was also wanting to run my car fairly low, ive decided to go with the RMS Alterkation. Ive talked to Bill Reily (RMS) about the options and what im doing is using the wilwood 2" drop spindles, Bill said this would be ok for a show car, but not a street car as the RMS k member would be far to low to the ground, since i want to drive my car on the street i will cut the cross bar on the K member and raise it 2", this will also do away with the need for the spacers bill uses on the end of his steering arms, i will need to raise the engine in the car (i have a Gen3 Hemi), not sure exatcly how much i will need to raise the motor yet, will likely depend on which sump i go for. Hopefully will find out in the next couple of months all going well.
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Although this plan is still a million times simpler than a full chassis, be aware beforehand what all this will entail - if you raise the rack 2", you'll also have to raise the engine 2" to keep it off the floor, which you'll also have to raise the trans 2", the exhaust 2", the rear 2"...all this stuff barely clears the floor pans now, so it will all have to be channeled up into the floor. Well, actually just raising the whole tunnel will take care of most of it, but the exhaust will be tricky. Off the shelf headers are out of the question, but custom headers or manifolds could work, maybe coupled with dr gas flattened pipes to keep them off the ground. Keep in mind, our crossbar is the same depth as a factory k frame, and typically other things hang down lower, like transmission and exhaust. It's all inter-related, so it all has to move up or down together. If it was a show or track car you could get away with some things, but on the street you need to have at least 3 inches under the exhaust or you'll be polishing the asphalt - header collectors do not like bridge abutments, I'm sorry to report LOL That doesnt sound bad, but to have 3" of space under 4" collectors, under the floor, you're looking at a minimum of 8" from the ground to the floor pans. Modern cars and most customs have body work that extends down on the sides so the car looks lower but has lots of room underneath. Not so with a stock body classic, so measure lots to be sure you'll be able to drive it over railroad tracks :)

And John, yea I have those items separately. Attaching a pic. I make them up here, so I can do any combination - two tall and two short are a close copy to the factory geometry, or you can do all tall ones or all short ones, with or without the cam bolts included. Or if you just need the little cam bolt flange plates for a rust repair I can just give you those loose instead of welding them to the mounts. The street rodders always get 4 tall ones so they can trim to fit their needs, but our cars would use two of each or four short ones. Give a call or email though, as I dont have them listed on the store anywhere.
 

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abodyjoe said:
how low do you want the car? call and talk to bill directly before you do any more re-engineering of it in your head. he will be more help then anyone here. and you do know that the alter-k doesn't use a mopar style spindle right? your not going to be able to use a magnumforce spindle with it.

the alter-k was designed for handling in the first place. the drag race thing was just an added bonus with it.
Click to expand...

Just what Mopar spindle does it use?
 
Purple Haze said:
Just what Mopar spindle does it use?
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Mustang II spindle, which is just the simplest front-steer spindle with the most brake options. But in this case, the drop spindle he's using is the Wilwood pro-spindle, which is loosely based on the MII so it's mostly interchangable for his needs.
 
Bill_Reilly said:
...be aware beforehand what all this will entail - if you raise the rack 2", you'll also have to raise the engine 2" to keep it off the floor, which you'll also have to raise the trans 2", the exhaust 2", the rear 2".........actually just raising the whole tunnel will take care of most of it, but the exhaust will be tricky. Off the shelf headers are out of the question.....header collectors do not like bridge abutments, I'm sorry to report LOL
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Hey Bill,

Thanks for the info, i know running your system with 2" drop spindles on the street will require quite a bit of work, i pan on raising the trans tunnel so i can raise and offset the motor slightly to the lefthand side (being righthand drive), im hoping i might not need to raise the motor a full 2" yet, im running a taller wheel/tyre front and rear, and modifying a sump might mean a 1.5" raise will give me the ground clearance i need.

I sent you an email about the TTI headers that they make for your RMS system, i heard you helped design them, was just after some info on them regarding if you think they might be ok for a righthand drive car, and what if any clearance there was to the floorpan :help:
 
On the RHD, you're screwed for headers - all of them on the market take up all the space on the right side of the engine in an a-body. You're better off to just avoid the disappointment of modifying $800 headers, and just do custom ones down there once you have all the steering connected.
 
Bill_Reilly said:
On the RHD, you're screwed for headers - all of them on the market take up all the space on the right side of the engine in an a-body. You're better off to just avoid the disappointment of modifying $800 headers, and just do custom ones down there once you have all the steering connected.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info Bill, good to know. I will try the stock SRT headers i have first in case they fit and i can get the steering connected. if not will build my own.

Really impressed with the AlterKation as well, really nice work! The Viking shocks look good too, from what ive read (not much out there) they are very similar to the QA1's, do you prefer the Vikings, or were they just better value?
 
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