Joe Tork
Member
I have a 69 GTS with a 383 which is completely original. What is the correct amperage alternator to use. I'm seeing 35, 45, and 60 amp alternators listed for this car.
Alternator Amperage Question
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1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
If it's completely original, just have yours rebuilt.
Joe Tork
Member
Well thats kind of the problem the alternator is not original and I'm concerned that what is in there is not correct.
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
Might as well put the biggest one you can on it. Really won't hurt anything. I have a Powermaster 60 amp on mine and it works great.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
What the factory used might depend on your car's electrical options (and not the engine). In your points days, I think 35 A was standard, so unless your car had a spotlight or powered convertible top, that is probably what it had. I don't think you can distinguish from the outside, difference was in the stator coils.
60 A shouldn't threaten your wiring if it is pristine. Most aren't, and even a 35 A alt melts the big ALT and BATT feed-thrus once they get a little corrosion (i.e. CT). Clean terminals, read-up on MAD Bypass, etc if you don't want that to happen to you.
60 A shouldn't threaten your wiring if it is pristine. Most aren't, and even a 35 A alt melts the big ALT and BATT feed-thrus once they get a little corrosion (i.e. CT). Clean terminals, read-up on MAD Bypass, etc if you don't want that to happen to you.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Maybe, maybe not
Please READ this article
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
Even if you do not perform this mod, it points up the pitfalls and whys of electrical failures in these systems.
AND Ma KNEW the wiring was marginal. 60-65A optional alternators DID NOT USE the usual factory wiring. Google up "fleet, taxi" wiring some time.
Joe Tork
Member
So should I try a different alternator? Maybe get a 35 or 45 amp? Could this be related to the charging problems I'm having with the lights or heater running?
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
IF the wiring is "as" absolutely like new condition, you will probably get by OK with a 60A so long as you don't have a lot of "big" accessories like big headlights fans, etc.
A 45A would be fine.
REGARDLESS you should take a look at the wiring. Read that MAD article fully. It gives a very very good overview of all of this. The number one big thing is to check the bulkhead connector. Pull the connector sections apart and clean, inspect, repair them at minimum.
Many of these cars have voltage drop issues in the harness due to bad connections and switches. My own 67 had 1.5V drop from the battery to the ignition system. This causes overcharging
A 45A would be fine.
REGARDLESS you should take a look at the wiring. Read that MAD article fully. It gives a very very good overview of all of this. The number one big thing is to check the bulkhead connector. Pull the connector sections apart and clean, inspect, repair them at minimum.
Many of these cars have voltage drop issues in the harness due to bad connections and switches. My own 67 had 1.5V drop from the battery to the ignition system. This causes overcharging
bigtom
Well-Known Member
Wasn't there an article that showed how to add wiring, but not bypass the amp meter? I might need to do that...
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Sort of. If you can find the dope on "fleet" or "taxi" wiring, this is what Mopar did. However, they used separate grommets to add heavier wire through the bulkhead. I'll have to see if I can find it
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