Alternator line up

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It looks like you have an AC water pump pulley (see post 25) and a non-AC crank pulley that includes a groove for power steering.

Here are a set that are stock for a 1970 318&340 - non-AC with PS both the slotted adjuster bar and the outer alternator bracket have a jig in them for proper alignment. looks like your brackets are correct.


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installed next post...
 
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Installed
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This is what I mean about using a level to check alignment at the water pump and crank pulley with a level as a straight edge, flat of the level will lie flat on the alternator pulley face.

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Might work as-shown since V-belts generally allow up to 1/8" axial offset with no problems, but would always bother you. You only need 1 belt on the alternator and water pump, unless using the factory RV2 AC compressor which needs 2 drive belts and the alternator to tension them. Many people use a modern Sanden AC compressor where a single belt suffices. As said, the alternator isn't the problem since same dimensions both early (roundback) and later (squareback), for all engines. A few had a single-groove pulley but most rebuilds have a dual pulley, which is good since allows more axial positioning choices.

Don't be tempted to change to a later aluminum water pump. I did that in my 1965 small-block and caused many problems. A bad choice due to what I could buy at Autozone soon after buying the car. The alum w.p. is 1" thicker, which allowed only a thin nylon fan to give radiator clearance. Also changes the side of the lower radiator hose.

There were many different pulley setups over the years, between different engines and accessories, so quite confusing. As example, I rebuilt the TRW power steering pump on my 1965 small-block, but couldn't use it since no brackets for it with the aluminum water pump, so had to change to a later Federal pump w/ new brackets (Bouchillon Performance sells many brackets). I thought no problem since I'll use that p.s. pump on my 1965 big-block but found the pulley isn't correct and can't swap over the pulley from the big-block TRW pump since it has a thicker shaft. I finally rigged a belt setup which works, though was never a factory design. That is with a Sanden compressor on custom brackets I fabb'ed. In a do-over, I would use the OE cast-iron water pump.
 
I would like to add, high RPM motors need larger diameter pullies. to slow down speed on the accessories or smaller ones on the crank.
 
Might work as-shown since V-belts generally allow up to 1/8" axial offset with no problems, but would always bother you. You only need 1 belt on the alternator and water pump, unless using the factory RV2 AC compressor which needs 2 drive belts and the alternator to tension them. Many people use a modern Sanden AC compressor where a single belt suffices. As said, the alternator isn't the problem since same dimensions both early (roundback) and later (squareback), for all engines. A few had a single-groove pulley but most rebuilds have a dual pulley, which is good since allows more axial positioning choices.

Don't be tempted to change to a later aluminum water pump. I did that in my 1965 small-block and caused many problems. A bad choice due to what I could buy at Autozone soon after buying the car. The alum w.p. is 1" thicker, which allowed only a thin nylon fan to give radiator clearance. Also changes the side of the lower radiator hose.

There were many different pulley setups over the years, between different engines and accessories, so quite confusing. As example, I rebuilt the TRW power steering pump on my 1965 small-block, but couldn't use it since no brackets for it with the aluminum water pump, so had to change to a later Federal pump w/ new brackets (Bouchillon Performance sells many brackets). I thought no problem since I'll use that p.s. pump on my 1965 big-block but found the pulley isn't correct and can't swap over the pulley from the big-block TRW pump since it has a thicker shaft. I finally rigged a belt setup which works, though was never a factory design. That is with a Sanden compressor on custom brackets I fabb'ed. In a do-over, I would use the OE cast-iron water pump.
It's funny you said that...I had read all this stuff about using the newer water pump and such.. The car the motor came from had a passenger side outlet so I ordered accordingly and am having the same issues. No turning back now ...I have a cold case radiator with the outlet on the passenger to match
 
Well, I don't know about your aluminum aftermarket bracket, but all the stock setups I've seen have the alternator mounting ear in front of the bracket.
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Looks like you've got spacers between your bracket and the water pump- I'd ditch the spacers and mount the alternator in front of the bracket; that looks like it would bring things right into alignment.
Your 100% correct I just installed a Power master one wire and had to move it on outside like u have pictured ( stock one was contained within bracket )
Fits perfectly.
 
Ok so I ordered a thermostat and it is to small lol..thats a surprise. What a pain in the .....the 53mm is to small for the LDB4 intake ..Anyone have a lead on the right one or should I just go to napa and play this should work size search... thanks.
 
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