Alternator upgrades

-
B

Brian Hood

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2009
Messages
128
Reaction score
0
I just got a low mi 2001 5.9 magnum. I am retroing it into an 85 d-150. It still has the complete serpentine system in place and works fine. My question is how do i hook up this alternator (its a one wire with two wire in a small plug connector) to my older system? Dr advice please?
Brian
 
it wires up the same as your alternator currently on your truck

large wire of your truck goes to the large wire of the alternator and the two small wires just go on either terminals of the alternator

unless you want to run the MPFI computer then its controlled by the computer
 
same way the original square back was setup. Im assuming the 2001 is still green and white with a blue tracer for the field wires right? if so, one goes to switched power, the other through the regulator as potential to ground. From modding my 73 D100, 74 W100, 66 dart, and 76 cordoba, it really doesnt matter what field gets power and what one gets potential to ground via the regulator. I converted all my squarebacks and one nippondenso unit like yours to a one wire setup, exactly like the powermaster one wire units on summit using a transpo D7014 and a Transpo IN8315 for the nippondenso unit. I did this in my powerwagon, and it seriously simplifies the setup. The nippy internal regulator conversion bolts under the rear stamped tin cover completely hippen and starts charging (cut in RPM to engage charging) continually the first time the engine reaches 1000 rpm after startup.
 
66durgederp said:
same way the original square back was setup. Im assuming the 2001 is still green and white with a blue tracer for the field wires right? if so, one goes to switched power, the other through the regulator as potential to ground. From modding my 73 D100, 74 W100, 66 dart, and 76 cordoba, it really doesnt matter what field gets power and what one gets potential to ground via the regulator. I converted all my squarebacks and one nippondenso unit like yours to a one wire setup, exactly like the powermaster one wire units on summit using a transpo D7014 and a Transpo IN8315 for the nippondenso unit. I did this in my powerwagon, and it seriously simplifies the setup. The nippy internal regulator conversion bolts under the rear stamped tin cover completely hippen and starts charging (cut in RPM to engage charging) continually the first time the engine reaches 1000 rpm after startup.
Click to expand...


your alternator should charge at any RPM if not its draining the battery at idle because most engines idle at 700-750 RPM

the only thing that should increase with RPM is amperage the alternator is capable of producing if need be
 
it does, i was trying to say that the way transpo designed their regulators was that when you first fire up the rig, it wont charge until the engine hits 1000 rpms (in my application) it engages (transpo calls it "cut in" rpm) and will continually charge no mater what rpm its at. Sorry if i was unclear about that....another cool thing about them too is they use a bosch rheostat to adjust max charging voltage. Mine is set at 14.6, at idle it charged a steady 13.1-13.3 and anywhere above 1500 rpm it charges at 14.2-14.6 with all my lights running, stereo going, heater blower motor, and my 16 inch electric fan running. 13.8-14.4ish with only stereo and cooling fan running. i have this setup on a 60 amp squareback because the D7014 was originally designed for a conversion on late 60s/70s delco 60 amp alternators. Originally i ran it on a 78 amp squareback but it stressed the field circuit transistor in the regulator too much, the field circuit was overloading the power supply capabilities to supply a full 78 amps (ideally i need a 100 amp alternator but im still on the hunt for mounting brackets) Granted ive converted my entire charging system with 4 ga stereo cable and bypassed the bulkhead connectors and the ammeter so i wont burn up. I made the D7014 work with the chrysler setup because theyre a B type circuit and the wiring is much cleaner than doing the transpo A circuit version of the D7014, wich is exactly what powermaster uses.
 
I'm not sure I understand the alleged advantage to using these. They don't look "cleaner" to me??

http://store.alternatorparts.com/d7014-12volt-conversion-kit.aspx

d7014.jpg
 
i hear ya, i prefer using stock parts too but in my trucks case i wanted a single wire so handle the excessive loads a little better than the factory units (ie: no surging of voltage, I had 3 original units and 2 aftermarket ones, a wells, and a napa echlin that all did the same thing. When i converted it, problem solved) The D7014 requires some mods obviously, and heres what goes where: Black wire - to ground via mounting screw that holds regulator to case.
Red wire - to output power post
Yellow - to center stud of the diode-trio/rectifier bridge insulator
Green - To field 1 terminal (the second field connector just remove the insulating washer to ground it out)
Orange wire - provides a charge light if you wanted to hook one up.
looks just like this!
418896_10150675275031779_1649860292_n.jpg
 
I have to tell you, 66, that most charging issues ARE NOT caused by the regulator, but rather harness problems as well as poor grounding.

If for example, you hooked that very setup you pictured to an old rig with poor connections in the ammeter/ bulkhead connector circuit, you might just find that it doesn't work very well, either.

Not only that by now you have the regulator VERY close to the headers/ exhaust, and NO "one wire" properly regulates as well as a separate sensing wire UNLESS the charging wire is substantially oversized. If you read Delco's advice on "one wire" setups, they all use pretty big, IE no8 or larger charging wire, even on some of the smaller units.

The further the battery is away from the alternator, the worse this gets.

My other question is, "where do you get these?" If one quits at an inconvenient time, can you get one at NAPA? O'Reallys?
 
67Dart273 said:
I have to tell you, 66, that most charging issues ARE NOT caused by the regulator, but rather harness problems as well as poor grounding.

If for example, you hooked that very setup you pictured to an old rig with poor connections in the ammeter/ bulkhead connector circuit, you might just find that it doesn't work very well, either.

Not only that by now you have the regulator VERY close to the headers/ exhaust, and NO "one wire" properly regulates as well as a separate sensing wire UNLESS the charging wire is substantially oversized. If you read Delco's advice on "one wire" setups, they all use pretty big, IE no8 or larger charging wire, even on some of the smaller units.

The further the battery is away from the alternator, the worse this gets.

My other question is, "where do you get these?" If one quits at an inconvenient time, can you get one at NAPA? O'Reallys?
Click to expand...

You have a good point, but i checked all of those options, 4 gauge ground from the battery straight to the block, 2 inch wide stainless braided strap STRAIGHT to the regulator on the firewall, and a third 4 gauge ground straight to the frame. On the same token, my connections were beautiful at the bulkhead connector and at the ammeter, but i figured id nip it in the *** before it became a problem. So im still a little miffed why all the regulators i tried had a surging problem. I ran the factory type regulator after i did the 4 gauge ammeter bypass and still had the same issue, then the 1 wire was done about a month afterwards. I tested for continuity from the battery post to the block, frame, firewall, inner fenders, and it all came up with unquestionably solid grounds. (i used my craftsman and FLUKE meters just to be damn sure) And for the charging wire, i used the original lead to the ammeter from the alternator to feed my ignition switch and fuse panel from the 80 amp circuit breaker i installed on the firewall. from the alternator, through the circuit breaker, and straight to the battery i used braided 4 gauge fine strand stereo cable, so your point about the big charge wire, done deal. The regulator is about 4.5-5 inches from my manifolds, wich are factory cast, i could see it being a concern with headers that arent wrapped since they run much hotter than cast mannies. The location on the back of the alternator is an advantage because the cooling fins on the stator that are designed to keep the diode trio cool, works to keep the regulator cool as well. As for shutdown and latent heat from the manifolds, the regulator after 15 minutes of sitting is warm to the touch, but never hot. As for availability, that could be questionable. Im lucky because we have a shop here in town, Auto Electric, who rebuilds any and all starters and alternators for a living so for me these are readily available at 40 bucks a piece. The napa version is a VR641 but it comes with the adapter to work with mid 70s and up delco alternators, and isnt very cheap to boot.....so yes that could be a problem for some, but for me, it works great, and for me it was worth my time to do it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top