Alternator wires... melted?

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snailpower

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I recently yanked the original 318 out of my 72 scamp and replaced it with a 360 magnum. I didn't touch any of the (original) wiring and planned to reuse the 60a square back alternator, battery is new within the last 6 mos Optima red top. If it matters I am running an HEI on the stock distributor and not using the ballast or stock coil (has an e coil).

My buddy was the one who pulled the alternator when we did the 360 swap and instead of just undoing the connectors he pulled the brushes out of the alternator for some reason (didn't see the connectors I guess).

So when I hooked the alternator back up i was going by photos putting the brushes back in. to my (non) surprise it wasn't charging when I ran it. I ran it total maybe 30 mins like this and was seeing only around 12.2v at the battery when running, but no melting wires or anything.

My guess and try at a fix today was that the old motor didn't have a ground on the back of the engine to firewall just on the front so I added a ground from the passenger head to the firewall, and one from battery to core support. Along with the one to the front drivers head to the battery.

So today after I did that and inspected / cleaned the brush connections, i started it up and saw a puff of smoke from the engine. I shut it down immediately and the blue wire had already melted through its case and through the tape covering it in probably 30 seconds of run time.

My guess is that looking at the old 318 engine photo there are some "isolators" (maybe plastic washers?) there that got lost some how, and the screws grounded the 2 fields out on the case? would that be correct? Its weird that it didn't do this at first but did it later after I messed with the brushes and added grounds. The brushes didn't seem to fit too well and i did not see these small isolators in the bag for alternator parts we set aside.

So what am I looking at? At least replacing the blue wire which i am guessing goes to the voltage reg, would I need a new voltage reg too? I am picking up a new alternator tomorrow. Should I check for fried wires anywhere else?

Heres the photo version of the story:

Old 318, happily charging, here is the back of the alternator. no problems here.

IMG_2827.JPG


New ground #1, battery to core support (cleaned metal below). the frayed wire in the foreground is a different wire:

IMG_3498.JPG


New ground #2 on firewall to back of passenger head:

IMG_3496.JPG


Melted wires, notice how the screws are not isolated from the case, the brushes sat kind of loose on there.

IMG_3492.JPG


Melted wire:

IMG_3510.JPG


Melted wire:

IMG_3494.JPG
 
First, fix broken wires
Second, look at an engine wiring diagram and make sure it's hooked up correctly.
If it was hooked up correctly just replace the alternator as well as voltage regulator to error on the side of caution. Both are inexpensive. Make sure your voltage regulator has a good ground. I run a ground wire from battery negative to my voltage regulator mount. If your mounting bolts on the voltage regulator are a little stripped just put a small screw directly into the voltage regulator mounting flange to achieve a good ground.
 
First, fix broken wires
Second, look at an engine wiring diagram and make sure it's hooked up correctly.
If it was hooked up correctly just replace the alternator as well as voltage regulator to error on the side of caution. Both are inexpensive. Make sure your voltage regulator has a good ground. I run a ground wire from battery negative to my voltage regulator mount. If your mounting bolts on the voltage regulator are a little stripped just put a small screw directly into the voltage regulator mounting flange to achieve a good ground.

Cool, yeah sounds like what my plan was. Also like the idea of wire from batt ground to voltage reg, will do that.

I have read that some voltage regs can be questionable. whats a good source for a new (made in USA) one?
 
My guess is that looking at the old 318 engine photo there are some "isolators" (maybe plastic washers?) there that got lost some how, and the screws grounded the 2 fields out on the case? would that be correct?


Right there, it's grounded to the case in the right pic because of the missing insulator you see in the left pic.
If it is under there then it doesn't look assembled right.
Regulator might be ok, might not.

compared.JPG
 
^^YUP^^ You can tell without even pulling the alternator. Remove both field wires. Check continuity to ground with a meter. BOTH field terminals should be open "to ground"
 
Right there, it's grounded to the case in the right pic because of the missing insulator you see in the left pic.
If it is under there then it doesn't look assembled right.
Regulator might be ok, might not.

View attachment 1715122946

Ahh crap my suspicions were correct. I didn’t notice the isolators not there until after the wires were damaged when I looked at the older photos. Looking at the service manual shows them as well :( (I blame my buddy who did the disassembly haha)

Any chance the alternator isn’t toast? :BangHead: Worth a shot to maybe find some isolators and give it a shot?
 
It would not have hurt the alternator. Likely "only wiring." Problem is, none of the circuit is fused
 
It would not have hurt the alternator. Likely "only wiring." Problem is, none of the circuit is fused

Ok cool thanks. I will give it a shot to replace the wiring and add the isolators. Will poke around the local O’Reilly and try to find something that will work. Assuming plastic washers are acceptable.
 
"Plastic" ...........Make sure they don't melt from engine heat. Nylon would be OK "Fiber" would be better

I would have suggested you get a brush kit from say, NAPA, but last time I tried this, they did not fit correctly. I finally had to order 2 or 3 kits, rob parts from 2 to make 1, and then told them to turn "what was left" back in as mis-packaged.

Pisses me off. NAPA USED to be a primo parts outfit
 
"Plastic" ...........Make sure they don't melt from engine heat. Nylon would be OK "Fiber" would be better

I would have suggested you get a brush kit from say, NAPA, but last time I tried this, they did not fit correctly. I finally had to order 2 or 3 kits, rob parts from 2 to make 1, and then told them to turn "what was left" back in as mis-packaged.

Pisses me off. NAPA USED to be a primo parts outfit

I actually tried to get a brush kit today at NAPA before all of this happened and it wasn’t in stock. Figured I would mess with the brushes I had before ordering... probably the wrong choice lol.
 
Ahh crap my suspicions were correct. I didn’t notice the isolators not there until after the wires were damaged when I looked at the older photos. Looking at the service manual shows them as well :( (I blame my buddy who did the disassembly haha)

Any chance the alternator isn’t toast? :BangHead: Worth a shot to maybe find some isolators and give it a shot?

The alternator should be fine just get a new set of brushes, there cheap
As far as blaming your friend, I blame my friends for everything that goes wrong, It makes me feel better:lol:
 
Check the wires at the bulkhead connector also
Same thing happened to me years ago with my 70 dart
Isolator was cracked and field wire shorted
Killed my control box
Melted alternator wires and went inside
found melted wires on inside under dash at bulkhead connector
Think it was the middle bank top wires (3 bank bulkhead )
 
I agree that the alternator wasn't affected. The blue wire is 12 V supply, via the bulkhead and key switch. You just shunted the current to gnd, upstream of the alternator's field. Usually most engine wires are old and brittle by now anyway, so would be good to replace all. I ran mine in smooth PVC tubing (SPC Tech, Alpha). Even if you shorted the other field wire (grn, controlled by Vreg), I doubt that would hurt the regulator. Check that both are isolated from gnd w/ a multimeter before trying again (key off, unplug Vreg).
 
I think I solved it today. I spent like an hour and a half cutting sticky old electrical tape off and it looked like it was only burnt up until it was twisted together at a junction by the bulkhead connector. So I replaced the wire and connectors with new and retaped this time with linerless. I had an extra oil pan gasket I cut apart to make isolators out of then fired it up!

It worked! No need for new alternator or voltage reg as of now it’s charging.

Thanks guys! Life saver.
 
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Your wires look nice, not old and friable like my engine bay wires were. Probably best to use split-loom or nylon braid (think chinese finger-puzzle) to repackage them, unless you like the factory vinyl tape look. BTW, the factory tape was non-adhesive. Don't use sticky electrical tape or will make a mess.
 
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