Another 360......

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hotrodder

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Well, weighing out options still.... Started looking at stuff, and am thinking of something like this maybe for a SB 360..... Granting most of my knowledge is in BB than SB, so.... I know yall will have input and ideas of changes or what not..... I'm posting links for better ideas:
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...840106+4294871728+4294858289+115&autoview=sku
In this intake set up's case, will upgrade to 35lb.
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/inedenalhe.html

http://www.speedomotive.com/ps-140-13-mopar-360cid-to-408cid-stroker-kit.aspx

Obviously, not quite a complete motor, missing a few, some important, things, like a cam.... Anyway, just an idea, looking to improve on. If I can go a cheaper route, I'm open to ideas, like I said, I'm fairly new to the SB field. On the other hand, the first link I'd like to stick with, if not that exact one, something similar, and I like the amount of stuff the include in the kit... Yes, this car, '70 Duster, will be on the street. I was concidering a Comp Cams Thumper series, but was told that the FI want work with that cam....
 
It looks like a nice build. Cam choice is like socks and underwear. Your choice on what you want or like. That F.I. set up likes a wide centerline. IE 112 or better IIRC.
I particularly like the Crane roller cams for something like this. I think a roller is worth the expense at what your doing. Broader torque curve, hi lifting cam.

I think the heads are expensive myself. But a moved pushrod is the way to go for biggest power gains. I myself would rather look at a Mopar head than the Edelbrock heads at this level in part because of the cam I'd choose. You would need to remove any stock valve gear from the Edel. head in favor of the matched and better valve controling Crane stuff.
So cost, I think, would be in the Mopar heads favor rather than re-working the Edel. head.

I like the Edel. F.I. except when a change of cams comes in, you need to send the cam card and computer chip out to Edelbrock for programing so it works right.
 
It looks like a nice build. Cam choice is like socks and underwear. Your choice on what you want or like. That F.I. set up likes a wide centerline. IE 112 or better IIRC.
I particularly like the Crane roller cams for something like this. I think a roller is worth the expense at what your doing. Broader torque curve, hi lifting cam.

I think the heads are expensive myself. But a moved pushrod is the way to go for biggest power gains. I myself would rather look at a Mopar head than the Edelbrock heads at this level in part because of the cam I'd choose. You would need to remove any stock valve gear from the Edel. head in favor of the matched and better valve controling Crane stuff.
So cost, I think, would be in the Mopar heads favor rather than re-working the Edel. head.

I like the Edel. F.I. except when a change of cams comes in, you need to send the cam card and computer chip out to Edelbrock for programing so it works right.


I had already e-mailed Edelbrock about this setup before I posted this thread, and heard back from them prior also. This is what they said:

The Pro-Flow #3526 system will support between 450
to 480HP as delivered and with a change to 35lb/hr
injectors could support between 560 to 590HP. The
change to the 35lb/hr injectors would be $40.00 and
is done after you receive the system. When you buy
the system you take the 29lb/hr injectors out and
return them with a check for $40.00 or a Visa or MC.
Here is the only bad news for you the Comp Cam you
are interested have a very narrow lobe separation
angle so they do not work very well with any FI.You
might want to look at our RPM cam that has plenty
of lumpy lump and will make good power in your 408
part #7177 234 Int and 244 Exh on a 112 LS.

I think, being Edelbrock, they will be buyest to there products, so I'd imgaine that they would recommend there RPM heads.... So I want even go to them and ask about best heads.... I, personaly, would rather have a non-buyest opinion and hear from people that run, and have run different setups. They have good stuff and all, but in some areas, there are better things out there...

As for Mopar heads, gonna need some input, the only set that I've looked at threw Mopar is there BB Stage 6 (new casting) heads.... That's about it. I'll start this one off at this link:
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/aenrecyhe2in.html
And go from there. Like I said, if I can save some money, any where and every where throughout this Duster project, I'll go for it, lol. After all, two projects.... But I will probably make my '72 Charger the long term project being more rare than the Duster, heck, the Charger has the fender tags, lol. Anyway, like I did, originaly, with the Charger, I'm not setting any numbers for the motor, but I do want it to really move. The Charger will be the cruising car (383 crate motor I'm looking into for it will be 500/530 so it will move too), and the Duster will be the upsetter. I am wanting to swap the rear axle to an 8 3/4 with a 3.91 SG, maybe 4.10, and if I can, run a built A-518 behind it for the O.D. The should help a bit. I do plan on running TTI's, but if I can find a comparable set, for less, once again, see above... I figure the SB stroker motor would be better for ramp speed on the street than a BB, as far as costs, kind of a toss up I guess between the SB and BB.... Each has there advantages and disadvantages. I feel the SB would be a better choice for several reasons. The 360 b/c there are so many versus any other motor, at least around here that is. Price, heck $125 for a complete 360 (needing rebuilt of course.....) come on now. And they said they have several of them... Anyway. I'll have my SB car, and my BB car. The SB will, or should, be easier to work on, clearance wise than the BB. Ect. Anyway, I'll continue later on, just trying to give a better idea. Also, I'm gonna try and keep the weight down as much as possible with this car, so.... I plan on going to a fibergalss hood with six pack scoop for better air cleaner clearance, and looks. Anyway, bring on the questions, comment, concerns.
 
This head... Is not what I would be looking at.

On a stroker, I myself would look at the BP Comandos.


BP Comandos? Remember, I know a little more about big blocks, than small blocks, if you said bull dog track dog heads, then.... I'd know what you'd be talking about, of course, those heads are unfortanatly no longer available, the company shut down. Sad. Anyway....:glasses2:
 
Truthfully I think if your goal is 500+ horsepower, the BP Commandos ("B"ig "P"ort Mopar Perfomance "Commando" heads...lol) might not have enough without a little work. Because of the limited EFI (meaning lack of real adjustability like a FAST system or something similar) I think you'll be upgrading the ehads just to be able to run a milder cam and make that power. EFI doesnt make power, it makes power more driveable. So, you can runa head that needs more cam to make popwer, but your EFI wont run rigth. Or, you can run a better sutted head with a asmaller cam. Personaly, I think I'd get a better egnien management system, and then build whatever you want, and tuen it. Then anything can be done.
 
MoPer is right about cylinder head work on the BP Comandos. They do need some chamber help OOTB and minor porting in the ports.
They'll flow like mad though.
 
Sounds good and all, but still, I've never heard of them, nor do I know where to start looking for them..... Any ideas? :( :toothy9:
 
Sounds good and all, but still, I've never heard of them, nor do I know where to start looking for them..... Any ideas? :( :toothy9:

From who now? Mancini? About the heads?

The Comandos have been out for a while now. There not widely used. As normal, people find out that there product(s) work really well a bit to late. When they finally move to get them, there out of production.

Poor advertisment, past problems with other material and sometimes slow to correct them and generally, higher priced keeps people away from Mopar parts.

Other companys, like Edelbrock, Holley, etc.. will spend lots of money so you will see there name, and often. You tend to remember the name morethan anything along with there latest sales pitch, TV advertisment, catch phrase and pictures and graphs they show.

Ya wanna know what works? Look & ask the true racers at the track everyweek.

Price breaks from Mopar can be had if you can talk to them and convince/ask/argue nicely for a better price. I get a good discount through my club. Ask your club P.I. man to ask around for a discout for club members.

I'm paying 10% over cost on most items.
(Screw list price!)
 
Folks, what do you think of the old style W2s? They were called "Basics" back then (cast iron race heads) and utilize the rocker arm stands, banana groove shafts, long valves, bushed ductile rocker arms, etc. Do you think that it is worth to go through them (they have very, very low miles on them)? and use them on a stroker? They have been mildly ported as well. I all ready have the W2 intake manifold and headers. If I wanted to stay with a W2 setup, would it be wiser to just go with a newer casting? TIA.
 
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