Any A-518 transmission Darts in here ?

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draginmopars

draginmopars

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What rear gear are you running
for street/ strip

we got the trans in
just need to finish the trans mount fabrication


I was trying to decide between 3.55 and 4.10
because that's the gears we got

Found a Dana 60 with 3.73 ratio out of a ford van
was thinking about narrowing it to put in the 72 dart

running a 26 x 12.5-15 tire


Thanks
 
All depends on what the engine likes. What cubic inch is it (273, 416, 500)? What cam are you running in it? What's the compression ratio?
 
fishy68 said:
All depends on what the engine likes. What cubic inch is it (273, 416, 500)? What cam are you running in it? What's the compression ratio?
Click to expand...

Was going to put the 449 (small block) with indy heads in

Now, going a different direction> more street friendly

340- 9.64 compression
ported edenbrock heads
E-85 fuel
3000 converter

Here is the project in question

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=296750
 
I've run with 3.91 gears in my daily '73 Dart with a 518OD transmisison.
Great for cruising around in town, but sometimes almost too much for longer highway use.
Am now running a 3.55.
 
My Dak has an A-518 with 3:55's. Great acceleration from a stock 5.2, great on the highway, but still nets only 16mpg :-(
 
Being I only do 10-20 min. trips at a time in and around town, I'm only managing 10-11mpg with my Dart.
Pretty lousy, mostly because of the lame 8.6:1cr in the 318ci.

For a 'weakish' smog-engine, a A500 would be a way better choice imo.
 
First you have to figure out where your engine gets the best mileage now. Between speed and the rpm. Then find the gear ratio that will keep the engine in its happy place. (rpm)
The final drive ratio with the O.D. Math works like this;

4.10 X .69 = 2.82 final drive ratio.

If your ride likes to spin @ 2800 rpm with the current tire diameter, you will then need to find a gear ratio with the final drive ratio in O.D. To keep the engine spinning at this rpm to get the max mileage. The engine is most mileage effecient at peak torque.
 
Currently I'm running 3.55s with my A-518/360 combo. (Using 26" Mickey Thompson Street Radials)

I don't drive it all the time, but when I do, there's a good amount of highway time involved. It's nice to keep up with traffic and only turn 2200 rpms. :D
 
rumblefish360 said:
The engine is most mileage effecient at peak torque.
Click to expand...

I don't agree what that statement.
The lowest rpm where the engine doesn't have to work is most efficient at cruising speeds; iow; highest vacuum.
Only during acceleration (which should be kept as short as possible) the rpm is best kept at max torque and not exceed the max hp rpm range.
 
I've never looked into this. My son put a A-518 in his B-body. When he was researching the procedure for his B-body, he read that you have to modify the tunnel quite a bit to put one in an A-body. Is that true?

I know the cross member has to be modified but never looked into it otherwise.
 
I remember seeing weld-in plates for the crossmember, and I'd probably buy a set if I could find them.
 
Robj said:
I've never looked into this. My son put a A-518 in his B-body. When he was researching the procedure for his B-body, he read that you have to modify the tunnel quite a bit to put one in an A-body. Is that true?

I know the cross member has to be modified but never looked into it otherwise.
Click to expand...

Since we are also running a Trans safety shield

the floor had to go up one inch for clearance
that would have left a gap between the floor and cross member

wanting to keep all the cross member we could
we raised the cross member with the floor

a bit more work, but
happy with the results

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=296750

025.jpg


039.jpg
 
You can add a bit more rigidity by welding the floorboards to the crossmember on the front and the rear over the entire width of the body.
 
BigBlockMopar said:
You can add a bit more rigidity by welding the floorboards to the crossmember on the front and the rear over the entire width of the body.
Click to expand...


thanks, i agree.

the pics don't show the spot welds every well

What i was doing was applied pressure to the floor,
to get a snug fit/tight spot weld.
first mig welded from the bottom, on the frame rails,
then on top could then see where the frame really was.
then spot welded between those areas.
then a combination of spot welds and mig welds around the perimeter

sjytyi.jpg



mghy.jpg
 
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