Any experience with these (inexpensive) Sure Grip units?

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MechNerd

I can fix stupid, but it's gonna hurt...
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Yeah, I bought one. Good price on Ebay. Of course it's Chinesium. Anybody have any experience with them, good, bad or otherwise?

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I'm curious too.
What did you end up paying for it and is it a clutch type or a cone type?
 
That's a clutch type.
Before I did any setup, I'd put bearings on it, put it in a naked case, and check ring gear runout. (With a dial indicator)
I believe factory spec for a factory carrier is around .001. I sure would like to see less than. 004.

Edit: I believe Dr Diff sells those as well, with upgraded internals and clutches.
 
I was about a day away from buying one of those when I found a rebuilt "old" clutch type for about $20 more locally. I will be watching this because if it works out for you, I will end up getting one in the future
 
That's a clutch type.
Before I did any setup, I'd put bearings on it, put it in a naked case, and check ring gear runout. (With a dial indicator)
I believe factory spec for a factory carrier is around .001. I sure would like to see less than. 004.

Edit: I believe Dr Diff sells those as well, with upgraded internals and clutches.
It's gonna be going in the case as soon as I get the bearing kit from Cass. I'll check runout and get back to everyone.
 

Luckily I have access to a lathe if it is out .
The materials and machine work on these are relatively simple. I am sure Dana has 900% markup on them .
 
The single most important question is how strong the metal is... we have factory Powr lok sure grips pushing 70 years old and still holding up.
 
500 foot pounds of torque and a set of good drag radials to let you know if it's any good pretty quick. :lol:
Luckily I'm only guessing maybe 350-400 ft/lbs., so if it's close to concentric and decent metal it will be fine.
 
You can get away with a lot with mamby pamby tires spinning but slap a couple dead hooks to that Mama and well that's literally where the rubber meets the road.
 
i did order one of these units when they first hit the market , to see what they are like as the price is unbelievable and being a Chinese knock off they have flooded the market ,, the unit itself looks ok , runout came in at 0.0015 so good there ,, BUT ,,, i notice that there is no HEAT TREAT ( case hardening ) on the case where the cross pins sit in the ramps to reduce wear at those 4 points which the factory cases and better aftermarket units have , and upon taking it apart the clutches used look crude as there is a lot of mill scale from heat treat on them NOT SMOOTH like the factory clutches or even the replacement Mopar Performance clutches or the Spicer kits ,, the turning torque for the unit was at 100 lbs/feet so the clutches may not last as the heat treat may be off. as far as the side gears and spider gears they look good but are they heat treated properly , who knows ,,,,, i build a lot of differentials and use the better units , pricier , but i am more comfortable with them. so i RETURNED the Chinese unit ,, price wise they can't be beat but will they last in a car that is driven a little more robustly , time will tell i guess.
 
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Screw the runout, what the hell did they cast that out of, failed hopes and dreams? I've seen better cast iron produced at a Renaissance Fair.

I get it that these are expensive parts, but are you really willing to trash a ring and pinion and bearings and possibly a housing because Yang Lau didn't think some sand floating in the cast iron was a problem?

Jeez man, a fool and a money. Seriously, look at the machined surfaces.....what cutting tools are they using? Broken beer bottles?

Look at the difference in machining, material uniformity, casting precision, etc....
Look at where the bearings press on. Look at the smoothness of the as-cast surfaces.
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Good price on eBay? Nooooo. Bad price on utter garbage.
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