Any experience with these (inexpensive) Sure Grip units?

[MechNerd]

Screw the runout, what the hell did they cast that out of, failed hopes and dreams? I've seen better cast iron produced at a Renaissance Fair.

I get it that these are expensive parts, but are you really willing to trash a ring and pinion and bearings and possibly a housing because Yang Lau didn't think some sand floating in the cast iron was a problem?

Jeez man, a fool and a money. Seriously, look at the machined surfaces.....what cutting tools are they using? Broken beer bottles?

Look at the difference in machining, material uniformity, casting precision, etc....
Look at where the bearings press on. Look at the smoothness of the as-cast surfaces.
View attachment 1716357132

Good price on eBay? Nooooo. Bad price on utter garbage.

And the Eaton part is made in Taiwan. I feel better now.

 

[jos51700]

And the Eaton part is made in Taiwan. I feel better now.

Is that sarcasm? I've seen braille that's smoother than the machining on that thing you bought. I'm going to give you the benefit of the doubt that the seller stole a picture off the internet instead of using a picture what you were actually buying.

 

[Big.J.007]

It's not about where it's made it's about the quality it is made to.. 2 of the same items can be made from China with vastly different quality control. I'm sure you've heard of seconds, these may be the rejects. It is very much a buyer beware, as they say to buy once cry once. You really do get what you pay for.

And the Eaton part is made in Taiwan. I feel better now.

 

[jos51700]

It's not about where it's made it's about the quality it is made to.. 2 of the same items can be made from China with vastly different quality control. I'm sure you've heard of seconds, these may be the rejects. It is very much a buyer beware, as they say to buy once cry once. You really do get what you pay for.

I'm pretty sure OP's parts came from the QC rejects at the counterfeiter.

 

[Andrew vanman87]

My guess they won't hold up to anything compared to the original sure grip units... I would guess maybe one used on the street with a pretty close to stock set up might last longer ( in theory) but I stick to the OEM stuff ... I really only prefer the clutch type OEM sure grip units ... I don't even like the cone style ones... There ok for the street but nothing super crazy in power... I have cone style in 2.76 no issues but it's not something I beat on on a track or something

 

[cosgig]

None for me thanks, I’m driving!

 

[mopowers]

Has anyone ever actually used one? That's who I'd want opinions from.

 

[Andrew vanman87]

I have a friend of mine that did I'll try to drag up the pictures of it... The internals did break.. however he was using it on the drag strip.... If I can find the pictures I'll post them for you guys but that was his results from a Chinese sure grip ... Fluke possibly... But I'm skeptical

 

[Killer6]

The average car with relatively stock size skins in Goodrich T/A's grip range & an automatic, perfect way to save some bread,........ 4-gear/sticky meats/serious oats underhood.....not a chance.

 

[RustyRatRod]

The single most important question is how strong the metal is... we have factory Powr lok sure grips pushing 70 years old and still holding up.

.....AND still in good operating condition! Still leavin two black marks!

 

[RustyRatRod]

It's not about where it's made it's about the quality it is made to.. 2 of the same items can be made from China with vastly different quality control. I'm sure you've heard of seconds, these may be the rejects. It is very much a buyer beware, as they say to buy once cry once. You really do get what you pay for.

Sloppy seconds.

 

[cli55er]

You get what you pay for… there are no cheap speed parts.

 

[jos51700]

You get what you pay for… there are no good cheap speed parts.

I fixed that for you.

 

[cli55er]

Yes that’s better. Thanks lol

 

[Dartswinger70]

You get what you pay for… there are no cheap speed parts.

Uncle Tony and his ilk need to heed this...

 

[MechNerd]

UPDATE- I said I would check runout when I got it together, so here it is. .00125, back edge of the ring gear. That said, I used my Harbor Freight magnetic dial indicator, so....

 

[mopowers]

UPDATE- I said I would check runout when I got it together, so here it is. .00125, back edge of the ring gear. That said, I used my Harbor Freight magnetic dial indicator, so....

Harbor Freight makes a dial indicator that measures to a hundred-thousandth of an inch (i.e., .0000X")??

 

[RustyRatRod]

Harbor Freight makes a dial indicator that measures to a hundred-thousandth of an inch (i.e., .0000X")??

Yup.

 

[Cuprum-74]

Spendy, but I paid $572 for this in 2021 for my 8.75. One of the local drivetrain specialists recommended it to me. He told me to avoid buying the cheap Ebay junk, he's been in business over 30 years and also builds racing units, so I took his advice.
Auburn Gear Inc 546051 Auburn Gear Grip-N-Loc Differentials | Summit Racing

The Richmond 3.55 10 spline ring & pinion I bought was $271 back then as well.

 

[gzig5]

Harbor Freight makes a dial indicator that measures to a hundred-thousandth of an inch (i.e., .0000X")??

Maybe, but not with accuracy or precision.

 

[MechNerd]

Maybe, but not with accuracy or precision.

Speaking of accuracy and precision, has anyone checked runout on on any of the "preferred" Sure Grip manufacturers units? I'd like to see if they're as well machined as everyone thinks they are.

 

[jos51700]

UPDATE- I said I would check runout when I got it together, so here it is. .00125, back edge of the ring gear. That said, I used my Harbor Freight magnetic dial indicator, so....

Space shuttle precision, eh? Mind posting a picture of your indicator? I have a buddy in DOGE that's looking to save NASA some money.

That's the ring gear. How flat is the surface it's bolted to?

Yup.

Link? Only seeing thousandths (0.001") on their website. Or are you interpolating between lines?

Speaking of accuracy and precision, has anyone checked runout on on any of the "preferred" Sure Grip manufacturers units? I'd like to see if they're as well machined as everyone thinks they are.

There's more to it than accuracy of machining, Mechnerd. I've machined Chinese castings with bolts, sand, cracks, and cavities in them. I've seen Chinese counterfeit materials that weren't even in the same family of materials that they claimed to be due to alloying issues (aluminum advertised as bronze, cast iron advertised as stainless steel). I've seen falsified X-ray certs, warranty cards with no filing addresses, and just plain TRASH come out of these foundries.

I'm not saying it won't work, and I'd love to be wrong on this, but I'm not hopeful for what you want to be true about this, and I'm very skeptical that someone that owns a dial indicator that reads hundred-thousandths of an inch would try to run this for a second. (Let's get real for a minute, most CNC machines are set up to 0.0005"). I have worked in a machine shop that produced cert'd equipment and parts for aerospace, and they didn't have indicators that would read that.

I'm even more skeptical that a machined surface that's visibly that rough would be comprised of quality materials and manufacturing. To be fair, I can JB weld a ring gear to a rock and set it up to turn within a couple thou. Doesn't mean the rock is the right part for the job or is going to hold up.

If this diff goes in and lasts for 100k miles, I'll be damned impressed. If 75 percent of them produced do that, then I'll admit you were right. You have to remember, it's not about getting one part to do the job. It's about getting most of them to do the job. But, bolt it in. Let's see how it does!

 

[MechNerd]

Space shuttle precision, eh? Mind posting a picture of your indicator? I have a buddy in DOGE that's looking to save NASA some money.

That's the ring gear. How flat is the surface it's bolted to?


Link? Only seeing thousandths (0.001") on their website. Or are you interpolating between lines?



There's more to it than accuracy of machining, Mechnerd. I've machined Chinese castings with bolts, sand, cracks, and cavities in them. I've seen Chinese counterfeit materials that weren't even in the same family of materials that they claimed to be due to alloying issues (aluminum advertised as bronze, cast iron advertised as stainless steel). I've seen falsified X-ray certs, warranty cards with no filing addresses, and just plain TRASH come out of these foundries.

I'm not saying it won't work, and I'd love to be wrong on this, but I'm not hopeful for what you want to be true about this, and I'm very skeptical that someone that owns a dial indicator that reads hundred-thousandths of an inch would try to run this for a second. (Let's get real for a minute, most CNC machines are set up to 0.0005"). I have worked in a machine shop that produced cert'd equipment and parts for aerospace, and they didn't have indicators that would read that.

I'm even more skeptical that a machined surface that's visibly that rough would be comprised of quality materials and manufacturing. To be fair, I can JB weld a ring gear to a rock and set it up to turn within a couple thou. Doesn't mean the rock is the right part for the job or is going to hold up.

If this diff goes in and lasts for 100k miles, I'll be damned impressed. If 75 percent of them produced do that, then I'll admit you were right. You have to remember, it's not about getting one part to do the job. It's about getting most of them to do the job. But, bolt it in. Let's see how it does!

I'm in no way trying to say that this Chinese piece of equipment is made as well as any other piece. What I do believe is that it will perform perfectly well in the application I intend to use it for. 800 rwhp and slicks? Probably twist it up like a noodle. My street rat mobile? Won't even flinch.