I believe that means they wouldn't care, but as in how they wouldn't care. Hopefully meaning they would gladly come b.s.. But could be they wouldn't be polite also.
We used to go by the auto body shop long before they were Graveyard cars cause we would see a 67 Plymouth GTX out front on main st. The owner of the GTX was a nice guy (Royal I think), and even the annoying fellow (Daren) from the earlier seasons was nice. But Mark geez he’s just a jerk we were in early 20s, he wouldn’t give us the time of day to even chat about anything.
Here you go: West Coast Mopar Show Coombs BC May 3 Mopars Unlimited Yakima Show - Union Gap June 14 Mopar Madness - Langley BC show and swap July 12 Woodburn Northwest Mopar Nationals - car show, drags, swap meet July19th Mopar Magic All Around Mopars show (my club) Bremerton WA July 26th Summer Sizzler - Mopars Unlimited Northwest show - Oak Harbor WA August 9 ( big all makes show there the day before - 2 fer one!) Sunbust - Mopars Unlimited Tacoma Graham WA August 16th All of the above are MOPAR ONLY EVENTS One all makes show that you should experience at least once is the Rod Run to the End of the World in Ocean Park on the Washington Long Beach Peninsula. People start to show up on Thursday, there is a slow Drags in Ilwaco on Friday night and the show is all day Saturday and most of Sunday. I'd say about 900 cars at the show (all car over 30 years old) and twice that many cool cars on the peninsula for the weekend. Miles of cruising that can get as wild as you have a taste for. They close the show grounds at night so all these cars are on the street. There is just nothing like it anywhere else in the Pacific Northwest.
I was reading your posts and I have a couple of questions. One is why the the flat tappet cam? I roller cam will make more manifold vacuum for street use and more power. The other question I have yet to see any motor with over 11 to 1 scr that doesn't ping on the street. It will run on premium, but it will beat itself to death under load. As far as cam advancement anything more than 4 degrees will start to cause other issues. I have been building stroker Mopar engines for over 20 years and have seen a lot of issues that were caused and what had to be done to correct them. Now if you are going to just race it the combination looks decent, but you are leaving some on the table with a flat tappet cam. As far as Woodburn I have been attending for over 25 years every year. I do not do car shows, but I do race my 68 Dart every chance I get with a 340, with mufflers, DOT rear tire at 10:30's 128 mph and it is still street legal. But with 13.5 scr and 114 fuel I do not drive around on the street much.
Thanks Ken, that's alot to respond too, I'll get back to you asap after work.,I'm looking forward to talking with you.
No, I don't think so. I have some from Mission BC where I usually race. I will have to figure out how to post them. NWdart from Friday Harbor has a picture of his Dart. That has one of my 340's and 904 tans I did for him, his motor is the same short block as mine. He is in the 9:70's
Yes I see Northwest Dart there each year along with his brother who are a couple great men to talk to and be around... I have pictures and videos of his car for sure! For whatever reason this last year I wanted to see his new trick flow heads but never thought to have him open up the hood... on my phone at any rate just below the post reply button there's an upload photos that takes me over to my photo gallery and I can just pick out a picture and and push done and it will load up and then you push on the button to make it go on to the Post...
I do not have any pictures on this computer. If there are pictures out there then someone else took them. Kinda hard to drive and take pictures. Anyway we are always parked together at Woodburn. Mine is the blue 68 Dart with with white stripe across the back. We both made it to the quarterfinals both of us red lit.
hi Ken, so I chose a solid flat tappet cam & edm lifters for my budget. Basically my decision was based on reading alot. I reached out for king county based mopar guys now because I don't have any mopar friends or people to possibly get advice from. There's a couple guys I know but I don't think they've ever done stroker big blocks. Anyways I talked over my build with Eric @ howards cams & this was his suggestion after giving him my details & did tell me that this cam would work great with the compression. But got conflicting info from Hughes engines. They also sell the same cam but he said I should be at 12.5:1 & 93 would be fine. So there's where my confusion is. Now my block hasn't been machined yet & if it is @9.980 & flat it will be .002 below but I'm assuming ill atleast have to have that .002 milled so it will be atleast .000, I have the .039 felpro head gaskets suggested by trick flow & yet to cc the chambers on them, theyre advertised @ 78 but...? The radiator is aluminum 4 core, basically everything but the short block is aluminum. The lowest scr with my components is 11.29, I can go up or down with gaskets I guess.
The main problem is the oil we use today. I had a small block we ran in a dragster with solid tappet flat tappet cam with EDM lifters and because he did not use Zinc additive in the race oil the cam was gone in 50 passes. The oil advertised having zinc, but not enough. The cam was broken in on my run stand and all the cam break in procedures were followed. Plus what you are giving up in performance it does not make sense to use a flat tappet cam in today's world. I do almost all stroker motors both big block and small block MOPAR and I do not use flat tappet cams. The reason they are telling it will run on pump gas the cam is bleeding off compression pressure in the cylinder because the duration at.050. The motor under 3000 will be slow, but above that it will come alive. This purely a race cam. With the converter you stated that it will work with that cam so it will idle at about 1200 RPM at a stop light. Now the downside you will need to get the biggest trans cooler you can find because it will never lockup under 4000 rpm and it will generate a ton of heat. This because it will be always slipping. Been down this road before. I used FELPRO gaskets for 30 years mostly because there was nothing else and after some time I would see the same failures between the cylinders. For the last 8 years I have used Cometic multi layer gaskets and have never had a failure. In one instance do to a internal oil leak I reused the gasket 4 times and it lived the entire race season. You did not state what you are using for ignition, carb, fuel system, rear gear, rear tire size. Are you installing a trans brake? How much time on the track or on the street. These are some other items to consider when working out a combination for the car. Exactly what do you want the car to do and will this combination you have so far get you there. Oh by the way my 340 is actually 430 inches in a '70 block.
I agree with everything you say about the characteristics of the cam being a race Cam and not coming alive till 3 k but I'm not quite sure why you're so hard on solid lifter cams? Myself I've had no issues with my solid lifter cam but I do use penngrade oil..
I have a msd 6al box, billet distributor. For now I have a 830 cfm holley classic hp & will run a fuel cell & red or blue holley pump. I plan on putting a 850 base plate on the 830 & tinker with it a little. My plan with the car is a drive to track & home type car. Eventually it will just be a race car hooker super comp 2 inch primary ceramic coated fenderwell headers Gears; I have a 489 case with 3.91 gears & 28 inch tires yet to purchase those. 15×10 weld draglites. With the cam choice I was lucky to be matched to my trick flow valve springs
I'm not sure if it's called penn grade or grade penn LOL I used their break in oil and exclusively have used it since with no issues...
I'm sure there's plenty of other good oils and some just use a zinc additive to Walmart oil.. it's just what I have personal experience with and had no problems like I stated..
