it was my understanding that the length of the stroke starts heating up duration as opposed to cubic inches. But it's an inheritance that the bigger the stroke the bigger the cubic inches...

 

30 cubic inches isn't going to change much. When we get up over 500 inches start to change, but not as much as you would think. I have found on the 572 inch stuff i can get away with about 15 - 20 degrees of more duration at .050. But it depends on whether it is auto or manual. Manual we can get away with more, but with auto it depends on the automatic. Now with the newer overdrive trans and lock up converters we can get away with it like a manual. But that is not usually available for Mopar. Now most of the engines over 525 I have built have been race motors so we were looking at power levels at the end of the quarter mile and how much torque off the starting line. More duration at .050 less torque on the bottom, higher operation range.
With most street use converters are usually rated at under 3000 rpm. On engines under 500 inches I do not like more than 230 - 235 degrees at .050 with a installed centerline of 108 on a 110 ground cam with a carburetor. Fuel injection is different because of a wider lobe center.
Like I asked in the thread before there is a lot more info that would be needed to come up with the proper combination. I usually set down and get everything else figured out and then I try and find the cam I need or have one ground for a particular combination. For instance my street car is a 72 Challenger I have had since 78. When I rebuilt the car I stroked the motor to 416 inches with a extremely light rotating assy. I rebuilt the stock converter and figured out tire and gear and what RPM that i wanted to go down the freeway. I had a solid roller cam ground to my spec. On the chassis dyno it made 410 hp and 485 ft pounds of torque. It idles at 850 at the stop light and is very drivable on the road. Now it peek HP at 5800 and torque at 4500. For street car it will spin the tires in any gear (P295R50 -16) at anytime I want. But is a street car that weighs 3600 lbs. When cars are that heavy you need torque to move them.
The reason I was commenting is I see people all the time spend a lot of money on a engine or something else and find it doesn't perform any better than it did if they had done something simple. As I was reading your thread you were concentrating on the cam, but there is a lot of other things that need to be looked at before deciding on a camshaft. The guys selling the cams should have been asking the same questions that I am.
As far as Pennzoil, if you have ever torn apart an engine that has run Pennzoil and one that has run on Castrol or Valvoline VR1 you would see why I do not run Pennzoil. They have the same Zinc issue as everybody else. Pollution controlled engine oils cannot have Zinc in the oil do to it kills the catalytic converters.

 

Look at this way. On my small blocks I am up 90 cubic inches, but the duration on the cam for street use will stay about the same. I have gone 3.31" to 4.125" stroke and the duration at .050 maybe go up from 228 to 232. The factor that will be the same is the top end(heads,intake,carb) If you go really big ported heads to make the motor work, you loose port velocity and the motor is a dog under 3000 rpm. This all comes back to how every component works together.

 

I would be more than happy to meet with you. I am just off the I-5/ 405 interchange in the north end. I have a shop at my house, so if your interested we can get together. I happen to like the 400 blocks better. I built my son a 400 with a 4.150 Molnar crank. It worked out to be 512 with a a roller cam makes over 600lbs of torque to move his Charger and idles at 850 rpm. Send me your phone number and we will talk.

 

Don't post your name and phone number up on an open forum.. just press on his picture and send a personal message...

 

You can just push the edit button and take it off..

 

LOL rookie mistake on my part I quoted that so I have to edit my quote LOL...

 

Could be because it's true... I mean there's someone always faster so no sense in trying to make claims like that....

 

It's just @318willrun and I having our normal internet wiseguy discussion... According to the Wallace calculator he has over optimized his car and I have under optimized mine...

 

I've had mine for 5 years now and have not regretted one dime I've spent on it. It feels great and is quite a bit of fun...

 

Also there's dozens of guys in the building their engine stage and some of its doing it for many years so you're doing just fine...

 

I would say at least 50% of my customers are the same thing. They collect parts and collect Parts but never get anything put together...

 

I didn't read through the whole thread, but I don't use Wallace calculator very often. Long before there was a internet, people were dividing the 1320 by their MPH to see potential and to see how efficient their cars worked.