Any one interested in the oiling mods I did?

Small Block Mopar Engine

  1. Duane

    Duane Well-Known Member

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    I have the pics here on a PDFs file . If anyone wants the file just pm me with your email.
     
  2. Duane

    Duane Well-Known Member

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    He feels the slotting of the bearings and the block to be the most important mod.
     
  3. Duane

    Duane Well-Known Member

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    Not to criticize but you should ask yourself why Sanborn did not front oil his blocks the way you are. In one of his post he says the stock filter adapter is very restrictive. He also likes the $100.00 nascar filter. As was said earlier, you cannot get the results just doing certain parts of the mods. Those nascar ph6 filters are huge, but they flow oil.
     
  4. Duane

    Duane Well-Known Member

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    My take on the oiling system crossover tube for the small block
    Post 391.
     
  5. gregcon

    gregcon Well-Known Member

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    In looking at Sanborn's front feed, I see too many sharp turns and fittings that are too small. He 'might' have a generous supply going into feed line but the feed line itself is too small. He doesn't show his supply so I don't know what it is. The front feed on mine will come from the short 17/32" galley that feed the rear main....that's as generous as you can get without going to extremes. What I'm getting at is in addition to having to cut a hole in his block, he's probably feeding the front with less oil than I am.

    I do believe in keeping oil runs as short as possible. Yet another reason I am trying to avoid a remote filter or external lines.

    I haven't settled on filtration yet...I haven't looked into it fully. I looked and the PH6 filter appears to be a swimming pool filter(?). If it's too large, though, then it becomes one of many great ideas that fall by the wayside...if it doesn't fit 'under the hood' it doesn't make the cut.
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2020
  6. Shorty Medlock

    Shorty Medlock Roads Scholar

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    sanborn mopar oil mods 1.jpg sanborn mopar oil mods 2.jpg sanborn mopar oil mods 3.jpg sanborn mopar oil mods 4.jpg sanborn mopar oil mods 5.jpg sanborn mopar oil mods 7.jpg sanborn mopar oil mods 8.jpg sanborn mopar oil mods 9.jpg sanborn mopar oil mods 10.jpg sanborn mopar oil mods 11.jpg


    SAome of these are Charles Sanborns...other are from Cageman and, maybe, 340king from that orum and others. I think Cageman is a member here. Anyway these pix explain a lot that the text just can't do without photos.
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2020
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    • Shorty Medlock

      Shorty Medlock Roads Scholar

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      sanborn mopar oil mods 11.jpg sanborn mopar oil mods 12.jpg sanborn mopar oil mods 13.jpg sanborn mopar oil mods 14.jpg

      318 drill main galleries.jpg

      318 oil mod one.jpg

      318 oil mod three.jpg

      318 oil mod two.jpg

      318 oil mods 340 king.jpg

      318 oil mods by cageman.jpg
       
    • Shorty Medlock

      Shorty Medlock Roads Scholar

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      318 OIL MODS filter boss.jpg 318 OIL MODS main crank gallery.jpg 318 OIL MODS oil pump p:u.jpg 318 OIL MODS plugs and drill needed.jpg 318 OIL MODS rear main bearing mod.jpg 318 OIL MODS rear main gallery.jpg 318 OIL MODS valley gallery tubes.jpg 318 oil pump mod.jpg

      318 valley X-over tube.jpg
       
    • gregcon

      gregcon Well-Known Member

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      What those pics don't show is what sort of line is feeding the front feed tube once it passes through the rear of the block. I assume he used a -10AN hose but?
       
    • Duane

      Duane Well-Known Member

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      Ok I should point out to you that the pictures I sent you are not of how Sanborn would plumb a race block. Those are pictures of how he would plumb a stock block for guys that don't have or cannot afford a race block.
      His first choice on a race block is to plumb externally. I know you said you do not like external lines, but to use the good stuff(big filter, high flow filter mount,accumulator) you have to use big #12 lines externally.
       
    • Duane

      Duane Well-Known Member

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      You have not read the Sanborn thread, he tells you to use a 12an feed hose for the main feed to the rear of the block. He uses an 8an external line to the front as the front is not about volume, but turbulence. To stop the turbulence does not require big volume.
      The main feed goes back into the block in the oil filter area.
      That is the best way. Medlock also shows some of Sanborns cooling mods in those pics.
       
    • gregcon

      gregcon Well-Known Member

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      I'm all for big hoses but there's no particular benefit in a -12 line when the oil pump is feeding it through a 1/2" passage. The oil feed is only as good as it's smaller diameter, by and large.

      So here's the left galley feed line...it's 1/4" tubing which has an ID of .200 (or so) and it should be plenty to feed the left side upper end. The fittings are 1/8"NPT SwageLoks, I did have to 'bore' them out from .187" to .200" to match the tube size.

      R3 left feed.jpg
       
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      • Duane

        Duane Well-Known Member

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        The 12an lines and the opening of the rear passages in the back of the block and the elimination of the 90 degree filter mount are to reduce pumping losses. What you are saying is that 5 ft of 12 gauge wire is the same as 15 feet of 12 gauge wire. Not true the 15 ft would have voltage drop. It's your motor, but you are questioning oiling mods by a very successful engine builder that routinely revved over 8,000 reliably. I know you do not like external lines, but they were used for a reason. You do not want that crossover line too big, it offsets the benefit of the front feed line, you want some restriction there.
         
        Last edited: Jul 26, 2020
      • Duane

        Duane Well-Known Member

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        Nice work though, very clean looking.
         
      • gregcon

        gregcon Well-Known Member

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        My plan at present is to not even have a right angle filter mount at all. No external lines, no remote filter. Keep everything as short as possible. That could change if header clearance becomes an issue.
         
      • Wyrmrider

        Wyrmrider Well-Known Member

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        Sanborn and Son :)
        I do not like the 90 at the rear bulkhead in some of those pics
        I drill the fittings
        trans cooler ones too after going up one size
         
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        • gregcon

          gregcon Well-Known Member

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          If you mean the trans cooler lines...I've done a fair amount of testing and experimenting on those. What I found was...the factory sizing is pretty much in the money. I restricted them and measured flow and PSI on the return side (per the factory manual). I also opened them up, did more measuring. What I found was the factory sizes gave enough flow to meet the lube demands of the back of the trans....and if I opened the lines they would flow too much. How did I know it was too much? I could see the line pressure sag when I would shift gears....the pump was not able to keep up with the clutches/servos. It wasn't a lot, but it was there. If I didn't have the gauge I wouldn't have know it. But, you have to figure that sag is not helping the apply. Your results may vary lol!
           
        • gregcon

          gregcon Well-Known Member

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          Duane, where did you get those extended fittings? Are they 3/8 or 1/2NPT?

          image-png.png
           
        • Duane

          Duane Well-Known Member

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          I followed Sanborns recommendations so they are 1/2 inch galley with 1/2 pipe threads. I got the fittings at my local dirt track supply
          Bicknell Racing. They are 1/2 inch pipe to 12an and they are steel
          So you can get them out again. Bicknell racing has a store in the US
          as well as Canada.
           
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          • gregcon

            gregcon Well-Known Member

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            Thanks. I found some made by XRP as well. Then, there are Chinese knock-offs on Ebay, too. I'm leaning towards a remote filter now.
             
          • Duane

            Duane Well-Known Member

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            Just make sure they are steel, not aluminum. I understand your hesitation on external lines, but they may even solve header issues
            For you.
             
          • gregcon

            gregcon Well-Known Member

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            I'm currently leaning toward the external pump, which goes hand in hand with the remote filter. Part of my decision will be based on whether or not I want the ability to run the clutchflite trans. It uses an external pump and I will start to run into problems with too many belts and not enough space. If I just use the Lenco then that eliminates one pump/belt.
             
          • yellow rose

            yellow rose Overnight Sensation FABO Gold Member

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            LENCO LENCO LENCO LENCO LENCO LENCO LENCO
            LENCO LENCO LENCO LENCO LENCO LENCO LENCO

            I vote for the LENCO.
             
          • gregcon

            gregcon Well-Known Member

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            lol. Got one stored safely in the master bedroom closet...!
            Lenco .jpg
             
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            • gregcon

              gregcon Well-Known Member

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              I drilled and tapped the oil ports for 1/2NPT (from 3/8NPT) in preparation for a remote filter and/or external oil pump. I moved the port that comes from the oil pump over a small amount....in case I ever want to use a block mounted filter, there is still room for the adapter to seal. It's close.

              To plug the 'old' oil filter port, it's the same thread as an -8AN ORB plug...and there is already a nice looking chamfer for the o-ring to seal against....so I'm gonna try using that method.

              oil port milling.jpg oil port mill.jpg
               
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