Any one running King engine bearings?

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Dartish

Dartish

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Just wondering if anyone has tried the King Si no metal bearings in a mopar yet with any success? I see the the claims about how they polish an improperly ground crank journal, tolerate coolant in the oil, pretty much sounds like a bunch of crap to sell a bunch of cheap bearing???? I know a lot of circle track Chevy guys run these, but they're being tore down after a few weeks anyway. I've noticed clevite and federal main bearings for a 360 are getting pretty pricy, just wondering if anyone's tried these king bearings in a daily driver?
 
Dartish said:
Looks. I meant BI METAL, not NO METAL
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I don't know about all the fancy claims, but I have used them multiple times. No issues. Like most things, they have several performance levels. Id just stay away from the total economy line from either.
 
I'm looking at King Bearings to for my 493 rebuild. I need my info I'm hoping IQ OR ANDYF will give us there take on KING Bearings
 
No way I'd touch em. Bearings need to be soft on surface, hard in the backing.

The soft surface absorbs energy during breaks in the hydro dynamic wedge and offers embedability for particulates. The hard backing provides form and rigidity for the bearing.

If they are hard enough to "polish an improperly finished journal", what stops that wear from continuing to occur? Polishing is the removal of material.... and if they're hard enough to polish, they'd probably be too brittle to make it long anyway.

I would not be surprised if they were made in China. That is the kind of ignorant crap I've come to expect from China.
Edit:after reading up on them, I see that they offer several levels of bearing. While their website reads like engrish in some places, I don't want to imply where they're made. I based my reply above on the op 's comments alone.

Have read up on it, I can see where they may have a legitimate application for really hard bearings, which would (to me anyway) carry reduced lifespan with it. I'd stick with the old tried n true if it was my money.
 
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I ran King 2.1" aluminum rod bearings in my 408 and they looked good after five years of abuse. My 434 has King main and rod bearings. I expect them to hold up well too.
 
What "product line" is claiming that they can polish cranks and such. My general observation again is that if you stay away from the economy line... a nice grooved bearing from Clevite or King would be adequate.
 
I was looking into these new bi metal bearings cuz I heard that's what's being used in the newer engines. They seem to make a lot of bold claims. Just wondering if anyone had tried them. Maybe all the shady machine shops are going to stop grinding and polishing cranks properly because these bearings will "fix" them.lol
They're price should tell you alot, they're about half of a sealed power replacement bearing. I know they're popular with short track stock cars, but figure they probably go 50 or 100 miles before they're rebuilt or blown up. I've also looked at other brands besides King and seems to be a lot of Bi metal bearings all making the same claims. And all of a sudden my tried and true tri metal 77 bearings are $100 a set for a 360. Might be time to find a new hobby. Maybe knitting. I think you can buy quality yarn pretty cheap yet
 
I'm referring to the King SI liine of bi metal bearings. I've looked at some fully grooved clevite. I've never actually ran a fully grooved bearing in a street motor. Heard idle and low rpm oil pressure is pretty low, but that's just what I've heard, always thought they were more for high rpm engines that dont see a lot of idling and putting around in traffic
 
I think the terms are used too loosely to make a blanket claim that all clevites are good, or all kings are bad, or all bi-metals are junk. (not that you did, just throwing it out there)

Just like edelbrock or holley or anyone else. They have economy minded products...and they have performance minded products...


same sticker...different line.
upload_2016-11-9_9-11-6.png

upload_2016-11-9_9-12-1.png
 
Dartish said:
. Heard idle and low rpm oil pressure is pretty low, but that's just what I've heard, always thought they were more for high rpm engines that dont see a lot of idling and putting around in traffic
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sorry but you heard wrong . the surface on each side of the grove still has the same clearance as a non grooved bearings .
 
I understand that the surface still has the same clearance, but with the groove in both shelves don't you think it would need a lot more oil from the pump to fill the groove? Seems logical yous loose some oil pressure or volume but I'm just thinking out loud. Like I said, I've never personally used them, but I'm not against them. They've been around for a long time and Chrysler even sold them. I just thought they be better suited for hi rpm with a HV pump and thick oil. If they will lube everything up in a daily driver without sacrificing oil pressure at low rpm,im all for giving them a try
 
I would think it would supply oil all the way around the crank when the pressure and volume of oil is at it's lowest at idle. the grove would not hold more than a tsp of oil and once its full of oil its full .
 
jimjimjimmy said:
I would think it would supply oil all the way around the crank when the pressure and volume of oil is at it's lowest at idle. the grove would not hold more than a tsp of oil and once its full of oil its full .
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What it does is oil the rods full time.
 
Dartish said:
I was looking into these new bi metal bearings cuz I heard that's what's being used in the newer engines. They seem to make a lot of bold claims. Just wondering if anyone had tried them. Maybe all the shady machine shops are going to stop grinding and polishing cranks properly because these bearings will "fix" them.lol
They're price should tell you alot, they're about half of a sealed power replacement bearing. I know they're popular with short track stock cars, but figure they probably go 50 or 100 miles before they're rebuilt or blown up. I've also looked at other brands besides King and seems to be a lot of Bi metal bearings all making the same claims. And all of a sudden my tried and true tri metal 77 bearings are $100 a set for a 360. Might be time to find a new hobby. Maybe knitting. I think you can buy quality yarn pretty cheap yet
Click to expand...

Please post a link to these "claims".
 

Look up any Bi Metal bearing from King or anyone else at Summit, Jegs, etc. Right there in black in white under product description and overview, they flat out claim to polish an "improperly" polished crank journal. Seems this should be done by the machine shop, not the bearing
 
They are not talking about the same action as a crank being polished by a crank grinder/shop. They are talking about a much finer deal. The silicon helps prevent localized breakdown of the oil wedge. Least that's how I understand it.
IMO King is a better quality bearing than a Clevite or FM. I use them in applications where the clearances are more critical, or high abuse is expected. Clevite/FMs are fine for the vast majority of mixed use engines. In terms of full groove or not... I don't use full groove bearings unless the customer supplies them. I do use 3/4 groove for higher rpm engines but I prefer having the higher stressed portion of the main bearing not have a groove in the middle of it.
 
Are you using the King SI series or the more expensive ones? How much clearance are you normally running? Are these street driven engines that see a lot of miles or race engines?
 
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