Any reason not to do this?

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VonCramp

VonCramp

Well-Known Member
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Okay. So, a lot of you saw my recent threads on third member and axle nightmare. From what I've been told by Dr. Diff. is that my drivers side splines are misaligned causing axle to not seat fully. I have also surmised the small thrust button does not matter if it's still in. (It is.) Anyways, the guy who originally built the third member cut the axle off by 7/16" or so. His words. I am thinking well I've already gotten everything apart. Why not just narrow other axle and housing too? I of course realize this moves everything closer to the springs. Aside from that any thoughts of why this is a bad idea.
 
Why would you wanna shorten the housing? Are you building a drag car? Have you narrowed the sub frame and installed have rear tubs for super wide tires? If not pop that center section out, align the splines, reinstall center section, install axles. If axles are damaged order some new ones up from dr diff.
 
Shoot a pic of the misaligned axle end for our records..and scrutinization ;-) Sounds like there is a solution short of cutting anything.
 
1970Duster said:
Why would you wanna shorten the housing? Are you building a drag car? Have you narrowed the sub frame and installed have rear tubs for super wide tires? If not pop that center section out, align the splines, reinstall center section, install axles. If axles are damaged order some new ones up from dr diff.
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Not full on drag car, but definitely some wider tires are in order. I figure since everything is apart. Why not??? Maybe some 10" cheater M&H slicks. Tired of my 7" bias wide ovals just lighting up and not going anywhere. No tubs or mini tubs if I can avoid it. Just thoughts.
 
That case just fix the rear and order the rim that fits and gives/takes up the most of the wheel well.
 
Brother your luck sounds like mine! It sounds like the guy cut the axle not the housing correct? I personally would fix what I had. Get the issue at hand fixed. For your car there really isn't anything to be gained by narrowing the rear housing without a mini tub/spring relocate that a different set of wheels with the proper backspace wouldn't accomplish. Then that leads to figuring out proper backspace etc. you can get general ideas on wheels from here on FABO but the issue is no two of these cars are built the same. So what one person may get away with you may not due to individual vehicle differences. Of course as always these are my thoughts. I say it's your ride do what you'd like. No disrespect meant. Have fun.
 
1970Duster said:
Why would you wanna shorten the housing? Are you building a drag car? Have you narrowed the sub frame and installed have rear tubs for super wide tires? If not pop that center section out, align the splines, reinstall center section, install axles. If axles are damaged order some new ones up from dr diff.
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Simple enough solution^^^^
VonCramp said:
Not full on drag car, but definitely some wider tires are in order. I figure since everything is apart. Why not??? Maybe some 10" cheater M&H slicks. Tired of my 7" bias wide ovals just lighting up and not going anywhere. No tubs or mini tubs if I can avoid it. Just thoughts.
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If you are not going to mini tub it no real reason to narrow the housing. Unless you have a specific rim that you want to run that requires it for the wheels to fit....
 
"I" would want that thrust button out anyway. Since you're gonna hafta pull the third member to align the splines, you can take it out then.
 
VonCramp said:
Anyways, the guy who originally built the third member cut the axle off by 7/16" or so. His words. I am thinking well I've already gotten everything apart. Why not just narrow other axle and housing too? I of course realize this moves everything closer to the springs. Aside from that any thoughts of why this is a bad idea.
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This rear end was in the car and running fine before you had things messed with so why would you have to cut things to put it back together if all the correct parts were used?

I think you need to find someone that knows how to fix your problem without screwing anything up even worse.
 
Dubob said:
Brother your luck sounds like mine! It sounds like the guy cut the axle not the housing correct? I personally would fix what I had. Get the issue at hand fixed. For your car there really isn't anything to be gained by narrowing the rear housing without a mini tub/spring relocate that a different set of wheels with the proper backspace wouldn't accomplish. Then that leads to figuring out proper backspace etc. you can get general ideas on wheels from here on FABO but the issue is no two of these cars are built the same. So what one person may get away with you may not due to individual vehicle differences. Of course as always these are my thoughts. I say it's your ride do what you'd like. No disrespect meant. Have fun.
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From what I have surmised is that back when third member was built, I screwed up by rotating the passenger side axle to bolt the flange down. When you do this it throws the other side out of alignment on the splines. When I attempted to install the driver's side axle it bottomed out 7/16" shy of going in all the way. I took out third member and axle. I took them to the builder and explained what was going on his sollution was to remove 7/16" off of axle. I found out too late that according to Dr.Diff it is spline misalignment at the suregrip unit.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
This rear end was in the car and running fine before you had things messed with so why would you have to cut things to put it back together if all the correct parts were used?

I think you need to find someone that knows how to fix your problem without screwing anything up even worse.
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So, during your first ever differential changeover from open carrier to a rebuilt suregrip unit, you already knew everything and understood any issues that may come your way? Assuming this reply was directed at me and not the builder of the third member. Hard to tell here.
 
STOP ! ! ! Give your head a shake,, find a close friend to give you a slap up the side of your head...

You're gonna give the bone-head that couldn't torque your pinion correctly, that had no clue about the diff spline mis-align, so he wacked an axle, and now it's no use to you,, NOW, your gonna give this guy a chance to cut up one of the most expensive 8 3/4 housings out there...

Get the diff splines aligned,, send it to some-one if you don't think you can do it yourself, by the several descriptions offered here...

Get another axle, the right length from here or Dr. Diff..

AND NEVER GO BACK TO THAT IDIOT AGAIN,,, RUNNNNN, ... run far

where the heck is League City anyway,, anybody live near him, or close enuff to go align that diff..

this is where I wish I had a magic wand... sheesh ...

PS,, has this idiot confirmed there's enuff spline remaining to engage the diff properly after he cuts the housing down,, or are you then gonna hafta find new axles ??????
 
inertia said:
STOP ! ! ! Give your head a shake,, find a close friend to give you a slap up the side of your head...

You're gonna give the bone-head that couldn't torque your pinion correctly, that had no clue about the diff spline mis-align, so he wacked an axle, and now it's no use to you,, NOW, your gonna give this guy a chance to cut up one of the most expensive 8 3/4 housings out there...

Get the diff splines aligned,, send it to some-one if you don't think you can do it yourself, by the several descriptions offered here...

Get another axle, the right length from here or Dr. Diff..

AND NEVER GO BACK TO THAT IDIOT AGAIN,,, RUNNNNN, ... run far

where the heck is League City anyway,, anybody live near him, or close enuff to go align that diff..

this is where I wish I had a magic wand... sheesh ...
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The last thing I want is to frustrate anyone here. I just thought why not narrow the rear for free instead of buying a new axle and bearing. I will buy a new axle to keep things cool here. That's why I posed this question is too get opinions. League City is between Galveston and Houston. 20 minutes either direction.
 
VonCramp said:
The last thing I want is to frustrate anyone here. I just thought why not narrow the rear for free instead of buying a new axle and bearing. I will buy a new axle to keep things cool here. That's why I posed this question is too get opinions. League City is between Galveston and Houston. 20 minutes either direction.
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I'm not frustated,, I'm frustrated for you...

If you were a little closer,, I'd be happy to come and sort this stuff out,,

I just can't watch you continue to get good advice here,, and that Bozo is sooo screwing you up,, hence the magic wand,...

Just stop,, take a breath,, re-read all your threads,, and you'll soon see a path you could have followed,, and been driving your car by now...

hope it helps... God bless you..

PS.... I wouldn't trust that fool to service my steel wheel, wheelbarrow.. (1 moving part)
 
VonCramp said:
So, during your first ever differential changeover from open carrier to a rebuilt suregrip unit, you already knew everything and understood any issues that may come your way? Assuming this reply was directed at me and not the builder of the third member. Hard to tell here.
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That is directed to the builder of the third member, not you. Your builder is no professional in my books and you should not just walk away, instead you should run away.
 
inertia said:
I'm not frustated,, I'm frustrated for you...

If you were a little closer,, I'd be happy to come and sort this stuff out,,

I just can't watch you continue to get good advice here,, and that Bozo is sooo screwing you up,, hence the magic wand,...

Just stop,, take a breath,, re-read all your threads,, and you'll soon see a path you could have followed,, and been driving your car by now...

hope it helps... God bless you..
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Everyone has been really helpful here. I am very appreciative. As far as following a path, this has been a long confusing nightmare. Who would have ever thought by inserting the passenger side axle first I'd throw the other side out of whack?! All I did was insert passenger side axle and rotate it while tightening the flange bolts down with a ratchet. Everyone kept talking about the thrust button being in the way. It just snowballed from there.
 
Just as a sub-note,, one of our members has a rear axle prob..

It was shortened,, and while the driver's side aligns sorta true,, the pass wheel is toed-in almost an inch..

THAT'S WHAT I'd expect the fool to do to your rear,, DON'T give him the chance.! ! !
 
VonCramp said:
Everyone has been really helpful here. I am very appreciative. As far as following a path, this has been a long confusing nightmare. Who would have ever thought by inserting the passenger side axle first I'd throw the other side out of whack?! All I did was insert passenger side axle and rotate it while tightening the flange bolts down with a ratchet. Everyone kept talking about the thrust button being in the way. It just snowballed from there.
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Yes,, but then you diss-regarded the post to try and twist the axle slightly to engage the spline,, and then RRR explanation of loosening the carrier bolts to re-align the splines.. and a coupla others tried too..

Oh well,, re-read everything,, and your next path should be fairly clear..

We're all pulling for you like you wouldn't believe, (except maybe one.. lol)...

It'll come together...
 
inertia said:
Yes,, but then you diss-regarded the post to try and twist the axle slightly to engage the spline,, and then RRR explanation of loosening the carrier bolts to re-align the splines.. and a coupla others tried too..

Oh well,, re-read everything,, and your next path should be fairly clear..

We're all pulling for you like you wouldn't believe, (except maybe one.. lol)...

It'll come together...
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Ha ha! I can miss the forest through the trees sometimes. I don't think I understood at the time about twisting the axle to force it to line up the splines. Believe me. I understand now! Sometimes I miss Chevy's. A lot less confusing.
 
I think you hit the nail on the head. Sell the Mopar and go back to screwing up chevies. Yes, I am being sarcastic. Seriously though, take a good light and look down the housing to see if the splines are misaligned, or if half of the thrust button is dislodged and is sitting in the splines.preventing the axle from going in. Half a thrust button depending on how it sits could be about 7/16"......

Seriously, shake your head. They are all mechanical things, nothing is more confusing from one to another.
 
d55dave said:
I think you hit the nail on the head. Sell the Mopar and go back to screwing up chevies. Yes, I am being sarcastic. Seriously though, take a good light and look down the housing to see if the splines are misaligned, or if half of the thrust button is dislodged and is sitting in the splines.preventing the axle from going in. Half a thrust button depending on how it sits could be about 7/16"......

Seriously, shake your head. They are all mechanical things, nothing is more confusing from one to another.
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Ha ha!!! Actually, I am screwing up both Mopar and a 57 Chevy. My 'cuda has gutted doors with lexan for windows. Fiberglass hood and bumpers. Getting red tint on the windows too. The 57 has fiberglass front fenders. Radiused rear wheel wells. No front bumper. Fiberglass hood. Cheater slicks on chrome reverse wheels. I like 60's and early 70's style stuff.
 
I gave clear concise instructions on how to fix it in one of your many other threads. Very simple. Just do it.
 
Y'all will be happy to know I am not cutting the rear end. The differential guy cut 9/16" off the axle. So I will buying a new one. The driver's side splines are not aligned. That was the problem all along.
 
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