Any tips for handling a soldering iron while under dash?

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Futzy1

Futzy1

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I'm finishing up some under dash wiring tonight. I've mocked everything up with butt connectors to make sure it's all correct, but I have an electronics background and I hate crimp connectors in general, so I'm going to solder it all up tonight.

So here is my question. Any advice for how to handle a standard cheapo soldering iron while working under the dash? Currently my plan is to get my wife to come out with me to just hold it while I'm not using it, and scream "IRON!!!" When I need it. I am however not sure if that's going to work out the best for my marriage.

Thanks as always.
 
Buy a cheap soldering gun and save your marriage! You'll be ahead in the long run.
 
I know, I know, I'm just so impatient. Which is probably the reason yelling at my wife to hand me the iron will be the straw the breaks the camels back
 
I dislike solder guns. They can burn out and they stay hot far longer than you think they should. Bring out a cookie sheet and lay cheapo on that when not in use. One thing solder guns are good for is triggering the mag input on a distrutor pickup, put it near it and hit the trigger.
 

cold heat soldering iron LOVE MINE !!!!
 
Sorry I don't really. I've got a portasol type butane fired iron, but still prefer the corded. No cord is better in tight situations. With the built in ignitor, its not too bad - still got to be careful because it is flame technology and controlling the tip temperature is all manual.

I've slowly become more of a crimp connector user and use much less soldered joints. I still don't like parts store crimp connectors, but the open barrel connectors (like the packard 56) with a good crimper - really makes a good connection. That said I had to make a splice in the jeeps tailgate wires last week and soldering seemed like my best choice in that situation.
 
Unless it's too late pull the cluster. Makes it easier to solder on it and under the dash. I found a bad trace that needed repair so I'm glad I did.
20180415_150916.jpg
 
I use a cordless butane one. Usually one fill for a remote starter install. On high to solder, set to low and set outside door on floor.
Depending on where you are sitting,kneeling or laying , outside on floor is best. Now butane runs hot,as well as wire melting exhaust to contend with.
I burned out three butane ones in my years of under dash wiring, at 175 or so apiece i still think they are much faster than a gun.waiting for the heat is a time killer for sure. Cookie sheet on a piece of plywood will save your carpet.
 
jazak5 said:

cold heat soldering iron LOVE MINE !!!!
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Sorry, My tip broke after 3 minutes of use. never fixed it but I found it didnt generate enough heat to do anything useful except solder jewelry as on the commercial....maybe I was pressing too hard because I thought it wasnt working? probably......Tip is very brittle.
 
The cold heat is great for tiny stuff. I mean tiny.
Try a 14 guage wire-not a hope.
 
you can get replacement tips in different styles AND you have to use their solder//it melts at a lower temp/// the tips are conductive ceramic
 
OOHHH come on ,,I'd rather admit to hitting my head from under the dash than domestic quarrel:BangHead:
 
Wow, thanks for all the feedback. The best idea I've had so far is to attach a grip clamp to a piece of wire hanger. I'm totally going to end up melting some part of my face off tonight. Lol

I should have stipulated that there is a soldering iron I've had my eye on for a while, so I really didn't want to buy another one until I get that one. I do a lot of freestyle drone stuff and it's been on the list for that arena. You guys should check it out. I will say it's not perfect for auto use, but it's got some really great all around features. You can run it off a lipo battery or wall plug so it's almost cordless, its fast to heat up and cool down, and it rivals some of the $300 and up stations for bench work.

As far as the cold heat, I got one of those when they very first came out over a decade ago and I remember being VERY disapointed. (Not enough heat, and brittle tips.) Have they gotten any better?

Oh, and lastly before I forget. I dont mind crimp on ends, I mostly just hate crimp butt connectors. I know there are good ones, I've just been bitten too many times by the bad ones.
 
krazykuda said:
Don't let the hot solder drip on you...
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Only happens when working upside down and overhead!
Futzy1 said:
Oh, and lastly before I forget. I dont mind crimp on ends, I mostly just hate crimp butt connectors. I know there are good ones, I've just been bitten too many times by the bad ones.
Click to expand...
I hear you! That was the boat I was in with the tailgate. If I had some marine grade for 12 awg I might have gone that route. Getting the connectors free so I could remove the terminals and replace the full length was out of the question. That requires removing the rear window, so it was solder a splice. Should have made 'em even longer for better strain relief...
 
Mattax said:
Sorry I don't really. I've got a portasol type butane fired iron, but still prefer the corded. No cord is better in tight situations. With the built in ignitor, its not too bad - still got to be careful because it is flame technology and controlling the tip temperature is all manual.

I've slowly become more of a crimp connector user and use much less soldered joints. I still don't like parts store crimp connectors, but the open barrel connectors (like the packard 56) with a good crimper - really makes a good connection. That said I had to make a splice in the jeeps tailgate wires last week and soldering seemed like my best choice in that situation.
Click to expand...


^^^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^^^^ I just did an ignition install and didn't solder a single damn connector. If you have a good crimper (I paid 14 bucks for mine at Lowes) and cover the joint with heat shrink tube they'll last forever.

I almost never solder anything anymore.
 
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