Anybody use clutch tamer

[Newbomb Turk]

View attachment 1716323830
View attachment 1716323831View attachment 1716323832View attachment 1716323833View attachment 1716323834
Got it back on the road. Couple speed bumps but got it figured out. Guys over at Tick performance helped out with getting a badass throw out bearing installed. Initially this release bearings for a t56. This release bearing retracts unlike most hydraulic release bearings. Specifically made for weighted finger clutches. Check out their YouTube video on it. They retro fitted it for a tkx. It mounts to the bell rather than the trans. Making it easy for removal, along with a dry break fitting. I had to swap to a 15/16 bore master. Cut a few holes in bell for air gap for clutch disc and weights.
Took the car out for a few hours. Honestly drives the same other than a little squeak from the disc while engaging, kinda the nature of the beast with sintered iron disk. Very happy with the set up and can’t wait to make passes in it… just in time for the winter.

AWESOME!! Did someone give you a starting tune up?? I'm excited!!

 

[cpearce]

View attachment 1716323830
View attachment 1716323831View attachment 1716323832View attachment 1716323833View attachment 1716323834
Got it back on the road. Couple speed bumps but got it figured out. Guys over at Tick performance helped out with getting a badass throw out bearing installed. Initially this release bearings for a t56. This release bearing retracts unlike most hydraulic release bearings. Specifically made for weighted finger clutches. Check out their YouTube video on it. They retro fitted it for a tkx. It mounts to the bell rather than the trans. Making it easy for removal, along with a dry break fitting. I had to swap to a 15/16 bore master. Cut a few holes in bell for air gap for clutch disc and weights.
Took the car out for a few hours. Honestly drives the same other than a little squeak from the disc while engaging, kinda the nature of the beast with sintered iron disk. Very happy with the set up and can’t wait to make passes in it… just in time for the winter.

How did you make such a nice window in the bell? Quicktime wanted $750 to window mine, plus $250 to recert, plus shipping.

 

[SlantedDart]

AWESOME!! Did someone give you a starting tune up?? I'm excited!!

Mike at Ram gave me something to work with. So far street tune works lol

 

[SlantedDart]

How did you make such a nice window in the bell? Quicktime wanted $750 to window mine, plus $250 to recert, plus shipping.

4 1-5/8 hole saw holes wish I would of took the time to make a cover plate but it’s in there now

 

[SSG_Karg]

Any update on how this setup is working?

 

[Jeremiah (jd)]

My setup works okay. Still tuning. Next up n20

 

[Newbomb Turk]

My setup works okay. Still tuning. Next up n20

View attachment 1716456365

lol going on the hose! Should be fun.

 

[weedburner]

My setup works okay. Still tuning. Next up n20

View attachment 1716456365

Have you thought about putting the nitrous on a delay?

With simple WOT switch activation, you are spraying on top of the inertia spikes. Those inertia spikes only last half a second or on average, but there are 4 of them on a 4spd car and spraying anything on top of them requires more clutch clamp pressure to hold an even larger spike. Spraying on top of spikes not only reduces how much total one can spray, but adding clamp pressure to hold a bigger nitrous enhanced spike also makes the car harder to launch NA.

A nitrous delay basically allows the nitrous to come in on the heels of the inertia spikes, instead of adding to them. The idea is to use the nitrous to fill the gaps BETWEEN inertia spikes without making the spikes themselves bigger. Adding delay can allow a 10sec 175 shot simple WOT switch car to spray at least twice as much between the spikes without increasing the peak impact numbers sent to the drivetrain. That means you can spray more before reaching the threshold that either hurts the transmission, blows thru the clutch, or knocks the tires loose. When you reduce it down to numbers, which scenario do you think would be quicker for that 10sec car?....
...spray 175 for the full 10 seconds, 175hp nitrous x 10 seconds = 1750
...spray 350 for just the 8 seconds between spikes, 350hp nitrous x 8 seconds = 2800
In this example, that's 66% more nitrous assist without increasing peak impact on the drivetrain.

Here's a link to one of my pages with more detail... ClutchTamer.com

Grant

 

[Jeremiah (jd)]

Have you thought about putting the nitrous on a delay?

With simple WOT switch activation, you are spraying on top of the inertia spikes. Those inertia spikes only last half a second or on average, but there are 4 of them on a 4spd car and spraying anything on top of them requires more clutch clamp pressure to hold an even larger spike. Spraying on top of spikes not only reduces how much total one can spray, but adding clamp pressure to hold a bigger nitrous enhanced spike also makes the car harder to launch NA.

A nitrous delay basically allows the nitrous to come in on the heels of the inertia spikes, instead of adding to them. The idea is to use the nitrous to fill the gaps BETWEEN inertia spikes without making the spikes themselves bigger. Adding delay can allow a 10sec 175 shot simple WOT switch car to spray at least twice as much between the spikes without increasing the peak impact numbers sent to the drivetrain. That means you can spray more before reaching the threshold that either hurts the transmission, blows thru the clutch, or knocks the tires loose. When you reduce it down to numbers, which scenario do you think would be quicker for that 10sec car?....
...spray 175 for the full 10 seconds, 175hp nitrous x 10 seconds = 1750
...spray 350 for just the 8 seconds between spikes, 350hp nitrous x 8 seconds = 2800
In this example, that's 66% more nitrous assist without increasing peak impact on the drivetrain.

Here's a link to one of my pages with more detail... ClutchTamer.com

Grant

Thank you for the information sir. The nitrous kit is on a progressive with a delay Incorporated.

 

[fishmens67]

lol going on the hose! Should be fun.

It's nothing new to JD.

 

[Jeremiah (jd)]

Have you thought about putting the nitrous on a delay?

With simple WOT switch activation, you are spraying on top of the inertia spikes. Those inertia spikes only last half a second or on average, but there are 4 of them on a 4spd car and spraying anything on top of them requires more clutch clamp pressure to hold an even larger spike. Spraying on top of spikes not only reduces how much total one can spray, but adding clamp pressure to hold a bigger nitrous enhanced spike also makes the car harder to launch NA.

A nitrous delay basically allows the nitrous to come in on the heels of the inertia spikes, instead of adding to them. The idea is to use the nitrous to fill the gaps BETWEEN inertia spikes without making the spikes themselves bigger. Adding delay can allow a 10sec 175 shot simple WOT switch car to spray at least twice as much between the spikes without increasing the peak impact numbers sent to the drivetrain. That means you can spray more before reaching the threshold that either hurts the transmission, blows thru the clutch, or knocks the tires loose. When you reduce it down to numbers, which scenario do you think would be quicker for that 10sec car?....
...spray 175 for the full 10 seconds, 175hp nitrous x 10 seconds = 1750
...spray 350 for just the 8 seconds between spikes, 350hp nitrous x 8 seconds = 2800
In this example, that's 66% more nitrous assist without increasing peak impact on the drivetrain.

Here's a link to one of my pages with more detail... ClutchTamer.com

Grant

Thinking more on this, I don't actually use the delay function. I use the RPM window switch. N20 is on from 5000 to 6500. I shift at 6600ish because I feel the kit turn off. The lowest RPM on a gear change is 4750. This is how I figured out the 7" tire at no prep events. I will launch at 4000ish and when the kit comes on the progressive is at 100% for .02 and then start the ramp at 75% for .5 seconds. I'll report back on my success or failure. Class rules:

-Full interior/tagged&insured
-Any power adder
-28x9 slick, 275/60/15, or 28x11.50(section width) bias ply
Roll bars okay, no roll cages
$200/car entry, $500 from class sponsor to win

 

[greendart408]

I’m watching this as well, I need a tamer but for some reason haven’t installed one yet. My old school w2 340 setup has no torque and is hard for me to consistently mechanically slip it out and keep it in the meat. Can only get it to go 1.63 so far…..

 

[Jeremiah (jd)]

I’m watching this as well, I need a tamer but for some reason haven’t installed one yet. My old school w2 340 setup has no torque and is hard for me to consistently mechanically slip it out and keep it in the meat. Can only get it to go 1.63 so far…..

What kind of clutch are you using?

 

[greendart408]

I bought a bunch of old school 340 parts from the 70s. It was in the bundle. It’s a borg and beck and the guy that I bought the stuff from and bought it new thought it was called a borg-warner power brute clutch is all I know. I had nothing to loose in trying it so in it went.

 

[Jeremiah (jd)]

Organic disc or?

 

[SSG_Karg]

Probably about a 2800# pp and organic disc. Leg breaker/ parts breaker. Like the Hays street/strip unit I **** canned a few years ago.

 

[Newbomb Turk]

I bought a bunch of old school 340 parts from the 70s. It was in the bundle. It’s a borg and beck and the guy that I bought the stuff from and bought it new thought it was called a borg-warner power brute clutch is all I know. I had nothing to loose in trying it so in it went.

@RustyRatRod knows the name of a clutch shop. I forget where he said it was. Where ever it is, you can send it to them and have them set the spring pressure based on your disc and it’s coefficient of friction.

If it’s organic/organic you don’t need any more than 2400 pounds. And if it has roller assist have them take those out.

You most likely don’t need that extra clamp load.

 

[RustyRatRod]

@RustyRatRod knows the name of a clutch shop that will set up that pressure plate any way you need it. I forget where he said it was. Where ever it is, you can send it to them and have them set the spring pressure based on your disc and it’s coefficient of friction.

If you are going to run a clutch tamer get ahold of @weedburner and have him tell you how much spring pressure you need for that disc.

There is no reason not to use what you have. The diaphragm pressure plate isn’t magic.

Kentucky Clutch. They will handle it.

 

[greendart408]

Yes it’s organic

 

[SlantedDart]

Any update on how this setup is working?

It’s been going well. The adjustable clutch is very nice. Sine the install we did in a couple local drag and drives and put about 20 passes on it along with the modern mopar shoot out. Took 3rd in the 11.50 class. Still definitely learning the base and counter weight. I miss how easy it was to drive the organic disc. This one is easy but it gets angry sometimes street driving taking off from a light.