Anyone ever redo the dash cap on a Dart?

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73 dart custom

73 dart custom

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My dash is in bad shape, split and just not good. I am thinking about either having it redone or doing it myself. I can tell that under the "vinyl" and thin foam layer it is just a shelf of metal. So wondering if anyone has refurbished one themselves and if so are there any pointers or pictures? I am thinking of just taking it off and removing all the old vinyl and foam and replacing it. I think I have a source for vintage vinyl maybe. Not doing a show car, but will drive it about 10 mile a week to and from work. Still want it to look nice. Here is what it currently looks like.

dash 4.jpg


dash 5.jpg


dash 6.jpg


dash 7.jpg


dash 8.jpg
 
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You'll need a better dash to cap. The cap has to be attached on the complete outside perimeter or the will crack in the sun. No adhesive in the middle at all so it can expand and contracted
 
Oldmanmopar said:
You'll need a better dash to cap. The cap has to be attached on the complete outside perimeter or the will crack in the sun. No adhesive in the middle at all so it can expand and contracted
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Thank you for the response. Sorry, my wording wasn't what I meant. Not looking to actually put a cap over it. What I am wondering is can I remove the old vinyl and foam from the dash and redo it with new? And if so, does anyone have any pics where they have done one?
 
to use a dash cap you need a dash pad the is cracking apart but not deformed. You need the original pad to adhere it to. They give you a tube of silicon. You put this around the outside of your original pad and tape it down until it is dry. I bought one for a race car and screwed it to a dash frame to cut weight. It cracked the first day it was in the sun. They need to be sitting on the original pad.

Pads are available Call "Dante's mopar parts" You are better off getting a reproduction pad. You'll be happier in the end
 
Oldmanmopar said:
to use a dash cap you need a dash pad the is cracking apart but not deformed. You need the original pad to adhere it to. They give you a tube of silicon. You put this around the outside of your original pad and tape it down until it is dry. I bought one for a race car and screwed it to a dash frame to cut weight. It cracked the first day it was in the sun. They need to be sitting on the original pad.

Pads are available Call "Dante's mopar parts" You are better off getting a reproduction pad. You'll be happier in the end
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info I will check them out. I am guessing it is a lot of work to replace them then.
 
I have done a couple caps on A bodys and they look and hold up very well. You will however need a better core to start with. They reproduce the pad now so the caps are much less attractive cost wise. The new pads are around $300.
 
MoparMike1974 said:
I have done a couple caps on A bodys and they look and hold up very well. You will however need a better core to start with. They reproduce the pad now so the caps are much less attractive cost wise. The new pads are around $300.
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Yeah I agree the caps are not very attractive cost wise compared to the new dash pads. My issue at the moment is that I am not finding any in the green yet. Guess I will keep looking until I find what I want.
 
73 dart custom said:
Thanks for the info I will check them out. I am guessing it is a lot of work to replace them then.
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Not really take out the glove box, Drop the column a little to take out the cluster. 5 , 3/8 nuts and 2 5/16 screws. You can get them with a quarter in nut driver or ratchet and long extension with a deep well 3/8 for the 5 nuts, And a Quarter inch ratchet with a 5/16 socket and short extension on the ends for the 2 screws.

Vinyl paint
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Not really take out the glove box, Drop the column a little to take out the cluster. 5 , 3/8 nuts and 2 5/16 screws. You can get them with a quarter in nut driver or ratchet and long extension with a deep well 3/8 for the 5 nuts, And a Quarter inch ratchet with a 5/16 socket and short extension on the ends for the 2 screws.

Vinyl paint
Click to expand...
Well that doesn't sound to hard to do, just a few nuts and screws.
 
6pk2goDemon said:
There's lots of good info & pics in this thread on redoing your dash pad...

How many of you without a dash pad? Now With Pics
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Took a look at that and that was very interesting! Although I am not wanting to mess with any of the gauges on mine as far as customizing them that thread let me know what to expect when the old pad comes off. And it did give me some ideas of the unlimited possibilities for making it look better than it does now! Again, I do appreciate it :)
 
Long time ago there was a "Show us your jacked up dash pad" thread. Yours wouldn't win but it's definitely a top 5 contender. LOL
This is another one of those "snowballing" tasks. Once the inst' panel and glove box liner are pulled... You have to consider wiper pivot seals, new linkage bushings, maybe new defrost tubes, lube speedo cable and any heat control cables.
A member like me will give you a better looking inst bezel for the cost of shipping. The chrome is gone but the woodgrain looks good.
You may as well throw a solid state regulator along with all new bulbs and sockets at the inst' panel while you're there. Clean the gauge screens and repaint the needles if needed.
Just soooooooo much crap about a dash. One issue after another. We don't want to go there repeatedly.
A note about dying... Any color can be changed to black. When changing black to another color, you'll get better results if you go to a neutral base color first. I use SEM products and sometimes have custom color mixed. My base coat is whatever light sand/beige off the shelf they have.
 
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RedFish said:
Long time ago there was a "Show us your jacked up dash pad" thread. Yours wouldn't win but it's definitely a top 5 contender. LOL
This is another one of those "snowballing" tasks. Once the inst' panel and glove box liner are pulled... You have to consider wiper pivot seals, new linkage bushings, maybe new defrost tubes, lube speedo cable and any heat control cables.
A member like me will give you a better looking inst bezel for the cost of shipping. The chrome is gone but the woodgrain looks good.
You may as well throw a solid state regulator along with all new bulbs and sockets at the inst' panel while you're there. Clean the gauge screens and repaint the needles if needed.
Just soooooooo much crap about a dash. One issue after another. We don't want to go there repeatedly.
A note about dying... Any color can be changed to black. When changing black to another color, you'll get better results if you go to a neutral base color first. I use SEM products and sometimes have custom color mixed. My base coat is whatever light sand/beige off the shelf they have.
Click to expand...

LOL top 5 huh... hey at least I placed!!! Thank you for the response, I appreciate it!! Ummm... what chrome? I haven't seen a picture yet of an original unmodified 1973 Dart Custom dash to compare mine to unfortunately. I am still looking for one which shows detail.
Actually the wood grain is toast on the left side of the speedometer. I touched it and the paint flaked off so now it has an odd shaped bright shiny silver metal spot there. For just a moment I actually thought about removing the rest of the wood grain paint but am afraid it would blind me when the sun hits it.
I am hoping to keep the same green or as close as I can get to it for the vinyl.
And, I am not in a big rush to complete everything at once so at least I can take my time and watch the classifieds in the forum to see what becomes available.
 
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