anyone have problems with electric fans

-
my car ran cooler with a belt driven stock style fan then it did with a 3600 cfm electric fan
 
daves 72 dart said:
i am going to run a electric waterpump and a aluminum radiator.i only have one pully for the alterantor.
Click to expand...



Electric waterpumps are fine for the strip but not for street use, you will have over heating issues on the hwy. They just weren't designed for the street.

Electric fans are fine on the street but it depends on the type of fans you run and the cfm's, also the coverage of the radiator. To get a good fan you need to look at Spal or other good companies, don't just buy an affordable one from Summit. Also pushers are a lot less efficient than pullers. I'm running two 11" pushers that only total 2700 cfm and that was the most CFM's I could find with a pusher. I have no over heating issues but I have a good aluminum radiator and an Edlebrock water pump which are worth the money they cost.
 
thanks my car will not see to much hwy time.it has 488 gears but it will see some street time on cruise nights.
 
I had a 3600 cfm flex-a-lite fan puller fan in small block Challenger. Worked pretty well for me. It had a thermostat that would kick the fan on when needed. Can't remember the model it was but I'm sure that there's one out there that will work for ya. You have to make sure that its wide enough to cover your radiator as it will replace your stock fan shroud if you have one.
 
hawkfn18 was your small block stock?this is my build 1972 340 block
Work done: O-ringed, tubed for roller cam, oil gallies enlarged, bored to 4.07(.030 over) and honed with deck plates by Herb McCandless.

340 steel crank
Prepared by Lunati, stroked .110 to 3.42 stroke and balanced.

340 steel rods
Prepped by Lunati. Hand picked set. All are within .001 of each other in length. Bronze bushed, balanced and lightened.and shot peened.

Heads
340 X heads with 2.08 intake valves and 1.60 exhausts. Double springs for .700 lift cam, Maximum porting on intake and exhaust ports.Ports are 63cc combustion chambers. they flow 260 to around 270 cfm

Pistons
Venolia lightweight forged pistons. Uses dykes top ring, 1/16 2nd ring and standard tension oil rings. Weight is 510 grams.

Intake
Holley Strip Dominator ported to match heads.the carb is a bigs 950 stage 5

Camshaft
Cam Motion roller 269 275 @ .050 and .631 lift with 1.5 rocker Valves set on .024 .028
RPM range 4500-7500. Cam is degreed in at 104 deg centerline.

Other Parts
High volume Melling oil pump, Comp Cams roller lifters, Crane 1.5 roller rockers(gold), Fluid Balancer, windage tray, Cloyes double roller timing set. SCE copper head gaskets(.060). Tall valve covers for use with roller rockers. Moroso 8 qt deep sump oil pan. Bronze cam gear for use with roller cams.i plan on shifting at 7200. i dont wont to hurt this engine.thanks for the help
 
Nope it was bored 30 over and had a pretty hot cam in it. It had about 10:1 compression in it. It worked pretty well for me. I would stay away from electric water pumps as others have said for street use.
 
I have a Be Cool radiator and electric fan...............I'm not happy either

My 340 is .040 and about 10:1 with march pulleys..........it is OK until I have to idle then temps starts up and keeps going. My water pump is suppose to be for an AC car. Have changed for the fan that came from Be cool in there module as they call it. It is as big a fan as I can use. i have also had the fuse holder melt, didn't blow fuse, melted the holder, when going to car show at Paddock. Was driving on the interstate early morning and in my opinon it should not have even been on.

I will change the water pump and if that doesn't do it maybe the pulleys and then the fan back to mechanical.

If I were to do it again, I would have never put the electric fan on.
 
i had overheating problems too with just the electric fan and i had an aluminum radiator. i reversed the fan and put it in front of the radiator and put a 7 blade stock like one on and helped out a bunch. if you can do a fan shrowd, that will help out a real lot too.
 
A stock fan with viscous is your best bet if used with a shroud, can't go wrong there as alot of guys can attest.

Going down the highway cools anything wel, but the true test comes when you are stopped at red lights or caught in traffic.

A pusher fan is okay but not too great at red lights and such as I found out the hard way so I installed a cheapo auto parts store flex fan with a shroud from a dart and it cools pretty decent, but I will switch on my electric pusher fan if I tend to run hot at the red lights, and it seems to work well this way.
I will also bet the car will run cooler with the pusher fan removed altogether since it may be restricting airflow just sitting there.

Puller fans work pretty decent if they can suck some good CFM's with good coverage, but if you are going to run en electric fan, make sure you use a relay otherwise you are going to eventually smoke your rocker switch from the current.
I ran one for a couple months before I smoked the switch, luckily it blew the fuse after the switch started smoking in my dash...yikes!

The next day, my dumb *** had a relay in there, and I went ahead and did the same thing with my electric fuel pump too.

The fuel pump seemed to quiet down a bit once the relay was wired up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top