anyone here do their own powdercoating at home?
- Thread starter volaredon
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(damn ads again interfering with my ability to post to my own thread)
Ok I did finally buy some powder primer today so it'll be later in the week before I get it
I looked at powder but the pound at their offerings and they had this one primer that they're about out of stock on (they had like 7 or 8 lb of it and there was nothing there that said they have more coming or that this was all of that particular stuff they'd ever have or whatever) so I got something different. They had a high zinc and then 2 other types. I didn't get the zinc stuff because of those wheels that I eventually want to do and the zinc stuff wasn't recommended for use as a base for coating aluminum. So there was a red oxide and a gray epoxy. The red was quite cheap. Is this a "get what you pay for" deal where cheap isn't good? I don't know so I got the gray epoxy stuff coming. Somehow their testing info ( if it can be believed) claims the "salt spray" testing this stuff was tested for longer than the zinc based primer... And supposedly " held up".
I got 10 lb ( biggest amount of any single, certain powder I have bought at a time) since I can use it under any/everything else.
I'm not gonna backtrack and strip / redo anything I have done so far for the sake of adding primer underneath the color but I have some stuff to do that will be constantly exposed to weather (whatever that might be) and in the case of rotors drums backing plates for the rear end and hubs on the Dana 60 off and on heat/ cool cycles too so I thought, whether right or wrong (?) that if anything that's getting coated for this job could use "reinforcement" and "help" staying bonded it's this sort of thing.
I have 2 rear ends worth of drums hubs and backing plates to pick the best of, plus 1 new in the box drum, and 2 brand new rotors yet to do. Though I dread chinamade parts I couldn't find any thing else for the new rotors. Using the originals was out of the question as I could tell they were below spec without pulling out the mic. I'm hoping the original drums are in better shape. I hope the Chinese metal in the hub parts of the new rotors "takes" powder and retains it alright.
Ok I did finally buy some powder primer today so it'll be later in the week before I get it
I looked at powder but the pound at their offerings and they had this one primer that they're about out of stock on (they had like 7 or 8 lb of it and there was nothing there that said they have more coming or that this was all of that particular stuff they'd ever have or whatever) so I got something different. They had a high zinc and then 2 other types. I didn't get the zinc stuff because of those wheels that I eventually want to do and the zinc stuff wasn't recommended for use as a base for coating aluminum. So there was a red oxide and a gray epoxy. The red was quite cheap. Is this a "get what you pay for" deal where cheap isn't good? I don't know so I got the gray epoxy stuff coming. Somehow their testing info ( if it can be believed) claims the "salt spray" testing this stuff was tested for longer than the zinc based primer... And supposedly " held up".
I got 10 lb ( biggest amount of any single, certain powder I have bought at a time) since I can use it under any/everything else.
I'm not gonna backtrack and strip / redo anything I have done so far for the sake of adding primer underneath the color but I have some stuff to do that will be constantly exposed to weather (whatever that might be) and in the case of rotors drums backing plates for the rear end and hubs on the Dana 60 off and on heat/ cool cycles too so I thought, whether right or wrong (?) that if anything that's getting coated for this job could use "reinforcement" and "help" staying bonded it's this sort of thing.
I have 2 rear ends worth of drums hubs and backing plates to pick the best of, plus 1 new in the box drum, and 2 brand new rotors yet to do. Though I dread chinamade parts I couldn't find any thing else for the new rotors. Using the originals was out of the question as I could tell they were below spec without pulling out the mic. I'm hoping the original drums are in better shape. I hope the Chinese metal in the hub parts of the new rotors "takes" powder and retains it alright.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
Like I have said. The only time I use primer is for filling in imperfections, to cover and smooth out filler work (JB Weld), or if it is something that will be left outside like lawn art. I have never used primer on wheels or brake drums. It would never hurt, I guess, but I have never had a problem with my powder coating standing up. If there is ever any question as to the quality of the metal you are powder coating, run it through the oven far an entire heat cycle (about 20-30 minutes. That will burn off and out impurities. It is called out gassing. I have been buying all of my powder from Prismatic for several years now. Their powder is excellent and their shipping is much faster and cheaper than Eastwood.
I've done that (run my parts they the oven bare before coating) on about 1/2 of what I have coated so far to date. And on all but 1 or 2 items I've coated those parts hot out of the oven and put them back in.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
I do a lot of hot flocking myself. You have to be careful not to get the powder too thick. One advantage of hot flocking is that powder sticks really well on a hot part. So if you have any tight corners that could present a Faraday problem, hot flocking really helps.
Another question.
Sorry guys your probably getting tired of them
I finally got a pair of new rotors for my truck that are Canadian not Chinese. Look at the backside where the heads of the studs seat and the difference in casting quality among other things is huge. That's the place it's most notable.
Anyway the question
These rotors have some kind of coating (lacquer? Cosmoline? I don't know exactly) to prevent rust during storage. What's the best way to remove? I've never PCd a rotor but usually I just installed them and burned it off with the heat of the brakes. I'm only wanting to try to PC the hub portion mostly the nose that sticks thru the wheel. Obviously not the friction surfaces and not the backside of the hub.
I think back when these parts were newer it would come off with brake clean. I plan on putting them in the glass bead cabinet anyway before I PC them. Should I pre bake them?
Sorry guys your probably getting tired of them
I finally got a pair of new rotors for my truck that are Canadian not Chinese. Look at the backside where the heads of the studs seat and the difference in casting quality among other things is huge. That's the place it's most notable.
Anyway the question
These rotors have some kind of coating (lacquer? Cosmoline? I don't know exactly) to prevent rust during storage. What's the best way to remove? I've never PCd a rotor but usually I just installed them and burned it off with the heat of the brakes. I'm only wanting to try to PC the hub portion mostly the nose that sticks thru the wheel. Obviously not the friction surfaces and not the backside of the hub.
I think back when these parts were newer it would come off with brake clean. I plan on putting them in the glass bead cabinet anyway before I PC them. Should I pre bake them?
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
Here is what I would do. I would clean the entire thing off thoroughly with lacquer thinner. Then I would hit the hub part that is getting coated again with lacquer thinner. I would not worry about pre-baking (AKA Out Gassing) since the parts are new. Then I would mask off the places that are not getting coated with a combination of the orange high temp tape (mentioned back in post #131) and aluminum foil. You can use all tape, but the orange High Temp tape is not cheap. I would not hot flock. If you get the part hot with tape on it, the paint can peel back a bit while pre heating, and you can get powder in some places that should be masked. Coating the part cold should work fine. If you are concerned about the powder sticking, try heating the part up to about 160 degrees. That will be warm enough to significantly increase the powder sticking but not to allow the tape to unstick and peel away.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
I bet you will someday. You will eventually get tired of people asking you to do things that won't fit in your oven. That is what happened to me.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
I powder coated some stuff today with Chrome powder from Prismatic. Chrome powder needs better surface prep, and they are not all the same. I have found that Super Chrome Plus from Prismatic Powders (my primary powder supplier) is the best.
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