anyone here do their own powdercoating at home?

-
Well I can't do something the size of an inner wheel well .. I don't have an oven nearly big enough. Haha
 
(damn ads again interfering with my ability to post to my own thread)
Ok I did finally buy some powder primer today so it'll be later in the week before I get it
I looked at powder buy the pound at their offerings and they had this one primer that they're about out of stock on (they had like 7 or 8 lb of it and there was nothing there that said they have more coming or that this was all of that particular stuff they'd ever have or whatever) so I got something different. They had a high zinc and then 2 other types. I didn't get the zinc stuff because of those wheels that I eventually want to do and the zinc stuff wasn't recommended for use as a base for coating aluminum. So there was a red oxide and a gray epoxy. The red was quite cheap. Is this a "get what you pay for" deal where cheap isn't good? I don't know so I got the gray epoxy stuff coming. Somehow their testing info ( if it can be believed) claims the "salt spray" testing this stuff was tested for longer than the zinc based primer... And supposedly " held up".
I got 10 lb ( biggest amount of any single, certain powder I have bought at a time) since I can use it under any/everything else.
I'm not gonna backtrack and strip / redo anything I have done so far for the sake of adding primer underneath the color but I have some stuff to do that will be constantly exposed to weather (whatever that might be) and in the case of rotors drums backing plates for the rear end and hubs on the Dana 60 off and on heat/ cool cycles too so I thought, whether right or wrong (?) that if anything that's getting coated for this job could use "reinforcement" and "help" staying bonded it's this sort of thing.
I have 2 rear ends worth of drums hubs and backing plates to pick the best of, plus 1 new in the box drum, and 2 brand new rotors yet to do. Though I dread chinamade parts I couldn't find any thing else for the new rotors. Using the originals was out of the question as I could tell they were below spec without pulling out the mic. I'm hoping the original drums are in better shape. I hope the Chinese metal in the hub parts of the new rotors "takes" powder and retains it alright.
 

(damn ads again interfering with my ability to post to my own thread)
Ok I did finally buy some powder primer today so it'll be later in the week before I get it
I looked at powder buy the pound at their offerings and they had this one primer that they're about out of stock on (they had like 7 or 8 lb of it and there was nothing there that said they have more coming or that this was all of that particular stuff they'd ever have or whatever) so I got something different. They had a high zinc and then 2 other types. I didn't get the zinc stuff because of those wheels that I eventually want to do and the zinc stuff wasn't recommended for use as a base for coating aluminum. So there was a red oxide and a gray epoxy. The red was quite cheap. Is this a "get what you pay for" deal where cheap isn't good? I don't know so I got the gray epoxy stuff coming. Somehow their testing info ( if it can be believed) claims the "salt spray" testing this stuff was tested for longer than the zinc based primer... And supposedly " held up".
I got 10 lb ( biggest amount of any single, certain powder I have bought at a time) since I can use it under any/everything else.
I'm not gonna backtrack and strip / redo anything I have done so far for the sake of adding primer underneath the color but I have some stuff to do that will be constantly exposed to weather (whatever that might be) and in the case of rotors drums backing plates for the rear end and hubs on the Dana 60 off and on heat/ cool cycles too so I thought, whether right or wrong (?) that if anything that's getting coated for this job could use "reinforcement" and "help" staying bonded it's this sort of thing.
I have 2 rear ends worth of drums hubs and backing plates to pick the best of, plus 1 new in the box drum, and 2 brand new rotors yet to do. Though I dread chinamade parts I couldn't find any thing else for the new rotors. Using the originals was out of the question as I could tell they were below spec without pulling out the mic. I'm hoping the original drums are in better shape. I hope the Chinese metal in the hub parts of the new rotors "takes" powder and retains it alright.
Like I have said. The only time I use primer is for filling in imperfections, to cover and smooth out filler work (JB Weld), or if it is something that will be left outside like lawn art. I have never used primer on wheels or brake drums. It would never hurt, I guess, but I have never had a problem with my powder coating standing up. If there is ever any question as to the quality of the metal you are powder coating, run it through the oven far an entire heat cycle (about 20-30 minutes. That will burn off and out impurities. It is called out gassing. I have been buying all of my powder from Prismatic for several years now. Their powder is excellent and their shipping is much faster and cheaper than Eastwood.
 
I've done that (run my parts they the oven bare before coating) on about 1/2 of what I have coated so far to date. And on all but 1 or 2 items I've coated those parts hot out of the oven and put them back in.
 
I've done that (run my parts they the oven bare before coating) on about 1/2 of what I have coated so far to date. And on all but 1 or 2 items I've coated those parts hot out of the oven and put them back in.
I do a lot of hot flocking myself. You have to be careful not to get the powder too thick. One advantage of hot flocking is that powder sticks really well on a hot part. So if you have any tight corners that could present a Faraday problem, hot flocking really helps.
 
That's part of why I do parts hot... So I can lay down the powder heavier..,.
 
-
Back
Top Bottom