anyone here do their own powdercoating at home?

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Oh and don't judge what it will look like "baked" vs what it looks like in powder form. The darker green above looks lighter in powder form. Some pretty much look the same after they're baked as the powder in the bag/ jar looked. but not all. The black looked like dull sheen, looked like "coal dust" before it was baked.

PS for those who commented on the tape used to keep powder out of places you don't want it, I just ordered some, 3 different widths, 72 yards each roll. Got 'em from McMaster Carr as I had to order something else from them anyhow. It gave me enough to almost justify shipping on that one thing I needed from them. The closest location is just over an hour away (if you get good traffic haha) and I've never had to wait more than a day for anything I've gotten there. Sometimes next day even. I'm gonna do my calipers when I get that tape.
 
Ok slight change in plans. Gonna try some different equipment. My big 80 gallon 2 stage compressor is sick but I have some stripped parts ready to coat. For powder coating you need 5-6 psi at like 1 cfm. For kicks I stopped by my wife's work just to see what they might have. Wasn't really thinking I'd find anything for what I would want to spend. Just went in to look.
They have a stack of Crapsman 6 gallon 150 psi max pancake compressors on clearance. Something like 2.6cfm at 90 psi. Reg $179 on clearance for $100. Minus my wife's 10% minus again our "rewards" $25 credit. Total is less than I've seen people wanting for used ones on places like Craigslist and garage sales.
I do have a 25 or so gallon gas powered one here that probably needs run as well, I haven't run it yet this year. 1972 vintage binks with 8hp cast iron briggs, compressor itself is a Quincy. That's a possibility. But for that price I bought the new one.well see how that works. I've kinda been wanting a small hand carry sized compressor for repairs on the mother in laws house and such. I'm hoping that being oil less it isn't loud.
 
watching to see how that works out. neighbor was doing it for awhile but went onto other projects. he did say they used an electric oven, countertop type. he and son were doing small pieces to sell, artsy stuff I think
 
I'm mostly doing parts for my truck right now, and at that alot of stuff not regularly seen unless a person opens the hood or climbs underneath. Stuff so far that takes a beating from the elements. And stuff that will be hard to paint because of small spaces. There will be more but that's where I'm starting anyway.
I remember when you had that 80s truck listed here for sale a few years ago/ your asking price was more than right, but at the time I didn't have it. I'm basically restoring a truck much like that one. As I remember yours was an 87 3/4 ton with a v8 and a 4 speed. As I remember you scrapped it or donated it?
 
I'm mostly doing parts for my truck right now, and at that alot of stuff not regularly seen unless a person opens the hood or climbs underneath. Stuff so far that takes a beating from the elements. And stuff that will be hard to paint because of small spaces. There will be more but that's where I'm starting anyway.
I remember when you had that 80s truck listed here for sale a few years ago/ your asking price was more than right, but at the time I didn't have it. I'm basically restoring a truck much like that one. As I remember yours was an 87 3/4 ton with a v8 and a 4 speed. As I remember you scrapped it or donated it?
yes, donated it and you should see what they say they got for it at auction! I think it was $2,800!
 
That's a kick in the shorts
I was definitely wishing I had your asking price available at the time. I think I remember $700 then $550 then gone. I wouldn't have sold it again if id have gotten it, id be fixing that one up instead of building one Johnny Cash style. Those were the best trucks
 
Ok... I just did the 2nd set of hood hinges this morning. They didn't turn out as well as the other set I did a few days ago. There's places that are as glossy as the first set came out but parts of them are army green - dull/flat. The first set came out the same gloss on the whole thing.
Same batch of powder, both sets I pre baked before I coated them since they have sat a while since I blasted them. This set I baked longer before I coated them but also had more problems hanging them from the rack, I dropped this set a couple of times as I was trying to hook them to the bottom of the rack.
The difference between the sets of hinges is that the first ones I did are what was used 72-90 and I think the same as B body hinges, the 2nd set is 91-93 style with the flat ribbon spring instead of the coil spring with the hooks. If you go back early in the thread where I showed everything blasted and bare you can see the difference between them. I'm not sure which is "better" or which set I will end up using.
But im asking why these didn't have equal gloss within themselves nor compared to the first set I did?
 
On top is green #3 on right is green experiment #1 and I think the one in the middle of the bottom pic the elbow looking part pointed upward or the one to its left was green experiment #2. I re blasted all of attempt #2 except for 1 piece I did that color, just enough parts to build 1 set of hinges. Initially I took 3-1/2 sets of door hinges apart and blasted them. Definitely more than I need for just this truck. Those hood hinges are what was on I think 72-90 trucks, I have a set of the 91-93 style blasted baked and bare I'm gonna do as well. Different type of spring on the newer style yet they used the same hood as 79 up. The newer one has the flat ribbon style spring. I don't know if one type is better than the other.
While waiting for a batch of today's parts to bake in the oven I took off the shields off the spindles that I was gonna blast and prep for coating but the driver side one there isn't enough of one left to work with. So next time I get to the junkyard a set is on the list to get.

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Looks like you are getting this down pretty well… nice job!!
 
It does seem like somehow I am ending up with more waste with this newest green than what I did with the other 2 greens that weren't the right shade and a lot more waste than when I started with the black. I have the 91-93 hinges in the oven for the 2nd round and tried recoating one of my battery trays that were both originally done black, with this green. That way I can have 1 of each and decide later which one to use. these 2nd coated parts were done cold as I saw suggested somewhere online in a q&a on powdercoating, I had only previously 2nd coated 1 (well 2 of them) part previously. And those were the tailgate straps that hold the tailgate level when open, and those were redone black on black and while still warm. I'll see how these come out. Again I have the older 72-90 hood hinges that turned out beautiful on 1st try, just did the 91-93 ones because I had them bare anyway, and even if I don't use them now they won't rust.
 
Time for a color change. I have 2 sets of calipers to do now that I have the high heat tape to block off the piston bores. Though now Im finding out that paint and primer used on the frame is more durable than I thought. They were still bolted on the spindles so didn't get completely primed and painted, I want them 100% covered. I'm having trouble getting them bare again, more trouble than the rusty ones I got from a junkyard.
Not sure whether to do them black or to try this red that I have. I have 2 blacks, I have been using a semi gloss so far I have some hi gloss here too. I haven't tried that black on anything yet.
I have to find 1 more caliper dust shield as I have. 1 good and 1 not so good, those and the gas tank straps are going machine shop gray.
My front spindles likewise didn't get painted 100% im debating whether to touch them up with paint (I have some Eastwood chassis black) or whether to blast them and coat them also same query about the hub part of the new rotors I have and the rear hubs on the Dana 60. And since the drums can come off the hubs in back and be done separately I have to go thru the brakes anyways so those will be coming off) I do have 1 brand new drum if needed. So I do the drums in the gray and the hubs black, do the hubs the same green as I did the door and hood hinges (which is close to what I am having the truck painted) and the drums gray, or so the drums black, (they aren't gonna be seen as much as the hubs sticking out the centers of the wheels)
 
Well more blasting today.
Had done 1/2 of my 3rd caliper the other day, finished blasting that one and it's mate, they got half done with the frame blast and paint as the wheels partly covered them. This was the original ones off the truck. The first set I blasted was straight from the junkyard and had surface rust but was the cleanest set there for these trucks, I'm sure they were replaced shortly before the truck ended up in the yard. That set blasted so much easier. These 1/2 blasted/ painted ones off the truck blasted 1/ 2 easy and 1/2 very hard.
And I was thinking about leaving the primer on there and trying to just coat over that as I remember primer having been mentioned earlier in this thread.... It is/was some kind of 2 part epoxy. The black I painted the frame with was as well, it came off easier than the primer did but still fought me.
And the spindles before I bolt them on I was debating whether to powdercoat or to just touch them up in the "missed spots" with Eastwood chassis black or whether to blast and coat them, well I'm fighting with that epoxy primer and paint with those right now.
And when the compressor decides to send a glob of water down the line, why does it decide to do so when I'm 90% done blasting the part?
I do have a Sharpe (brand) water seperator meant for painting right off the compressor outlet and Ive drained that about once an hour...
 

I dunno if anyone else is even paying attention to this thread it's like in talking to myself
But I had to buy more of the RAL6009 fir green powder as I feel I'm gonna run out before I run out of parts I want that color ... This time I bought 5 lb (price break there) instead of the 2 lb I bought originally. I'm a little over halfway thru that first 2 lb
If I would have gotten the 5 lb first I would have had more than plenty.
Now to decide which color to do the calipers the spindles and the pitman arm... I'm thinking about doing the calipers in this red I picked up off the sale table at Eastwood, but might do machinery gray. I'm waiting for a good weather day to hit the junkyard and get some new (to me) disc brake shields as one of mine is toast and the other isn't much better. Those and the gas tank straps I am doing that color and possibly my 2nd set of calipers as well
 
I dunno if anyone else is even paying attention to this thread it's like in talking to myself
But I had to buy more of the RAL6009 fir green powder as I feel I'm gonna run out before I run out of parts I want that color ... This time I bought 5 lb (price break there) instead of the 2 lb I bought originally. I'm a little over halfway thru that first 2 lb
If I would have gotten the 5 lb first I would have had more than plenty.
Now to decide which color to do the calipers the spindles and the pitman arm... I'm thinking about doing the calipers in this red I picked up off the sale table at Eastwood, but might do machinery gray. I'm waiting for a good weather day to hit the junkyard and get some new (to me) disc brake shields as one of mine is toast and the other isn't much better. Those and the gas tank straps I am doing that color and possibly my 2nd set of calipers as well
I have been following you somewhat on your projects… it looks like trial air for you and that’s the best way to get really good at something…
 
The powdercoat is going good /the biggest trial and error so far has been the color selection.
I've had problems when blasting with water in the lines periodically over the years but mostly when it's hot + humid out.
Just like picking paint for your kitchen the samples I have gotten/seen in finished powdercoating doesn't match my results, took me 3 greens to get the one I wanted.
Next question is about the front spindles,calipers and brake brackets and the bolts that hold them all together which colors to make them. I was originally thinking black for the spindles and caliper brackets and machine gray for the calipers
Or should I do the spindles and brake brackets machine gray and the calipers red?
 
The powdercoat is going good /the biggest trial and error so far has been the color selection.
I've had problems when blasting with water in the lines periodically over the years but mostly when it's hot + humid out.
Just like picking paint for your kitchen the samples I have gotten/seen in finished powdercoating doesn't match my results, took me 3 greens to get the one I wanted.
Next question is about the front spindles,calipers and brake brackets and the bolts that hold them all together which colors to make them. I was originally thinking black for the spindles and caliper brackets and machine gray for the calipers
Or should I do the spindles and brake brackets machine gray and the calipers red?
I do machine grey for LCA and spindles. Do hammer tone on my A/C box and black texture on the K Member to hide all imperfections in the stamped metal…

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Well I didn't take the control arms off. They were blasted and painted with the frame "plenty good enough".
As difficult of a time as I had blasting the paint off the spindles calipers and brake caliper brackets that did get painted I'm not fighting that fight with the control arms. They will stay chassis black. Back when I owned this truck the first time I had it, I replaced the control arm bushings on it with poly ones and they still look great. At that time I replaced everything in the front end except the ball joints. Springs, tie rods sleeves idler arm and center link, all of it. So I did the ball joints this time and am replacing all the linkage again because I have it... I have a couple of trucks worth of those parts in the attic.
If I wasn't planning on towing with this truck being the #1 priority I wouldn't be replacing the steering linkage again.
I'm not throwing it out, I have an 85 half ton with a/6 that can use it....
 
Well I didn't take the control arms off. They were blasted and painted with the frame "plenty good enough".
As difficult of a time as I had blasting the paint off the spindles calipers and brake caliper brackets that did get painted I'm not fighting that fight with the control arms. They will stay chassis black. Back when I owned this truck the first time I had it, I replaced the control arm bushings on it with poly ones and they still look great. At that time I replaced everything in the front end except the ball joints. Springs, tie rods sleeves idler arm and center link, all of it. So I did the ball joints this time and am replacing all the linkage again because I have it... I have a couple of trucks worth of those parts in the attic.
If I wasn't planning on towing with this truck being the #1 priority I wouldn't be replacing the steering linkage again.
I'm not throwing it out, I have an 85 half ton with a/6 that can use it....
I have an 89 1/2 ton 4.3 V-6 86000 miles I bought it brand new recently having issues with smoking it but getting through it. It’s my work truck for weekends it’s a Chevy C1500 stick….
 
Ok guys if you're out there
I did both sets of calipers tonight one set is done and cooled. The other set is still in the oven
I did them 2 at a time
I coated them then baked them, (longer than the "20 minutes") took them out, powdered them again and baked them again....
The 2nd set is in for its 2nd bake session. I haven't paid too much attention to the clock, but they've been in there about a 1/2 hour/ maybe more on the 2nd bake. I just shut the oven off.
On the first pair my wife had to go to the store and needed gas so I went with. Needed something at tractor supply anyway. I had shut down the oven and cracked open the door and let the first set cool and they were still quite warm when we got back. I ended up doing them in red. Then after I did the first set I thought it was a dumb idea for a color since everyone with their ricers paints their calipers red. But they're done. The oven is unplugged but I'm gonna just leave the 2nd set in there to cool overnight til I get home from work tomorrow. As good a place as any to let them cool. I ended up putting pistons in to coat and bake them, that expensive azz green tape don't stick worth a damn. It barely sticks to itself. I have a little bit of hardened powder to get out of the seal grooves, not all the way around. I worked on the first set a little doing that with a single edge razor blade. Got most of it.
Next question has to do with holding up to brake fluid. I was looking at PC type primers and in the descriptions (they had a zinc rich and an epoxy) especially on the zinc ones said something about being better for chemical exposure. Should I have primed these? I basically did with a base layer of the exact same powder you see.
I know if I'd have painted them no matter what I would have painted them with that brake fluid would eat the paint off pretty readily.
I had to get some (hopefully good) used disc brake shields from feebay yesterday, they're not here yet/ but the local junkyard puts all their stock on their belly without wheels and the rotors dig Into the ground and bend up and disintegrate/ turn to rust dust. Once those get here I have those plus a few pieces to do machinery gray.
And then it's back to black for the bolt heads that hold the spindles together and the brake brackets to the spindles.

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Here's the 2nd pair still hanging in the oven
And the powder they had on the sale table, the day I took the class

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Don't know if I'm happy with it yet
I wanna see how well it holds up first
I know that I'm not happy with that expensive tape that's supposed to keep powder out of where I don't want it
I do know that even though their own posts (Eastwood) talk about how long to leave something in the oven that say 20 minutes after flow out, the guy who ran the class said 20 minutes in the oven "total" was plenty, which I was going closer to that the first couple of things I did, as I have gone on with this I've left stuff in the heat longer and longer ... not paying that close of attention to how long it's been in there.
Though these calipers are the most recent things I have done and they are solid cast iron not "regular" steel. I did "pre bake" these calipers like 2 weeks ago to make sure the brake fluid was out of the pores/ but haven't been able to get back to them til last night... I also soaked them with the Eastwood "pre" back when I pre baked them i probably should have sprayed them again just before I coated them but I didn't.... Most of what I've done so far had sat weeks to months between sandblasting and coating, in a couple of totes. Don't know if that's good or not. Probably not
 
Don't know if I'm happy with it yet
I wanna see how well it holds up first
I know that I'm not happy with that expensive tape that's supposed to keep powder out of where I don't want it
I do know that even though their own posts (Eastwood) talk about how long to leave something in the oven that say 20 minutes after flow out, the guy who ran the class said 20 minutes in the oven "total" was plenty, which I was going closer to that the first couple of things I did, as I have gone on with this I've left stuff in the heat longer and longer ... not paying that close of attention to how long it's been in there.
Though these calipers are the most recent things I have done and they are solid cast iron not "regular" steel. I did "pre bake" these calipers like 2 weeks ago to make sure the brake fluid was out of the pores/ but haven't been able to get back to them til last night... I also soaked them with the Eastwood "pre" back when I pre baked them i probably should have sprayed them again just before I coated them but I didn't.... Most of what I've done so far had sat weeks to months between sandblasting and coating, in a couple of totes. Don't know if that's good or not. Probably not
I would say if it took good and didn't fisheye or anything weird it should be good with my experience painting. Don't know what powder does if its dirty reacting....
 
I did the caliper brackets and bolt heads that hold them on, black last night. Came out pretty good. Still semi gloss. I haven't gotten into the gloss black yet.
I have also been watching a used (doesn't look "very" used) Eastwood powder gun on feebay. By the packaging though I can tell that it is. I think it's a single voltage but it was reasonable vs what Eastwood wants for the new version from them, though I haven't bought or used any dedicated "powder primer" yet I wound up buying this one figured id use it for future coating jobs as a dedicated "primer gun". Tomorrow I hope to get the front end all back together and maybe build up my door hinges... I got some aerosol Eastwood rust encapsulator and hit a couple of spots that I missed with my paint spray gun when I painted the frame...
This 80* yesterday and 50* outside today and tomorrow is crazy, I don't remember a year with so many swings like this as we are having this year. So i'll be doing "Inside" work with the garage closed up for a couple of days before 80* comes back
I have a couple of windows that I have to replace on the garage, I'll wait til Tuesday to start that when it's supposed to go back to 80* again
 
I did the caliper brackets and bolt heads that hold them on, black last night. Came out pretty good. Still semi gloss. I haven't gotten into the gloss black yet.
I have also been watching a used (doesn't look "very" used) Eastwood powder gun on feebay. By the packaging though I can tell that it is. I think it's a single voltage but it was reasonable vs what Eastwood wants for the new version from them, though I haven't bought or used any dedicated "powder primer" yet I wound up buying this one figured id use it for future coating jobs as a dedicated "primer gun". Tomorrow I hope to get the front end all back together and maybe build up my door hinges... I got some aerosol Eastwood rust encapsulator and hit a couple of spots that I missed with my paint spray gun when I painted the frame...
This 80* yesterday and 50* outside today and tomorrow is crazy, I don't remember a year with so many swings like this as we are having this year. So i'll be doing "Inside" work with the garage closed up for a couple of days before 80* comes back
I have a couple of windows that I have to replace on the garage, I'll wait til Tuesday to start that when it's supposed to go back to 80* again
I like colder weather seems like less dirt you have fast dry reducer on your side but you have to deal still with slow drying time . So you’re powdering bolt heads?
 
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