Answer: Use masking tape inside of the bore, then after coating, just remove the tape...then cook.
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anyone here do their own powdercoating at home?
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B Body70
Well-Known Member
Yes sir you did show your bare parts earlier. I think that’s right on you are doing your own. I’m kinda guy that likes doing things myself but I have too much work on two cars just bite the bullet and have my parts done but I do prep but seems like it doesn’t really make a big savings doing it…. Good job!!
B Body70
Well-Known Member
Hi temp tape
So would sticking a piston in there not gonna work for some reason?
Where besides Eastwood do I get hi temp tape
Regular masking tape work?
I have no choice but to do my own as much as possible if I want to have anything.
For the difference in price DIY vs "take and have done".... I don't know how I haven't had a stroke with some of the quotes I have had to have things done
I have a lot of "screw up room" and still wind up cheaper.and learn from the different experiences along the way. Cheaper than "body shop school" or having everything done.
. Every time I do manage to have to pay for something to get done I always feel cheated at least.... always wind up pissed at what I (didn't) get for the money.
For $400 id have let either place do this for me... Compared to what I paid to have that 4-foot snowblower housing done just before COVID and that was with them doing everything including sandblasting and prep I actually figured this pile of small parts would be around $250-300 "done". Not triple that.
I'm still stroking out about what they told me the paint work would cost on this thing and that was with me bringing them a bare body and no frame, no masking needed, no assembly, no glass work... That is in an indefinite hold even without them telling me so after this crazy hail storm we just had with a EF3 tornado hitting too close for comfort... Ive never been this close to anything like it. Tons and tons of insurance work, I don't need anyone telling me that my project will be sitting.,.. even if it weren't for that, they know I want to be fully involved in the process... I've known the shop owners parents and grandparents for 35 years now.
So if nothing else it at least bought me time to do what parts of it in doing here at home
I was aggravated with my son all winter as I painted the frame at his house in the field next to his house (in the country) and I have wanted him to bring me the rolling frame since October before the first snow. It finally got here 2 weekends ago. But I'm wanting to know every nut bolt and wiring crimp that happens on this thing. I have a better cab here than the one I took them originally, that wasn't near as nice as we first thought, the sandblaster guy uncovered a lot of surprises. So I went and found another cab that I have here now.
I had a lot of time and materials in that first cab, I guess I can chalk up to experience. Buying this 2nd cab will actually save me money vs the time they are going to have to put into my other cab.
Ok I gotta go back out and pull this batch of parts out of the oven
Where besides Eastwood do I get hi temp tape
Regular masking tape work?
I have no choice but to do my own as much as possible if I want to have anything.
For the difference in price DIY vs "take and have done".... I don't know how I haven't had a stroke with some of the quotes I have had to have things done
I have a lot of "screw up room" and still wind up cheaper.and learn from the different experiences along the way. Cheaper than "body shop school" or having everything done.
. Every time I do manage to have to pay for something to get done I always feel cheated at least.... always wind up pissed at what I (didn't) get for the money.
For $400 id have let either place do this for me... Compared to what I paid to have that 4-foot snowblower housing done just before COVID and that was with them doing everything including sandblasting and prep I actually figured this pile of small parts would be around $250-300 "done". Not triple that.
I'm still stroking out about what they told me the paint work would cost on this thing and that was with me bringing them a bare body and no frame, no masking needed, no assembly, no glass work... That is in an indefinite hold even without them telling me so after this crazy hail storm we just had with a EF3 tornado hitting too close for comfort... Ive never been this close to anything like it. Tons and tons of insurance work, I don't need anyone telling me that my project will be sitting.,.. even if it weren't for that, they know I want to be fully involved in the process... I've known the shop owners parents and grandparents for 35 years now.
So if nothing else it at least bought me time to do what parts of it in doing here at home
I was aggravated with my son all winter as I painted the frame at his house in the field next to his house (in the country) and I have wanted him to bring me the rolling frame since October before the first snow. It finally got here 2 weekends ago. But I'm wanting to know every nut bolt and wiring crimp that happens on this thing. I have a better cab here than the one I took them originally, that wasn't near as nice as we first thought, the sandblaster guy uncovered a lot of surprises. So I went and found another cab that I have here now.
I had a lot of time and materials in that first cab, I guess I can chalk up to experience. Buying this 2nd cab will actually save me money vs the time they are going to have to put into my other cab.
Ok I gotta go back out and pull this batch of parts out of the oven
I’ve been thinking of doing this to. I have a DOT aggregate heater (rocks) it was in the big van when bought. The thing is big, two doors that open out with box 40” wide and 50” high and 24” deep. I’m sure it’s electric. A lot of fans, dials and gauges on top. Has 3 stretched wire shelves. I could put it outside with a little enclosure. Now I’ll have to figure how to get it out of the box truck. I will keep reading these post for insights.
LOL, it’s been in the van for 25 years, now that I’m retired this could make me some pocket change, S/S ain’t making it.
64mopar
Well-Known Member
Don
You can get high heat tape and silicone plugs from scamazon.
You can get high heat tape and silicone plugs from scamazon.
Or you might be able to use that metal tape the heating and cooling guys use on ductwork.
grimreaper
Cross Member
I've been coating for several years as I (and a few of my friends) need stuff coated. I do CeraKote too. I started with a kitchen oven form a garage sale and quickly decided I needed more room so I built a 4 x 4 x 6. My main source for supplies, including tapes and plugs, is Columbia Powder Coating. Powders Archives - Columbia Coatings - Powder Coating Equipment & Supplies I wash most of my parts with an iron phosphate solution after blasting. It promotes adhesion and stops surface rust or any rust under the powder coat. It used to be readily available but since the phosphate ban and the increased use by lithium ion batteries it is difficult to find, and expensive. The last bit I was able to find was some slug and snail killer at a garden store. (99% iron phosphate) Now they can no longer get it. So, I don't know what I'll do when this runs out.
Some photos of a little run I did with orange....
Some photos of a little run I did with orange....
B Body70
Well-Known Member
That is so bad ***!! I heard there is a high temp powder coating too. Is that what you used on these?
I like that carb, how hard was it to do?
What is cerakote?
And where can I get 70s Mopar engine blue powder? I don't see it anywhere.
Hell, Eastwood even has AMC engine ppowder and Ford light and dark blue, AMC is even more obscure than Mopar ever was .. but no Mopar blue. I have some valve covers, timing cover etc is like to do...
And where can I get 70s Mopar engine blue powder? I don't see it anywhere.
Hell, Eastwood even has AMC engine ppowder and Ford light and dark blue, AMC is even more obscure than Mopar ever was .. but no Mopar blue. I have some valve covers, timing cover etc is like to do...
furyus2
Well-Known Member
I have been doing my own powder coating for about 30 years. I just use the Eastwood kit, with an electric kitchen oven. I have a blast cabinet, and use the black oxide for good bight. I blast the parts, mount them on the oven rack, wash the parts with brake clean, as it's cheap, and evaporates quickly. Then I pre heat the parts, and then I powder coat the parts. I haven't upgraded my equipment, since it does everything that I need.
Dartsun
Mopar Dude
Our local powdercoaters use rubber plugs and this green high temp tape kinda a thick plastic tape. Goes in the oven with the parts.
Just did the rest of the parts I (so far) want satin black. I'm sure there will be more. Only have my calipers left that I wanted black. Or should I do them red? Or machine gray? Or they had 1 bag left of this cool gold color on the clearance table I thought about grabbing. I do have some red powder.
I got the machine gray for the gas tank straps and the disc brake splash shields. But have way more than powder than those will take to do
I was quoted $625 locally just to have these black parts done and that's with me bringing them in blasted clean already meaning they don't have to. I'm way way way under that amount spent. And the time I have in it isn't bad.
I got the machine gray for the gas tank straps and the disc brake splash shields. But have way more than powder than those will take to do
I was quoted $625 locally just to have these black parts done and that's with me bringing them in blasted clean already meaning they don't have to. I'm way way way under that amount spent. And the time I have in it isn't bad.
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Pix 2 and 3 are actually probably reversed.
Pic 1 is a gas tank cross member gusset that I actually got out of the junkyard as the driver side one on mine was Swiss cheese.
Pic 3 is an aftermarket cab mount bracket coated, #2 is that bracket mounted
Pic 1 is a gas tank cross member gusset that I actually got out of the junkyard as the driver side one on mine was Swiss cheese.
Pic 3 is an aftermarket cab mount bracket coated, #2 is that bracket mounted
furyus2
Well-Known Member
Did they give a reason? I haven't had any issues with brake clean.
furyus2
Well-Known Member
I make sure that it's all evaporated before I powder coat. The one time that I didn't dry the part properly, it ruined the coating. Also, I use the non chlorinated brake clean. Maybe that's the difference?
Now next time I'm in the garage onto using green powder... I got one green from Eastwood, came from the big brown truck, forgot their name for the color, I saw that one on their site. Then I saw one that I really liked while in the store, so I bought that pound of powder. They had 3x5 pieces of sheet metal as samples of every color they had in stock above the powder rack. That's where I found the color green I bought in store. It's pouring now, no I ain't going into the garage to get those powder bags for the name haha... The first thing they did when I took that class was to put a 12x12 (approx) piece of tinfoil in the "booth" coated that for a demo, and passed it around when done cooking. It was said that this was actually a good way to do a test spray when picking a color. Gonna have to get the names off the powder bags then go to their site and compare them.
I have my cabinet loaded up with glass beads. It seems to work fine though not as much "tooth* as black beauty or garnet sand or coal slag would have but seems to work
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