Any idea what this green tape is or where to get?
With my calipers can I just stick a piston in without seals and use that?
anyone here do their own powdercoating at home?
- Thread starter volaredon
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With my calipers can I just stick a piston in without seals and use that?
Dartsun
Mopar Dude
I can take a picture of what it looks like and see if there is a brand when I goto the shop on Tuesday. I use it for hydraulic tubes that have O-ring boss seals, I tape them up and they come back clean.
grimreaper
Cross Member
Green Poly High Temp Tapes - Columbia Coatings - Powder Coating Equipment & Supplies
Many more tapes on this site too....
grimreaper
Cross Member
You can crumple aluminum foil and push it into spaces you don't want powder to go for odd sized or shaped cavities.
grimreaper
Cross Member
Just the headers. It's a show only Mustang so I don't really know how it holds up if actually driven normal distances.
grimreaper
Cross Member
Just has to be disassembled and extra care taken to ensure powder only goes where you want it. Otherwise, not difficult.
grimreaper
Cross Member
You can probably find a blue here that would be close enough to Mopar Blue that no one could tell the difference.
RAL 5000 Series Archives - Columbia Coatings - Powder Coating Equipment & Supplies
They've got many more blues in other groups too. I looked to see what I use for Mopar Blue but I didn't write on the bottle.
RAL 5000 Series Archives - Columbia Coatings - Powder Coating Equipment & Supplies
They've got many more blues in other groups too. I looked to see what I use for Mopar Blue but I didn't write on the bottle.
Well I was wrong on measurements.
It’s over all 60” wide x 72” tall and 33” deep. Then there’s the controls and gauges on a 12” tall panel at top. Inside is 52x52x26”, bigger than I thought. Only thing I see would be heating the whole area. I’m thinking a propane heating element inside to get it up quickly, turn that off and let electric take over. Doors are 4” thick insulated so I’m guess the same insulation all around the box.
It’s over all 60” wide x 72” tall and 33” deep. Then there’s the controls and gauges on a 12” tall panel at top. Inside is 52x52x26”, bigger than I thought. Only thing I see would be heating the whole area. I’m thinking a propane heating element inside to get it up quickly, turn that off and let electric take over. Doors are 4” thick insulated so I’m guess the same insulation all around the box.
I've always heard that you have to use electric heat. I thought it was the open flame of gas going kablooey with the fumes but found out it isn't that so much
Ever noticed when running a torpedo type heater the moisture that brings out? Any kind of gas heat puts off moisture, which is sorta like water in an air line screwing up a paint job
Ever noticed when running a torpedo type heater the moisture that brings out? Any kind of gas heat puts off moisture, which is sorta like water in an air line screwing up a paint job
furyus2
Well-Known Member
Eastwood sells a high temp tape.
You can use anything that gives the coverage you want that will take the heat. I use aluminum foil, and the high temp silicone plugs that Eastwood sells. If you put a piston in there to powder coat, then it will take a lot of effort to remove the coating from the piston. Unless it's a spare one.
You can also find powder, and other coating products on Amazon
I've been doing the same as you, still using the 1st Eastwood gun that came out decades ago, still using a '70's era kitchen oven. I bead blast the part, spray it down with brake cleaner, then immediately blow it off with compressed air. Never had a bad part in all these years. Maybe they say not to use brake cleaner is just for liability reasons since chlorinated is still being sold.
furyus2
Well-Known Member
Maybe you have never had an issue, but I've screwed up my share.
I've had a couple of pieces on the edges that won't take powder. I did a couple of things over the weekend that I took out, applied a 2nd coat and put back in the heat. Took the 2nd time. And where the "Faraday" happens in back corners isn't where I've had it.
I have 2 sets of Dodge truck door hinges apart in pieces and 2 different greens that look the same in pix online at the Eastwood site, only difference in description is one says 85% gloss while other says 95%. In the oven as they melt in they definitely look more different than in the pix on the site. I couldn't get the 2 side by side in the pix though. I bought the "mirror green" after I saw the sample above all the powders, those I did in that color don't look like what I remember of the sample in the store. The dark green doesn't seem that dark yet. I'm trying to get close to what il painting the truck, know it won't be exact but hopefully close. On door and hood hinges I don't mind a little contrast.
I have 2 sets of Dodge truck door hinges apart in pieces and 2 different greens that look the same in pix online at the Eastwood site, only difference in description is one says 85% gloss while other says 95%. In the oven as they melt in they definitely look more different than in the pix on the site. I couldn't get the 2 side by side in the pix though. I bought the "mirror green" after I saw the sample above all the powders, those I did in that color don't look like what I remember of the sample in the store. The dark green doesn't seem that dark yet. I'm trying to get close to what il painting the truck, know it won't be exact but hopefully close. On door and hood hinges I don't mind a little contrast.
Ok I did half of my door hinges in each of the greens I got from Eastwood. Nice colors very close to each other but not close enough to the color code I gave the body shop to paint the truck. So back to the drawing board
I ordered some different powder from a company that I found on Google I tried ordering from another and kept getting kicked back to redo one of those bull$#it capcha things. I tried about 6x and gave up on Columbia powder supply. So I have it coming somewhere else. Got into this RAL color deal and saw several shades for this one code.... Then others (paint code numbers) would pop up and id have to Google one vs the other. I don't know if Eastwood's are related/ cross over to this RAL color system. I found it by the paint company PPG but I have no use for 80 lb of the stuff even if I could find an oven big enough for my truck body. So I didn't/couldn't order there. I tried prismatic and it kept coming up to log I to "my account" with a company I've never heard of meaning I don't have an account there. 2 day shipping from San Fran will give me time to re blast these parts unless I decide to coat over what I have so far and use this other green as a "primer" of sorts. On my black parts I double coated a couple of pieces, namely the tailgate straps and it seemed to work fine. The underside as they hung in my makeshift "spray booth" ended up a little light/weakly coated in the green hue I have gotten so far.
I'm going for early 80s Dodge truck dark green I believe (if I'm remembering right) PPG paint code DT7947. I ended up buying some RAL6009 powder to try and get closer to that.
The other green I was thinking about is the brand new bronco green, Ford calls "eruption green".
But it would drive me nuts knowing my Dodge would be painted in a "Ford" color...both green powders I have (one is called "dark green") are really close to Rust-Oleum green in which I originally painted my utility trailer with. The powders I have here look the same besides gloss level
I'll look at them again tomorrow when cool. I didn't look too hard when they were hot out of the oven. They're definitely cool by now but I gotta hit the sack if in gonna get able to get up for work in 6 hours
I ordered some different powder from a company that I found on Google I tried ordering from another and kept getting kicked back to redo one of those bull$#it capcha things. I tried about 6x and gave up on Columbia powder supply. So I have it coming somewhere else. Got into this RAL color deal and saw several shades for this one code.... Then others (paint code numbers) would pop up and id have to Google one vs the other. I don't know if Eastwood's are related/ cross over to this RAL color system. I found it by the paint company PPG but I have no use for 80 lb of the stuff even if I could find an oven big enough for my truck body. So I didn't/couldn't order there. I tried prismatic and it kept coming up to log I to "my account" with a company I've never heard of meaning I don't have an account there. 2 day shipping from San Fran will give me time to re blast these parts unless I decide to coat over what I have so far and use this other green as a "primer" of sorts. On my black parts I double coated a couple of pieces, namely the tailgate straps and it seemed to work fine. The underside as they hung in my makeshift "spray booth" ended up a little light/weakly coated in the green hue I have gotten so far.
I'm going for early 80s Dodge truck dark green I believe (if I'm remembering right) PPG paint code DT7947. I ended up buying some RAL6009 powder to try and get closer to that.
The other green I was thinking about is the brand new bronco green, Ford calls "eruption green".
But it would drive me nuts knowing my Dodge would be painted in a "Ford" color...both green powders I have (one is called "dark green") are really close to Rust-Oleum green in which I originally painted my utility trailer with. The powders I have here look the same besides gloss level
I'll look at them again tomorrow when cool. I didn't look too hard when they were hot out of the oven. They're definitely cool by now but I gotta hit the sack if in gonna get able to get up for work in 6 hours
Ok another question time.
We've talked about a primer coat, whether to prime or not, and I've seen powder "primer" advertised by the places that sell powder. I also coated my tailgate straps 2nd time with the same black I used originally right after coating them the first time.tgey were still hot when I put the 2nd coat on.
I coated all my door hinge parts last night and they came out nice but not "dark enough". I've got a different shade of green coming.
A Few spots of what l put on last night came out a little thin once done. Do I have to strip these again (blast cabinet. !or can I just consider what I did last night as a "primer," and go over them again with this darker green and be alright (meaning coating job will last, not peel, etc);
We've talked about a primer coat, whether to prime or not, and I've seen powder "primer" advertised by the places that sell powder. I also coated my tailgate straps 2nd time with the same black I used originally right after coating them the first time.tgey were still hot when I put the 2nd coat on.
I coated all my door hinge parts last night and they came out nice but not "dark enough". I've got a different shade of green coming.
A Few spots of what l put on last night came out a little thin once done. Do I have to strip these again (blast cabinet. !or can I just consider what I did last night as a "primer," and go over them again with this darker green and be alright (meaning coating job will last, not peel, etc);
Dartsun
Mopar Dude
Here is the tape we use.
furyus2
Well-Known Member
I've never been able to do another coat after the part cools. I end up stripping it, and doing it again. FYI, Eastwood has videos on powder coating. You can see if there's anything that can help.
Now I don't remember where (probably on one of the sites that sell powder, when I was trying to "guess" at a different shade of green that would be a closer match to the paint code I gave the body shop)
But somewhere I read you could recoat over an initial powder job "after the first one cools"..
I wish I remember where I saw it, but it was after I posted that question
But somewhere I read you could recoat over an initial powder job "after the first one cools"..
I wish I remember where I saw it, but it was after I posted that question
Ok I haven't redone my hinges yet just got this other powder in the mail yesterday. After they cooled and I gathered all the parts I did green together I saw that within each batch of green parts the color actually varies quite a bit. More among each pile of green parts than between the 2 different colors/ batches of green.
If that makes sense.
One batch Eastwood called dark green, the other they called mirror green. The mirror green parts seemed to vary between parts I did that color than the ones I did "dark green".
I ordered the dark green with my powder gun.
I bought the mirror green after seeing it on a sample plate in the store. My parts don't look like the piece done in that color in the store. Huh.
The "dark green" looks more like John Deere green though they do have a "tractor green"
I haven't seen that one, could be oliver green or JD green. The "mirror green" looks like the same as dark green only with more gloss.
Why would parts done out of the same bag of powder come out looking different?
What can I do to make everything done out of the same batch of a given color look like it was done from the same bag of powder?
If that makes sense.
One batch Eastwood called dark green, the other they called mirror green. The mirror green parts seemed to vary between parts I did that color than the ones I did "dark green".
I ordered the dark green with my powder gun.
I bought the mirror green after seeing it on a sample plate in the store. My parts don't look like the piece done in that color in the store. Huh.
The "dark green" looks more like John Deere green though they do have a "tractor green"
I haven't seen that one, could be oliver green or JD green. The "mirror green" looks like the same as dark green only with more gloss.
Why would parts done out of the same bag of powder come out looking different?
What can I do to make everything done out of the same batch of a given color look like it was done from the same bag of powder?
Here's green #3 on the door hinge parts which are hanging to cool. I have 1 hood hinge hanging outside the oven the other still in the oven with the oven unplugged and the door propped as I had to go get the wife from work and stopped by cracker barrel on way home... Those hinges shown are real close to what the rest of the truck is gonna be.
I got this green from somewhere besides Eastwood and I noticed a different in how thick of a coat I was able to apply. Though I did preheat everything I coated today which may play a part. I have 2 battery trays done black, I might do one green and decide later which one to use on the truck. If I get a minute maybe I'll take a pic of the first green I did the other set of door hinges
I got this green from somewhere besides Eastwood and I noticed a different in how thick of a coat I was able to apply. Though I did preheat everything I coated today which may play a part. I have 2 battery trays done black, I might do one green and decide later which one to use on the truck. If I get a minute maybe I'll take a pic of the first green I did the other set of door hinges
On top is green #3 on right is green experiment #1 and I think the one in the middle of the bottom pic the elbow looking part pointed upward or the one to its left was green experiment #2. I re blasted all of attempt #2 except for 1 piece I did that color, just enough parts to build 1 set of hinges. Initially I took 3-1/2 sets of door hinges apart and blasted them. Definitely more than I need for just this truck. Those hood hinges are what was on I think 72-90 trucks, I have a set of the 91-93 style blasted baked and bare I'm gonna do as well. Different type of spring on the newer style yet they used the same hood as 79 up. The newer one has the flat ribbon style spring. I don't know if one type is better than the other.
While waiting for a batch of today's parts to bake in the oven I took off the shields off the spindles that I was gonna blast and prep for coating but the driver side one there isn't enough of one left to work with. So next time I get to the junkyard a set is on the list to get.
While waiting for a batch of today's parts to bake in the oven I took off the shields off the spindles that I was gonna blast and prep for coating but the driver side one there isn't enough of one left to work with. So next time I get to the junkyard a set is on the list to get.
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In the bottom picture of the lighter green you see some spots I missed or didn't get as heavy a voting of powder on before baking. Somehow this darker powder covered much better, let me pile it on heavier. The lighter stuff is Eastwood powder the darker stuff came from a place called (something like) "abrasive powder and supply" I forget the exact name, I can check/just don't have it in front of me.
I did find a little bigger box at work for a "spray booth" the other day, and it was a double box so it's stronger to hold the weight on my makeshift hook I made out of a coat hanger to hang the parts on to spray the powder onto. And the hanging hook still went thru 1 layer of *box" like it did on the 1st box I had for a "booth". I'm gonna have to weld a couple more "legs" onto the top side of my hanging hook to spread the weight. Live and learn.
My wife was laughing at me while at cracker barrel as I guess my forehead and hair line is green like the hulk from powder bouncing back at me
I did find a little bigger box at work for a "spray booth" the other day, and it was a double box so it's stronger to hold the weight on my makeshift hook I made out of a coat hanger to hang the parts on to spray the powder onto. And the hanging hook still went thru 1 layer of *box" like it did on the 1st box I had for a "booth". I'm gonna have to weld a couple more "legs" onto the top side of my hanging hook to spread the weight. Live and learn.
My wife was laughing at me while at cracker barrel as I guess my forehead and hair line is green like the hulk from powder bouncing back at me
So let me get this straight, you heat the parts first? Did you remove the spring on hood hinges, or leave it stretched to get paint in and around? I need to buy the gun, which one? What air supply is used? Does it take more paint then spraying with normal paint gun? More questions coming
no, powder goes a long way. I bought the Eastwood dual voltage gun, use the "high" setting mostly// they go on sale often. I get multiple emails from them now, daily. and it seems a different price in each one. about $99-109 seems the cheapest I've seen it. sometimes they bundle extra bottles, silicone plugs for places you don't want powder, a spool of stainless wire to make hanging hooks for, (hang parts off of the underside of the top oven rack)
there are others. I saw one at horror freight even and they have powder in 2 colors, black and white in stock. I didn't look close enough to see if flat sheen, semi gloss, hi gloss etc. I don't spend much time or money at Horror freight.
it's not paint, its powder. and I think you use less material than if you had painted. especially once you get the hang of it.
a small pancake air comp like you'd use with a shingle nail gun is plenty of compressor for this... you use about 5-6 psi, put a regulator right on the gun.
heat the parts first "sometimes". depends. like if there's small nooks and crannies you want powder to seep into, or it had oil/grease/brake fluid in or on it, so far it doesn't seem to hurt anything I've done, to preheat. just gotta be careful handling hot parts in n out of the oven.
clean up is way easier than with a regular paint gun. just blow out with air.
i asked this at the class I went to 2 Saturdays ago, at the local Eastwood store. even though they are Eastwood employees who (understandably) would be expected to push "their" line of products, but they said "powder is powder" Alot of online places sell the same colors as each other, some have more than others.
I discovered a standardized color system in looking for a certain shade of color, I think it originated in Europe. The system is called "RAL" and for example #6009 green at one company is exactly the same #6009 green at another. and I saw actual "touch up paint" in exactly the same color as the powder. I think all greens start with "60xx" I think blues are #50xx. etc I don't believe Eastwood goes by that system but they might be able to at least cross. I did notice that the one green I bought was called "mirror green". Their stock numbers have 5 digits. I did see "mirror green" at several of the places I went to online. If you're trying to compare RAL system colors, you can punch in the search line at google etc (for example) #6005 green vs #6009. or "#6009 vs 6028" and it will pop up a rectangle split down the middle that's 1/2 each shade you're wanting. with a pretty good description of each color. Eastwood apparently didn't have the shade I wanted. at least not in stock. they have a 3x5 "coupon" piece of sheet metal of each color they stock above the in store display. I picked up the "mirror green" in store because of these samples, and though it was a week ago I seen their sample and bought the pouch of "mirror green," my results didn't look like what I remember the sample in the store looked. The store employee that ran the class said they themselves coated those sample plates that hung in their store. Though when I did that round, I noticed afterwards my parts I did that color, the coating was a little "weak" or "thin" in spots. I had enough that weren't "thin" looking, to tell what that color really is supposed to look like, and that just putting a 2nd coat onto wouldn't fix (get me to the color I wanted) Don't get me wrong... it was a real cool looking color but way too far from the paint code I gave the body shop that I want my truck to be. so I re blasted them, and redid them in the powder that I got in the mail.
With the quotes I got to drop off my parts and pick them up "done", I can afford to mis tint or otherwise have to redo ALOT before I come close to what I was quoted! Even with buying the gun and the oven.
speaking of "thin" or "missed" spots I had a couple of parts while I was doing black (my first time ever doing this), they were actually the straps that hold tour tailgate level on 70s/80s trucks. I stuck them back in my home made "booth" while hot and put a 2nd coat of the same stuff on them and baked them again, big improvement.
The next time I'm doing black, I have 2 sets of calipers I want to do. now those I'll have to pre bake before I coat them because of the brake fluid. .
there are others. I saw one at horror freight even and they have powder in 2 colors, black and white in stock. I didn't look close enough to see if flat sheen, semi gloss, hi gloss etc. I don't spend much time or money at Horror freight.
it's not paint, its powder. and I think you use less material than if you had painted. especially once you get the hang of it.
a small pancake air comp like you'd use with a shingle nail gun is plenty of compressor for this... you use about 5-6 psi, put a regulator right on the gun.
heat the parts first "sometimes". depends. like if there's small nooks and crannies you want powder to seep into, or it had oil/grease/brake fluid in or on it, so far it doesn't seem to hurt anything I've done, to preheat. just gotta be careful handling hot parts in n out of the oven.
clean up is way easier than with a regular paint gun. just blow out with air.
i asked this at the class I went to 2 Saturdays ago, at the local Eastwood store. even though they are Eastwood employees who (understandably) would be expected to push "their" line of products, but they said "powder is powder" Alot of online places sell the same colors as each other, some have more than others.
I discovered a standardized color system in looking for a certain shade of color, I think it originated in Europe. The system is called "RAL" and for example #6009 green at one company is exactly the same #6009 green at another. and I saw actual "touch up paint" in exactly the same color as the powder. I think all greens start with "60xx" I think blues are #50xx. etc I don't believe Eastwood goes by that system but they might be able to at least cross. I did notice that the one green I bought was called "mirror green". Their stock numbers have 5 digits. I did see "mirror green" at several of the places I went to online. If you're trying to compare RAL system colors, you can punch in the search line at google etc (for example) #6005 green vs #6009. or "#6009 vs 6028" and it will pop up a rectangle split down the middle that's 1/2 each shade you're wanting. with a pretty good description of each color. Eastwood apparently didn't have the shade I wanted. at least not in stock. they have a 3x5 "coupon" piece of sheet metal of each color they stock above the in store display. I picked up the "mirror green" in store because of these samples, and though it was a week ago I seen their sample and bought the pouch of "mirror green," my results didn't look like what I remember the sample in the store looked. The store employee that ran the class said they themselves coated those sample plates that hung in their store. Though when I did that round, I noticed afterwards my parts I did that color, the coating was a little "weak" or "thin" in spots. I had enough that weren't "thin" looking, to tell what that color really is supposed to look like, and that just putting a 2nd coat onto wouldn't fix (get me to the color I wanted) Don't get me wrong... it was a real cool looking color but way too far from the paint code I gave the body shop that I want my truck to be. so I re blasted them, and redid them in the powder that I got in the mail.
With the quotes I got to drop off my parts and pick them up "done", I can afford to mis tint or otherwise have to redo ALOT before I come close to what I was quoted! Even with buying the gun and the oven.
speaking of "thin" or "missed" spots I had a couple of parts while I was doing black (my first time ever doing this), they were actually the straps that hold tour tailgate level on 70s/80s trucks. I stuck them back in my home made "booth" while hot and put a 2nd coat of the same stuff on them and baked them again, big improvement.
The next time I'm doing black, I have 2 sets of calipers I want to do. now those I'll have to pre bake before I coat them because of the brake fluid. .
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