anyone here do their own powdercoating at home?

[volaredon]

Im about to try. Im convinced that I have to with the most recent quote i got (blown out of the water)
I have some calipers gas tank straps, cab mount brackets hood and door hinges, battery tray etc I want done for my truck. Granted I have extras blasted and ready for coating, but compared to my last powdercoat job I had done before covid this guy wants 2x as much $$ fror a job that will probably take 1/2 the powder that job did. Back about 2018 I took a 48" 2 stage snowblower attachment in locally to have blasted/ I disassembled it but had them blast, prep etc. the whole job. To match my Ariens garden tractor I had i9t done mostly OSHA orange with a few small parts black (guards, pulleys etc) That blower had been victim of a barn fire so it was crusty.

This time I tried the guy I found by buying 2 of my frame mount cab attach brackets from for my truck (he bought wrong ones for his truck which were right for mine) that he sold me after coating them) I recently found his card, and was all ready to just drop the tote of smalls off to have him take care of. He didnt want to talk to me until I took picx of everything I want done.... I hate people like that as I'm not electronic device proficient, every time I try to take and trasnsmit pix via any online device I struggle mightily. Id rather have just met him, spread everything on my tailgate and talk things over, but no. It took me 3 pix to get evetything I have ready to go, pictured and sent. He sent me numbers
"by picture" of what it cost. While I dont want to leave anything bare so it can rust til I either need the extras or I can sell/trade them, I explained I didnt need 2-1/2 sets of hood hinges, 3-1/2 sets of door hinges etc that I just blasted while I was blasting everything else to help evaluate and cherry pick the best of what I have. I have all the door hinges blown apart because they all need pins and bushings. He came back with a total of $750 for the tote full. WHAT????
I paid $350 to have that big snowblower done and left them to blast and clean everything. so I guess next step is try them. If they are over $500 Im buying a used electric kitchen oven off of MP, (Ive been told never use gas because of fumes and "kablooey" in a gas version) and my own PC gun from Eastwood (I have been getting daily Emails from them, bordering on pain in the azz frequency and they have a real good sale on them now) their powder seems cheap enough,
spend $200 max and have the tools to be able to powdercoat any time I want. and a pound of powder will go a long way.
so as title says..... and also any pitfalls/tips?
Though this would be lighter duty than what he dealt with my son did powdercoating at his last job working for a farm equipment parts company nearby..... so hopefully I can rope him into doing the work.

 

[Car Nut]

@harrisonm,

 

[RustyRatRod]

@harrisonm,

Yeah, him ^^^^ lol

 

[harrisonm]

Im about to try. Im convinced that I have to with the most recent quote i got (blown out of the water)
I have some calipers gas tank straps, cab mount brackets hood and door hinges, battery tray etc I want done for my truck. Granted I have extras blasted and ready for coating, but compared to my last powdercoat job I had done before covid this guy wants 2x as much $$ fror a job that will probably take 1/2 the powder that job did. Back about 2018 I took a 48" 2 stage snowblower attachment in locally to have blasted/ I disassembled it but had them blast, prep etc. the whole job. To match my Ariens garden tractor I had i9t done mostly OSHA orange with a few small parts black (guards, pulleys etc) That blower had been victim of a barn fire so it was crusty.

This time I tried the guy I found by buying 2 of my frame mount cab attach brackets from for my truck (he bought wrong ones for his truck which were right for mine) that he sold me after coating them) I recently found his card, and was all ready to just drop the tote of smalls off to have him take care of. He didnt want to talk to me until I took picx of everything I want done.... I hate people like that as I'm not electronic device proficient, every time I try to take and trasnsmit pix via any online device I struggle mightily. Id rather have just met him, spread everything on my tailgate and talk things over, but no. It took me 3 pix to get evetything I have ready to go, pictured and sent. He sent me numbers
"by picture" of what it cost. While I dont want to leave anything bare so it can rust til I either need the extras or I can sell/trade them, I explained I didnt need 2-1/2 sets of hood hinges, 3-1/2 sets of door hinges etc that I just blasted while I was blasting everything else to help evaluate and cherry pick the best of what I have. I have all the door hinges blown apart because they all need pins and bushings. He came back with a total of $750 for the tote full. WHAT????
I paid $350 to have that big snowblower done and left them to blast and clean everything. so I guess next step is try them. If they are over $500 Im buying a used electric kitchen oven off of MP, (Ive been told never use gas because of fumes and "kablooey" in a gas version) and my own PC gun from Eastwood (I have been getting daily Emails from them, bordering on pain in the azz frequency and they have a real good sale on them now) their powder seems cheap enough,
spend $200 max and have the tools to be able to powdercoat any time I want. and a pound of powder will go a long way.
so as title says..... and also any pitfalls/tips?
Though this would be lighter duty than what he dealt with my son did powdercoating at his last job working for a farm equipment parts company nearby..... so hopefully I can rope him into doing the work.

I have been powder coating for about 25 years. I have gotten pretty good at it. I'd be glad to help you in any way. Please feel free to PM me. I started off with an Eastwood cheapo gun and a used electric oven. I eventually bought an actual powder coating oven with 3' x 3' x 6' inside dimensions from Ted's Fabrications. Very good prices. teds fabrication
That being said, I got by with the electric kitchen oven for about 2 years. I also have a fairly large toaster oven that comes in handy. You will need a blasting cabinet and a decent compressor if you plan to do much coating. You could pay to have things blasted, but it can add up. Once you get a little practice under your belt, you will have people bugging you to coat stuff for them. That is how I started. Don't hesitate to contact me. As you can see, it's not all car parts.

 

[volaredon]

Have the 5hp 2 stage 80 gallon compressor and the blast cabinet already. Looked at the Eastwood oven and it seems too tiny
I've been looking at household electric kitchen ovens. In my work at the auction days I could find them where nobody bid and I could get them for $5 or $10. Live auction days around here are all but done, I guess if I can find for what Eastwood wants for their small one (or less) I guess I'd be interested.
I wasn't expecting to be quoted $750 for a couple of sets of hood hinges, a couple sets of door hinges, a couple of hood latches a set of gas tank straps a pair of cab mount brackets a battery tray, a couple of headlight buckets, and a couple of other small parts... And that's with ME already having blasted all of these parts.

 

[volaredon]

While I have you I thought powdercoating was a single stage deal, this guy who quoted me said something about primer? Is this just an acid etch or epoxy substance out of a regular paint gun or is this a first stage powder application?
That guy said he could do a single stage but it won't be as durable
I've seen lots of Ford and GM suspension and frame that were factory powdercoat that peel off in sheets. That I DON'T want, id rather just paint conventionally than to have that.

A few of my parts like the cab mounts, (1/4" solid steel) and my clutch master bracket (also 1/4" solid steel welded together) are bright new steel
Would blasting be mandatory for some "tooth"?
It wouldn't be a big deal to throw em in the cabinet. I currently have it loaded up with glass bead.
I'm on the fence about doing the outside of drums and rotors.which on this project will all be brand new

 

[volaredon]

As I have been thinking about this for about a month, my wife just told me about the Eastwood store's powdercoating class that popped up on her phone earlier today. This weekend. I called the number on the ad but I'm #5 "too many" for this month, 5 would have to cancel for me to get in. They took my name and number for next month's class. They only want $25 a session

 

[Dicer]

I do have an oven, a gun and some powders. pm me if interested

 

[volaredon]

I did.

 

[volaredon]

What I have to powdercoat so far.
Some black some a close green to what I want the truck painted
I don't have to do all 5 hood hinges or all 3-1/2 sets of door hinges but eventually I will have a couple more sets of calipers etc maybe bumper brackets, engine brackets and such

 

[64mopar]

I am setting up to do some powder coating as well.
I have a blast cabinet,oven,gun and some powder.
Just need to make a little more room in the cramped garage.
Volaredon,there are some things to be aware of, such as have a good grounding system,a safe place to powdercoat,the powder in the air can be combustible, faraday cage issues.

 

[64mopar]

Powdercoat priming is a good idea.
The part must be clean ,no dirt,rust,film of any kind.
Preheat the part to burn off any contaminants and helps the powder to stick.

 

[junior636]

I used to do it at home, the finish was amazing but I could never get it really strong. It always chipped off easily, I cleaned with degreaser, pre heated, tried a bunch of stuff. Amazing what it costs to get anything done anymore yet wages are the same for those who didn’t make minimum wage

 

[harrisonm]

While I have you I thought powdercoating was a single stage deal, this guy who quoted me said something about primer? Is this just an acid etch or epoxy substance out of a regular paint gun or is this a first stage powder application?
That guy said he could do a single stage but it won't be as durable
I've seen lots of Ford and GM suspension and frame that were factory powdercoat that peel off in sheets. That I DON'T want, id rather just paint conventionally than to have that.

A few of my parts like the cab mounts, (1/4" solid steel) and my clutch master bracket (also 1/4" solid steel welded together) are bright new steel
Would blasting be mandatory for some "tooth"?
It wouldn't be a big deal to throw em in the cabinet. I currently have it loaded up with glass bead.
I'm on the fence about doing the outside of drums and rotors.which on this project will all be brand new

First, most of what I do is single stage. I blast the part, clean it with lacquer thinner or Eastwood Pre and a microfiber cloth. After I clean the part thoroughly with solvent and a microfiber cloth, I blow the part off to get rid of any stray fibers that will and then spray it with the color I am using. Then I cure it in the oven. A proper cure time is very important. Let's say you are coating a pair of upper control arms with semi gloss black and the cure time on the package is 375* for 18 minutes. That doesn't 18 minutes after the powder melts (as you are peaking inside the oven). It means 18 minutes after the substrate metal gets to 375*. The powder will melt, or flow out well before the substrate metal gets to 375*. So if you start the timer when the powder flows out, the powder will be under cured by at least, probably, minutes. You need a laser thermometer to accurately gauge the temperature of the metal. I have never had a problem with coating most things single stage. I do use primer occasionally. I use it if something is going to be outside a lot. Like the yard art in the pictures or metal outdoor furniture. The primer I use is a grey epoxy primer with a high zinc content. I prep the parts as usual, spray the primer on and then only do a partial cure. Then I pull the part out of the oven and spray the color on right away while the primer is still melted. Then I do a full cure on the color. I also use the primer as a high build primer for rough/pitted metal. Prep the metal like before, and spray on a heavy coat of primer. This time I'll do a full cure on the primer. Then I block sand the primer with 220 and then 320 dry sandpaper. The primer does a pretty good job of filling in pits. Bad pits and dents can be filled with JB Weld epoxy, using it like body filler. The regular JB Weld is good up to 500*. Do not use the JB Quick set. It is only good up to 325*. When doing the color coat on top of fully cured and sanded primer, I always get the part up to full powder coating temperature to ensure even coverage. Yes, brand new metal should be blasted and cleaned thoroughly. Powder will not stick properly to smooth, new metal. Blasting and cleaning gives it, "tooth" and cleaning will get rid of any imbedded impurities. I have coated the outside of brake drums many times. They will look great for many years. FWIW, I don't use glass beads. They leave the surface too smooth for my liking. I use ground glass in medium grit.
I used to buy a lot of powder and supplies from a company called Powder Buy The Pound. I now buy from a place called Prismatic Powders due to better prices and a wider color selection. Anyway, Powder Buy The Pound has very highly rated powder coating classes.
Powder Coating Training Classes
Powder Coating Training Classes

I used to do it at home, the finish was amazing but I could never get it really strong. It always chipped off easily, I cleaned with degreaser, pre heated, tried a bunch of stuff. Amazing what it costs to get a and then and then nything done anymore yet wages are the same for those who didn’t make minimum wage

If you are having problems with the powder sticking, it is most likely improper prep or improper curing. Read what I wrote above about curing times. Timing starts when the substrate metal reaches the base temperature, NOT when the powder melts and flows. Proper prep includes blasting the metal and cleaning it with lacquer thinner or Eastwood Pre and a microfiber cloth. You said that you used a degreaser. Most degreasers will leave a residue that will hurt powder adhesion. All I use is Lacquer thinner or Eastwood Pre, and I have never had a problem with powder sticking.

 

[junior636]

First, most of what I do is single stage. I blast the part, clean it with lacquer thinner or Eastwood Pre and a microfiber cloth. After I clean the part thoroughly with solvent and a microfiber cloth, I blow the part off to get rid of any stray fibers that will and then spray it with the color I am using. Then I cure it in the oven. A proper cure time is very important. Let's say you are coating a pair of upper control arms with semi gloss black and the cure time on the package is 375* for 18 minutes. That doesn't 18 minutes after the powder melts (as you are peaking inside the oven). It means 18 minutes after the substrate metal gets to 375*. The powder will melt, or flow out well before the substrate metal gets to 375*. So if you start the timer when the powder flows out, the powder will be under cured by at least, probably, minutes. You need a laser thermometer to accurately gauge the temperature of the metal. I have never had a problem with coating most things single stage. I do use primer occasionally. I use it if something is going to be outside a lot. Like the yard art in the pictures or metal outdoor furniture. The primer I use is a grey epoxy primer with a high zinc content. I prep the parts as usual, spray the primer on and then only do a partial cure. Then I pull the part out of the oven and spray the color on right away while the primer is still melted. Then I do a full cure on the color. I also use the primer as a high build primer for rough/pitted metal. Prep the metal like before, and spray on a heavy coat of primer. This time I'll do a full cure on the primer. Then I block sand the primer with 220 and then 320 dry sandpaper. The primer does a pretty good job of filling in pits. Bad pits and dents can be filled with JB Weld epoxy, using it like body filler. The regular JB Weld is good up to 500*. Do not use the JB Quick set. It is only good up to 325*. When doing the color coat on top of fully cured and sanded primer, I always get the part up to full powder coating temperature to ensure even coverage. Yes, brand new metal should be blasted and cleaned thoroughly. Powder will not stick properly to smooth, new metal. Blasting and cleaning gives it, "tooth" and cleaning will get rid of any imbedded impurities. I have coated the outside of brake drums many times. They will look great for many years. FWIW, I don't use glass beads. They leave the surface too smooth for my liking. I use ground glass in medium grit.


If you are having problems with the powder sticking, it is improper prep or improper curing. Read what I wrote above about curing times. Timing starts when the substrate metal reaches the base temperature, NOT when the powder melts and flows. Proper prep includes blasting the metal and cleaning it with lacquer thinner or Eastwood Pre and a microfiber cloth. You said that you used a degreaser. Most degreasers will leave a residue that will hurt powder adhesion. All I use is Lacquer thinner or Eastwood Pre, and I have never had a problem with powder sticking.

I’m not disagreeing with you but every professional powder coat place I’ve worked with, run parts through a wash before powder. I’ve never had anything require sand blasting. When speaking about new metal parts. I don’t even have the equipment anymore. I’m not sure what’s in the wash at the professional places.

 

[harrisonm]

I’m not disagreeing with you but every professional powder coat place I’ve worked with, run parts through a wash before powder. I’ve never had anything require sand blasting. When speaking about new metal parts. I don’t even have the equipment anymore. I’m not sure what’s in the wash at the professional places.

Most likely it is an acid wash that not only cleans the part, but etches it. I don't care to get involved with that process. It takes me a bit longer, but it is far less expensive for me to blast a part and then wash it down. I am not claiming to be a top notch professional who utilizes cutting edge technology. I do it old school. Blasting and thorough cleaning works very well for me.

 

[harrisonm]

faraday cage issues.

The gun I have now has a special "Vector Wave" function that pulses the energy at the tip of the gun. This helps with the Faraday Cage Effect.

 

[volaredon]

I was looking at the dual voltage one Eastwood has. They've had a pretty good sale on it lately
Do the 3 pic I showed above look like $750 worth of powder coating service? That's about triple what I was expecting. Especially after I told the guy that I can weed out some multiples. And since that 48" snow blower housing I had done a handful of years ago is much more area to coat and that company did the whole job including blast and prep of which I have done on this group which should make the job cost less...

 

[volaredon]

I figure I can buy the Eastwood setup, ( especially with it being on sale) and the powder and not spend nowhere near that and still have the tools etc for next time I can use again and again

 

[volaredon]

That powder by the pound classes sound great except they're a little far from me.
I'm taking the next available Saturday class at the Eastwood store and hour from here. I dunno if they will cover as much content or how long the classes at the "by the pound" place lasts (is it a day long, a week long or more).

 

[harrisonm]

I kind of taught myself. I bet you'll be really good at it. The Eastwood dual voltage gun would work fine. I used their cheapest gun for about two years with good results. I would highly recommend getting the extra light that attaches to the gun. There is no such thing as too much light.

 

[Icetech]

I used to do my own when i had my FFR cobra.. i don't recall whos kit i used but i used a toaster oven to cure parts (i did small stuff) all of it came out great and is worth doing if you want powder coating done.

 

[volaredon]

I saw where they had that light advertised and they showed it by itself, not with the gun. I was thinking (duh) that it was one of those head band lights. I did order the dual voltage gun last night and a bunch of powder in dark green, semi gloss black and appliance white