Anyone painted autumn BRONZE metallic ?

[pete9857]

Got a 73 Cuda, can't get the color right.

 

[1968FormulaS340]

Could you explain, specifically, what the problem is?

Air pressure and lack of correct gun control can affect color but if your color is way off it's more than likely that it was incorrectly mixed.

Another thing that can affect color is the color of the primer/sealer.

 

[pete9857]

I've had 2 paint guys mix, spray, adjust, spray. It doesn't help I'm very picky. I've got a lot of time and money in this Cuda, and the color has to be right. I'm trying to match a spot on the windshield opening. I'm no paint guy, but I can look at 2 panels and know they don't match. A paint guy in Cal. Says its the metallic isn't correct. Thanks for the answers so far.

 

[YY1]

Do you have a section of original paint that's about 6 inches square and flat?

If so, I'd ask the paint shop to use their paint matcher camera.

You may need to go to several shops because the operator and technique can affect the match.

I've had WAY better luck getting a match this way, than using the mix formulas.

This way also accounts for fading and weathering, but of course, some folks don't want that, and I think we can all understand why.

 

[1968FormulaS340]

What YY1 said. Sounds like you are trying to do a small blend? What exactly are you trying to do?

What kind of paint are you using and covering?

Are you trying to do a small blend on the original paint?

If you are, mixing to the paint code will never work. This is a situation where you most likely need a very skilled painter (one with a superior understanding of color theory and a mixing bank).

 

[pete9857]

Total restoration. I'm not a paint guy, I do mechanical, fit and finish. It's my personal car. Its in primer now, but not block sanded yet. All I have is a small area under windshield. I'm looking for ideas of someone who 's sprayed this color and got it right. My paint guy seems to think its the new type metallic screwing it up.
Thanks for answers

 

[1968FormulaS340]

Well, if the grind of the metallic isn't right, it will never be right. Autumn gold metallic isn't some "super color" that requires a special painter.

If a competent painter can't get it to look the way you want, it's not the painter, it's the product.

And what is right? Right would be a single stage, crappy enamel if you want the truth of the matter.

I really would like to help more but you really need to be very specific about what the issue is. What are you spraying, base clear I assume?

How do you know it's wrong? Do you have 40 year old, original paint to compare it with?

 

[pete9857]

Like I said, a small spot under windshield. I'm going to take the body to a paint shop and keep mixing until it suits me. Apparently it's a little more complicated than some think. My body paint guy has been doing this for 30 plus years, but the car hasn't been to the place where they were mixing the colors. I'm more picky than most I figure.
Thanks everyone

 

[1968FormulaS340]

So you are trying to match a small spot of original paint that remains under the windshield?

 

[pyrojim]

I was frustrated with the QQ1 red on my 66. Had a pint mixed and it was way off. Check the build date, may be a carry over color?

 

[pete9857]

So you are trying to match a small spot of original paint that remains under the windshield?

Correct, I screwed up , the color is autumn bronze metallic

 

[pete9857]

Yes there's different names for it depending on Dodge or Plymouth. I think it was available in 71 & 73

 

[Louie70Dart]

I think PPG made? If so, you need to find a PPG distributor or shop that uses PPG paints. Then go to them and ask if they can match that color with the code for that color. That is if that is the original color. If it isn't, then without a color computer match, you're just throwing something against the wall hoping something sticks. But even with a color computer match, it may still be a little off. If you have a small part with that color on it, that would help with any color match. Matter of fact, that's not a bad idea for anyone out there. Take a piece of metal, that you don't need, and prepare it as you did your car. Then keep that safely stored so you can use it later in case of needing a match. The piece you save, only clear coat one half of it. That is so that in case the clear coat yellows on you, as they are known to do over time.

 

[360PLUS]

I went thru 3 qts of paint (Fk6)at least could not get it to match, its 2 shades lighter it almost looks like 1970 k5. I got no help at all from all 3 paint sores and 2 body shops. I take its the same for you. :wack:

 

[pete9857]

Yes, 6 paint panels and not quite right. Too red, too copper-ish, then to light or dark. I think I'm going to get a rotisserie and take the shell to the paint place with my body guy and spend the day shooting panels. I've heard from guys who painted this color back in the 70's and it was a pain then.
Thanks

 

[cannucky]

my car is turbine bronze with a little pearl added by the guy who painted it for me , the local paint supply guys shot it with the camera and the touchup is perfect they even figured out it needed the gold pearl and how much , the kicker is I also got some loaded in a rattle can to do a pair of wheels and I can tell you it really depends on what primer your shooting over ,I shot the wheels over the black they came primed with and should have used a lt grey to re-prime them , before the resto I got a couple of Revell models and painted them using 4 different primers -lt grey , dk grey black and red , all four looked completely different when shot with the actual mix for the car . I would suggest if there is an exact shade your are trying to get you grab a piece of sheet metal and do the same thing I did with the models.

 

[cawley]

My uncle has a 71 gtx that is that color. I use PPG paint, & I have been finding out when it comes to the old colors you cant get them in DBC ( the better paint) So I use PPGs shop line ( the cheep paint) because that is the only thing they can mix it in. now the cheep paint is thin (translusent) I do not thin it like they ask for. If you thin it like they want you to it can change the color. Also depending on the color of sealer or primer you use can change the shade of the color. Not noing at the time I ended up putting 10 coats of base on & the color still isn't right. If you ask the place where you get your paint they will tell you what color of sealer/primer to put under your color. You would be surprised how the shade of some colors change depending on if you use black or gray sealer/ primer.

 

[Louie70Dart]

With paint that don't hide for crap, the application can make a very big difference. Part of the application being the sub base, or primer color. When I was still working at the paint company, we were trying to do a special effect with a newer effect pigment. Part of it was using the effect in a clear tinted with a color. Part of it came out to a real cool plum crazy color, another one was very close to the 1971 Dart butterscotch color. Just saying that those above are correct.

 

[YY1]

For the record, I've been using Nason's single stage.

It is very similar to the factory "poly" paint.

It does have some work characteristics to get used to, but comes out nice once you get it.