Anyone switch over to an aftermarket electrical bulkhead?

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supersoap33

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I'm doing a budget build and the previous owner liquid nailed the bulkhead and connectors in, so I ripped it all out. I found this American Autowire weatherproof bulkhead from JEGS and was wondering if anyone else had made the conversion, and if you're happy with it. It's less costly that me finding some reproductions at this point. That's why I'm considering it.
 
The bulkhead connector was only there for production line assembly. If you are rewiring the car you don’t really need it.
 
I agree. How many times, really does anyone need to remove the engine harness from the bay? If you are repainting, etc, you can just stuff it back through the hole
 
You will definitely eliminate a common source of corroded terminals and that dreaded power wire that gives people grief .
 
I have no idea why I don't understand any of y'all the first time I read through your comments lol. I just ordered a 22 pin bulkhead. But what y'all are saying is what I was thinking, which is to just use butt connectors and connect the wires through the firewall and just delete the bulkhead altogether, and that the bulkhead is ultimately there to make assembly easier in the factory.
 
I wouldn't use butt crimps as those are ugly, bulky, and preferred by gomers. There are many approaches. I think most manufacturers dropped bulkhead connectors by the 1980's as the number of wires thru the firewall grew. I know that mid-1980's GM pickups I've picked for HEI just run the wires straight thru a grommet in the firewall. My 1996 Plymouth hard-wires straight thru to the underhood relay/fuse box. My 2002 Chrysler does similar, but has multiple connectors on the bottom of the relay/fuse box, and those give Northerners endless problems with corroded pins. My 1984 M-B is a strange in-between. They put the fuse box right in the bulkhead, though all wires connect to it on the cabin side, then some pass thru a large grommeted hole to the engine bay. I have seen some people install a many-pin Amphenol connector in the bulkhead. Those are common in aerospace and can be pricey unless one follows you home from work or better find cheap on ebay. I can't think of any other inexpensive connectors with many pins which are high-quality. Indeed, I have had to pay $$$ for industrial connectors for servo motors and such. For early-A's where only 2 connectors are needed since the wiper motor was still in the cabin, a 1965 bulkhead connector is best since it sends the high ALT and BAT wires thru on dedicated buss-bars (no melting). I retrofit one in my 1964 Valiant, only having the cut the square hole 1/8" taller to fit. 1963 also had that, but w/ fewer terminals. The "fleet wiring" in later years ran those thick wires thru grommeted holes, separate from the bulkhead connector.
 
Does that mean you just used butt connectors on the existing wires? Certainly sounds easier than this ****.
I had a guy rewire my entire car he asked if I wanted to retain the bulkhead and deal with future resistance issues in he future...I said please lose it thank you.
 
There are a bunch of GM style sealed multi pin connectors in different pin counts on Amazon that are pretty cheap if you want some

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If you want to retain the ability to disconnect, yet still have a "solid" connection and don't care about factory crap, use something like this...

There are a bajillion configurations with number of pins and current carrying capacity.


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Thanks for all of your help, everyone. I ordered an aftermarket delphi Packard and tried to fit it in and gave up. Just used butt connectors to connect the wires and it's working fine. Wasted a lot of time trying to get a bulkhead in and they're completely ******* useless.
 
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