72BBSwinger
Well-Known Member
That is freakin awesome! I need to do a pull on my fronts, would love 295's on the front. 18x10's with 45mm offset im thinking.
Appropriate Wheel Offset for 18" Wheels?
- Thread starter MuuMuu101
- Start date
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tomswheels
Well-Known Member
That's the exact wheel I'm running in front...
72BBSwinger
Well-Known Member
Tom, you still running 11.75 Cordoba rotors? How fame rail clearance at full lock? Any spacer in front with that wheel? Also are those rears 305/30/19 on 19x11's? Was kicking around do those on all 4 but im thinking the diameter might be deal breaking on the front.
tomswheels
Well-Known Member
Still running 10.75 stock 73+ rotors! Need to upgrade those ASAP. Keep hoping someone will make a 13" 6-piston kit for my 73+ spindles. I do run 1/2 - 3/4 inch of spacer, no problems with frame rail clearance, doesn't rub, but haven't measured it either. My rears are 19x10.5 with a +25 offset....
72BBSwinger
Well-Known Member
I think you would love Dr. Diffs 4 piston 13" kit, otherwise talk to Ron Sutton about some of what he carries.
I totally agree. I have Dr. Diff's 13" cobra style kit (2 piston calipers) on my Duster. It was a HUGE upgrade from my previous set up, which was already the later 11.75" mopar rotors. And even those were a noticeable upgrade from the stock 73+ disks. I still run the 11.75's on my Challenger, they're good brakes and it stops well, but the 13" rotors are far better.
I haven't run the 13" Brembo (4 piston) kit from Cass, but if it's better than the Cobra kit it'll be quite a brake set up.
When I get my Dart done and autocross prepped, I'll let you drive it to see if Dr Diff's kit is enough braking for you.
bringing this thread back. it's not too old. 
to anyone who's running either of the DrDiff 13" fronts. with what K-member and sway bar? still loving them? any problems?
thanks
brembo-style
cobra-style
to anyone who's running either of the DrDiff 13" fronts. with what K-member and sway bar? still loving them? any problems?thanks
brembo-style
cobra-style
bringing this thread back. it's not too old.
thanks
brembo-style
cobra-style
First off, I'm running the Hotchkis TVS. The Hotchkis UCA's have a big curve in them (some other aftermarket tubular UCA's have them too) that cause interference way before full-lock, so the calipers have to be front mounted. Looking at it, there's no way anyone will be able to use any sway bar besides Hotchkis's as it's the only one that mounts inboard on the LCA. Also, an 18" wheel is practically required. I tried fitting a 17" Bullet Mustang wheel and it rubbed on the inner wheel. I'm not sure how the '73-76 cars are, but that's for the '66-72 cars. I hope that's of some help...
thanks MuuMuu, I saw your thread on the wheel buy and thought they looked good on your car. I was wondering if 18's were going to be a requirement for the big brakes, hoping to run 17x9's. did the 17's just rub? may be possible to clearance the caliper a bit if it's close. are you still on a pre 73' K-member?
thanks chuck
IIRC, the edge, close to the bleeders, were the place where they rubbed and it was quite a bit. As far as I know, I still have the pre-73 K-member. I didn't swap it and it looks like the engine has sat there all its life based off of all the gunk that was on it. An aftermarket wheel may have better chances of clearing.
I know 72bluNblu is running the Cobra-style one, rear mounted, but he's got Firmfeel UCA's. He also has a much larger variety of sway bar choices. I believe he's running Hellwig. He's also probably on the '73+ K-member.
ya, the 69' I'm doing has an early K, should be the original /6, but there was no motor so I still need to confirm that. choices being a full 73' up K and steering linkage. or keep the 69' K with /6 to SB conversion mounts and add 73' spindles. then I would use the hotchkis front bar so it wouldn't be so wide. probably going with firmfeel upper arms. cars going to see alot of street driving. guess i'll call FF and see if they know how the drdiff 13's fit rear mounted...
I love doing this, but it's a pain deciding which way to run when nothing's locked down yet
I love doing this, but it's a pain deciding which way to run when nothing's locked down yet
ya, the 69' I'm doing has an early K, should be the original /6, but there was no motor so I still need to confirm that. choices being a full 73' up K and steering linkage. or keep the 69' K with /6 to SB conversion mounts and add 73' spindles. then I would use the hotchkis front bar so it wouldn't be so wide. probably going with firmfeel upper arms. cars going to see alot of street driving. guess i'll call FF and see if they know how the drdiff 13's fit rear mounted...
I love doing this, but it's a pain deciding which way to run when nothing's locked down yet
I'm not too familiar with the +73 stuff. Apparently they have better engine mounts or something and feed the sway bar thru the k-member (I don't recall which was the better Hotchkis sway bar). I believe Firmfeel still uses bushings in their UCA's (which has its advantages and disadvantages). It will probably be better for you since you're doing a lot of street driving. Mine have rod ends, but I put rubber boots on them so hopefully they'll last a couple thousand more miles.
A potentially cheaper, and still cool swap could be using the '73+ drum spindles and attaching Gen I or II Viper calipers to it. They use 11.75" rotors and real Brembos (unlike mine, which are practically copies). You'd just have to look on CL or Ebay to find a pair. Sometimes Rockauto will stock them. That will allow you to run the 17" wheels with easy, still look cool, and offer sufficient braking (especially since yours is still a street car). The only downside is that those calipers are technically like 20 year old technology, but they should do the job. My car may see autocrossing and road racing in the future so I went with larger brakes.
http://www.doctordiff.com/viper-caliper-mounting-brackets-for-mopar-drum-knuckles.html
Bellow is a slant-six K-member I pulled off of a '71 Demon. It should be the same as what you have.
MuuMuu101;1970730785...potentially cheaper said::burnout: oh, this is going to get auto-x'd and track day'ed to death so I'm planning on 13's.
it's like an old man without his Viagra, what goods a race car if you don't have it with you at all times
As MuuMuu mentioned I'm running Dr Diffs 13" Cobra style brake kit. I have the 73+ K, linkage, and spindles. With all of that I also have a Hellwig hollow front bar #55905, stock 73+ sway bar mounts on a set of stock, boxed LCA's, and magnumforce non-adjustable, bushed tubular UCA's. Calipers are rear mounted to avoid any interference with the sway bar. I originally tried to run stock UCA's, but they hit the rims at full lock and suspension droop, so I went tubular for additional clearance.
Personally, I would run the 73+ K and steering linkage. There's a couple of advantages compared to the '69 K. The spool mount engine brackets are a better way to mount the engine. It's not a huge deal and I wouldn't swap the K's just for that, but they are an improvement. The bigger deal is the sway bar. The 73+ bars are better for clearance pretty much everywhere. The outer sway bar mounts give better clearance, and the bar runs through the K frame, so no sway bar hanging off the front of the K. It also seems like the aftermarket sway bars for the 73+ K's allow for more tire clearance at full lock. The 73+ Hellwig sway bar is also $90 cheaper than the 67-72 version. The Hotchkis bars are reversed for pricing, the 73+ bar is an extra $30.
As far as 17x9's, I think you're going to have an uphill battle. The biggest thing is going to be getting them to clear the outer tie rod. Most 17" rim designs don't clear the outer tie rod, and that limits you to ~5.6" of backspace. Which means 255's would be as wide as you could go. To run 275's with the stock fender openings you need about 6" of backspace on a 9" rim. I only know of one guy that got away with running a 17x9" with a 6" backspace, and he later alluded to having clearance issues. He was running Cobra R mustang rims, Bullit rims are usually limited to about 5.6" of backspace.
The 13" rotors might be an issue too, at least with some rim designs. I know that with my RPF1's I don't have a ton of clearance even with 18" rims, because the RPF1 has a stepped shoulder design. I'm not sure the RPF's would clear the calipers on the 13" kit if they were a 17" rim. But, I do have a 17" spare that clears the 13" rotors and cobra style calipers. So, I would say most 17" rims would clear the 13" rotors and cobra calipers, but I would bet there are 17" rims out there that won't.
My front set up is 18x9" Enkei RPF1's with a 35mm offset and 275/35/18 tires. I have a 3mm spacer in there right now, and probably need a 5mm spacer, so I would say with the 13" Dr Diff kit an 18x9 with a 30mm offset would be ideal, at least for my car. You can run a little less, I haven't rolled my fenders yet, although I did push them out a bit with the fender to bumper bracket braces.
Personally, I would run the 73+ K and steering linkage. There's a couple of advantages compared to the '69 K. The spool mount engine brackets are a better way to mount the engine. It's not a huge deal and I wouldn't swap the K's just for that, but they are an improvement. The bigger deal is the sway bar. The 73+ bars are better for clearance pretty much everywhere. The outer sway bar mounts give better clearance, and the bar runs through the K frame, so no sway bar hanging off the front of the K. It also seems like the aftermarket sway bars for the 73+ K's allow for more tire clearance at full lock. The 73+ Hellwig sway bar is also $90 cheaper than the 67-72 version. The Hotchkis bars are reversed for pricing, the 73+ bar is an extra $30.
As far as 17x9's, I think you're going to have an uphill battle. The biggest thing is going to be getting them to clear the outer tie rod. Most 17" rim designs don't clear the outer tie rod, and that limits you to ~5.6" of backspace. Which means 255's would be as wide as you could go. To run 275's with the stock fender openings you need about 6" of backspace on a 9" rim. I only know of one guy that got away with running a 17x9" with a 6" backspace, and he later alluded to having clearance issues. He was running Cobra R mustang rims, Bullit rims are usually limited to about 5.6" of backspace.
The 13" rotors might be an issue too, at least with some rim designs. I know that with my RPF1's I don't have a ton of clearance even with 18" rims, because the RPF1 has a stepped shoulder design. I'm not sure the RPF's would clear the calipers on the 13" kit if they were a 17" rim. But, I do have a 17" spare that clears the 13" rotors and cobra style calipers. So, I would say most 17" rims would clear the 13" rotors and cobra calipers, but I would bet there are 17" rims out there that won't.
My front set up is 18x9" Enkei RPF1's with a 35mm offset and 275/35/18 tires. I have a 3mm spacer in there right now, and probably need a 5mm spacer, so I would say with the 13" Dr Diff kit an 18x9 with a 30mm offset would be ideal, at least for my car. You can run a little less, I haven't rolled my fenders yet, although I did push them out a bit with the fender to bumper bracket braces.
:burnout: oh, this is going to get auto-x'd and track day'ed to death so I'm planning on 13's.
it's like an old man without his Viagra, what goods a race car if you don't have it with you at all times
Lol... That's perfectly fine then. Yeah, the 11.75" rotors may get a little too hot. Brake ducting may be required. If you're in Socal, and both of our cars are running, we should definitely go cruising or racing sometime. I'm at the 10/57 freeway intersection.
thanks for the info 72bluNblu, I'm already leaning toward the 73+ K, just seeing if the earlier one is a viable option. will see what I can find at spring fling without a crazy price. all I need is the K, center link and knuckles. also resigned to 18's if that's all that will fit the brakes...
hey MuuMuu I am worried about cooking off the smaller brakesops:...
I'm near woodley park, where they have spring fling at. not too far if it's not rush hours
hey MuuMuu I am worried about cooking off the smaller brakes
ops:...I'm near woodley park, where they have spring fling at. not too far if it's not rush hours
thanks for the info 72bluNblu, I'm already leaning toward the 73+ K, just seeing if the earlier one is a viable option. will see what I can find at spring fling without a crazy price. all I need is the K, center link and knuckles. also resigned to 18's if that's all that will fit the brakes...
hey MuuMuu I am worried about cooking off the smaller brakes
I'm near woodley park, where they have spring fling at. not too far if it's not rush hours
I'll probably see you at the next Spring Fling. I'd think my Dart should be ready by then. Then you can really see the fitment and look of 18's.
hey MuuMuu I am worried about cooking off the smaller brakes
I wouldn't worry too much about the 11.75's. I seriously doubt you'd have any issues with them on an autoX course. Too slow, not enough consecutive laps (usually). I've been running the 11.75's on my Challenger for years now without any problems.
Road course or trackdays would be a little different. It would depend on the layout of the track and the number of laps you got to run. On a brake heavy course I'm sure you could get them to fade if you got to run for awhile.
Not saying the 13's aren't great, they are and I love 'em, but I don't think they're a mandatory upgrade to get started if you've already got 11.75's.
LOL right now I have nothing...car still has the 9" drums until I can finish striping it. ya, the 13's are more for the planned track days than auto-x. I did spend a few years
auto-xing an 05' sti in STU, just took a few years off while the daughter is in collage. last year now so it's time to start building :glasses7:
onelapduster
Member
Digging up this old thread. Really appreciate the guys stepping outside the norm and fitting up bigger wheels for grip performance.
I just picked up a set of aftermarket wheels front 18x10, +40 offset, and rear 18x11 +52 offset. Came off a newer Boss 302 mustang. I'll be tossing these on my resto mod 69 GTS 383 car.
I just picked up a set of aftermarket wheels front 18x10, +40 offset, and rear 18x11 +52 offset. Came off a newer Boss 302 mustang. I'll be tossing these on my resto mod 69 GTS 383 car.
DionR
Well-Known Member
You might need a 1/4” spacer, +40 is a lot. But I bet it can be made to work. Post up some pictures, they sound cool.
What are you running for brakes in the front? And how about rear axle and brakes in the back? Spring relocation and mini-tub in the back?
onelapduster
Member
Dr. Diff 13 inch cobra front, 8-3/4 big brake kit rear. Stock width A body 8-3/4 currently or B body 70-74 if I can get one in Alaska. Spring relocation in the rear, and will mod the outer wheel well a bit for some clearance if needed.
Tubular uppers, USCT full stiffening kit.
Tubular uppers, USCT full stiffening kit.
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