Another 17" Mustang Wheel Thread

[1973_Swinger]

I picked up a set of mustang wheels in decent shape for a decent price to toss onto my 1973 dart swinger which is currently still on the rotisserie..

Rear 17x10.5 (ET +20??) I'm not really concerned about the rear because of the modifications I have already done noted below and I know it will fit already
Front 17x9 (ET +30)

Rear Tire 315-35r17
Front Tire 275-40r17

I have a shortened ford 8.8" rear end, mini-tub and spring relocate. see a picture of the 315s sitting in the wheel tub right where my shortened axle would put them:

I mocked up the front rim on my k-member assembly that is sitting on the shop floor and there is a slight interference (I don't have a picture) with the tie rod end. And I am not sure if there will be fender interference as the car is in body work stage..

Is there an aftermarket (slightly shorter) steering arm that comes off the spindle to help clear the 17" rim lip? or am I stuck doing a wheel spacer to clear this area? I have the front disk brake setup also and the big bolt pattern.

 

[missing linc]

@72bluNblu

 

[67Dart273]

Maybe a spacer and longer studs? The stang wheels are not all the same. I believe there are at least three different once, by that I mean offset, etc, all being so called "Bullitt" style

 

[fshd4it]

I put 17x8, 30mm offset Bullitt wheels on my '64 Barracuda. Big bolt disc brake swap (factory 10.97 discs), and when I bought new lower ball joints from Rock Auto they sent me 2 different styles. I already had 1/8" spacers and slightly longer studs, but one of the steering arms still hit. It's long enough ago I don't remember who made which. I ordered a set of Proforged ones, which cleared the rim, but they're still pretty close.

 

[72bluNblu]

17’s are limited to about 5.7” of backspace in the front because of interference with the outer tie rod end. That’s with most rims, obviously some rims have better clearance than others (same with lower ball joint/tie rod ends). There’s no short steering arm because it’s part of the lower ball joint and even if there was you wouldn’t want that because it would screw with your steering geometry.

The problem is to clear a 275 tire up front you need about 6” of backspace. Your 17x9” +30 is about exactly where you need to be to clear the 275’s. If you add a spacer so you clear the outer tie rod end, you will most likely run into fender interference.

The Proforged lower ball joints have slightly better clearance than others, but it won’t be enough.

Realistically with 17’s you should stick with a 17x8 and a 255. 275’s work much better with 18” rims because they clear the outer tie rod ends at the higher backspacing.

 

[72bluNblu]

Although that being said, you have the wheels already so you can look at how much spacer you need to clear the tie rod and then see where that puts your for fender clearance. Spacers are cheap, all of these cars are a little different and if you’re willing to roll the fender lips you might be able to swing it depending on your ride height and exactly how much spacer you end up needing to clear the rim.

 

[1973_Swinger]

72blu, I was reading multiple posts on this topic and seen you reply on almost all of them with valuable intel, I was hoping to hear from you on this subject in my particular case.

My entire k member/steering components needs rebuilt anyway so ill maybe try them profrged lower ball joints out.

Ideally i was wanting to get away from any spacers at all on the front, I don't mind rolling fender lip either.

on a side note - front tires are shot so I would be open to narrower tires. from the interwebs, a 9" rim accommodates 245 - 275 tire widths.. So maybe if I bump down a size it will help fender clearance if I end up needing to add a 1/4" spacer.

 

[72bluNblu]

72blu, I was reading multiple posts on this topic and seen you reply on almost all of them with valuable intel, I was hoping to hear from you on this subject in my particular case.

My entire k member/steering components needs rebuilt anyway so ill maybe try them profrged lower ball joints out.

Ideally i was wanting to get away from any spacers at all on the front, I don't mind rolling fender lip either.

on a side note - front tires are shot so I would be open to narrower tires. from the interwebs, a 9" rim accommodates 245 - 275 tire widths.. So maybe if I bump down a size it will help fender clearance if I end up needing to add a 1/4" spacer.

I run the proforged lower ball joints on my car. I had to re-do the toe setting when I installed them, so they definitely buy a little bit of space. But it's probably only an 1/8". Granted, if you need that space it's more than nothing and it would reduce the amount of spacer you'd need too.

I totally agree about the spacers, it's better to get things to work without them but if you keep the spacer under a 1/4" and use good ones that actually fit tightly to the studs and the hub it shouldn't be an issue.

Needing new tires is a great thing, you can at least do your test fitting first and figure out what you'd need to do in order to clear the 275's and buy yourself some space by running 255's if you need to when you actually buy tires.

If you don't mind rolling the fender lips you can make the 275's work, a lot of it will depend on your ride height. When I first went to 18x9's at +30 I basically did nothing to the fenders, as I lowered the car further and further I had to roll the fender lips. But my car is lowered 2" from stock in the front, and it only works because I also have QA1 tubular LCA's and 3/16" tall bump stops. So most folks wouldn't need to do as much to the fenders as I have because their ride height won't be as low, and a little bit makes a big difference for the clearance.