As in outdoor temp? The temperature and fuel gauges seem to just pick a level on the hot days (95+), usually seeming too low. Cold mornings all seems fine. 70 Duster /6 with standard dash, non A/C.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Are dashboard IVR’s temperature sensitive
- Thread starter dddDuster
- Start date
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Well heat and moisture are not kind to electronics of any kind....so yeah. It is considered a hostile environment.
Demonic
Well-Known Member
Yes, they are inherently thermally compensated, as the factory IVR is a bi-metallic strip.
RTE Gauge Faq - rte
RTE Gauge Faq - rte
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
They may be "compensated" but that does not mean they are accurate to extremes. They were in their day "OK" but in reality crude electromechanical devices I still remember one failiing in my 60 Falcooooon the winter before I went into the navy---the winter of 67-68
If your IVR is OEM as stated before it is mechanical, current heats the IVR and it breaks the circuit momentarily.
If your IVR is new it might be electronic.
As to temperature sensitive my guess is that ambient temp (-40 to 140) would have minimum effect on the mechanical or electronic IVR
If your IVR is new it might be electronic.
As to temperature sensitive my guess is that ambient temp (-40 to 140) would have minimum effect on the mechanical or electronic IVR
These components generate heat. plugged in OEM limiter usually had a piece of paper like material between its contact posts and the circuit board serving as a heat shield of sorts to block the generated heat from the printed circuit board. Solid state such as 7805 needs a heat sink and heat sink compound. I've watched the output voltage of those change. Some as low as 4.89 volts at cold start would slowly climb as high as 5.42 volts as it heats up (just powered up, no load).
Case to consider... I bought my 67 notch just outside of Seattle and drove it to Anderson SC, 2854 miles in 3&1/2 days. This was 2nd week in October so very little ambient temp change from morning to night, from one side of this country to the other. I noticed that after several hours of driving and totally random also, the gauge needle positions would just change, climb up a tad from where they had been. After a brief stop for fuel and coffee or a burger, the needles would go back to the earlier lower readings, except for fuel of course. And that gauge is the major contributor to work load. My point... the mechanical limiters have a few different failure indicators from slight needle changes to wild needle swings at switch on. Ambient temp change isn't the cause. Combination of generated internal heat and circuit load changes are the cause.
Case to consider... I bought my 67 notch just outside of Seattle and drove it to Anderson SC, 2854 miles in 3&1/2 days. This was 2nd week in October so very little ambient temp change from morning to night, from one side of this country to the other. I noticed that after several hours of driving and totally random also, the gauge needle positions would just change, climb up a tad from where they had been. After a brief stop for fuel and coffee or a burger, the needles would go back to the earlier lower readings, except for fuel of course. And that gauge is the major contributor to work load. My point... the mechanical limiters have a few different failure indicators from slight needle changes to wild needle swings at switch on. Ambient temp change isn't the cause. Combination of generated internal heat and circuit load changes are the cause.
Demonic
Well-Known Member
I should have mentioned - I have a RTE in my Charger. Last year, the oil, temp and fuel all swept to the far right for a brief instant. Figured it was the IVR. The RTE version has short/ high current protection, so it was an easy choice. Works great-no worries.
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