ARP bolt torque / alu intake manifold

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Moparbaker

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I'm gonna put on the aluminum intake manifold with stainless ARP bolts but I aint got a clue what the torque is...
I googled but I can't find any answer that makes sense.
Does anyone here know?
 
Yep, that'd be the torque for standard stuff but I'm wondering about stailess steel ARP bolts on alu intake, & I've read that it's not the same tourque at all.
 
Okidoki, I hope nobody comes up with something else then... or do I really hope that...? we'll se...
 
Hey,you do what you want but I called ARP and asked them..
 
You asked a question. You got several of the same answers. And now you don't believe them. Why did you even ask the question then?
 
Using an ARP bolt there makes no difference in the torque, unless you are lubing the threads, or if the thread finish is significantly different from the stock type bolts. If you lube them with ARP thread lube, then going to 35 ft lbs will result in a higher tension on ANY bolt, and will thus put more clamping force on ANY manifold. That might cause warpage or even breakage.

OP: What is your source of the info on your AL intake's bolt torque? FWIW, we used 25 ft lbs on our Edelbrock RPM Performer AL intake, per their instructions, but have gone higher with no damage (so far!).
 
If your refering to me I called ARP and this is what they said it was..
 
From the center and across, tighten them all snug, then hit them one more time about as tight as you would your header bolt. Drive it and re check. Use a box end wrench.

Outside of the rod bolts and main bolts, don't put too much thought into it.
 
Check with Edelbrock- just did mine and I think it was 25ft you need instructions for the manifold
 
Don't forget you want sealant on those bolts or they will wick up oil, that will affect you torque value
 
"Funny" this... I just wanted different answers & in the end I got it! But before that I got treated as if I'm an totally stupid, & maby I am...?
Anyway, after reading the latest inputs I also got a "pdf" from a friend & it's 25 ft (just as TF360 wrote) for alu intakes, not 35, at least for Weiand & that's what I have.
& it seems the stainless bolts don't matter other than what diymirage wrote.

So for now:
Over'n Out!
:)
 
it seems the stainless bolts don't matter other than what diymirage wrote.


:)

what i wrote is not specific to stainless bolts.
the way these holes are tapped they go into oil passages and unless you put some sort of sealant on there, they will wick up oil, no matter what bolts you use
 
Just to clarify, the head's tapped bolt holes for the intake bolts aren't tapped into oil 'passages', at least anything pressurized with oil. (There is one head bolt that has the rocker oil supply passing up through the head bolt hole.)
 
Just to clarify, the head's tapped bolt holes for the intake bolts aren't tapped into oil 'passages', at least anything pressurized with oil. (There is one head bolt that has the rocker oil supply passing up through the head bolt hole.)
The shop doing my valves didnt use enough on 3 of them. Couldnt figure out where the oil was coming from. The hot oil under the valve covers WILL migrate up the threads if not properly sealed. Sneaky stuff, that Mobil 1.
 
25 ft/lbs is not near enough to get the bolts into their 35 ft/lb (grade 8 course) 'plastic' range anyway, thats just probably to compress the gasket and not vibrate out. If we were talking rod bolts, the metellurgy would then get into play, and the ARP website does list different values than stock. Remember your clamping an AL intake into a wedge. The tighter you clamp, the more inward stress is being applied to the edges of the intake (with bolt hole allowance) so a stronger iron intake could take more clamping force. I would think 25 (grade 5) and 35 (grade 8) would be AL and iron torque ratings, but go with either manufacturers ratings before using this general 3/8 bolt torque guideline.
Fratzog found the oil seepage issue without using RTV on a few through hole intake bolts (ie. centers)
 
Fratzog found the oil seepage issue without using RTV on a few through hole intake bolts (ie. centers)
And he was also an unhappy camper. Make sure you or your mechanic thoroughly clean, degrease and evenly seal the threads to avoid doing it all over!
 
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