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The Skunk

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Oct 17, 2012
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Greensburg, IN
Alright brand new to the site. Im 16 and bought my first "old" car a 1972 dart swinger 225 slant six auto, about a month ago. The car ran fine and shift rather hard from 1st to 2nd but didnt think anythin of it. Went to jump in her yesterday and started it up n while it was still n park she began to roll foreward like she was in neautral. so i shuther down n pushed on her and she rolled n then locked into park:eek:ops:. So i tried it agian n nothin hapened and i was able to get to work but the whole time she was shiftn funny.. not slippin but softly insted of its hard shifting.:banghead:

so my question is should i be lookin at my trans or my rear end to be the?
 
Change the fluid and tranny filter. When you remove the oil pan on the tranny take a pic of it (after draining the fluid but prior to wiping it out/clean) and post the pictures up so we can see
 
Alright sounds like i got sumthin to do this weekend. Il do that when i can. another question tho. When i bought my car it came with an extra 225 slant six and anoth trans?? i belive it is a 904.
My question is can i build the 904 to be competive with a 727?

the reason im askn is im lookin to swap a beefed 360 or a beefed 383:burnout:
 
I don't think that this kid is ready to be dropping the pan on anything just yet...
 
How about the linkage?

Could it be out of adjustment?

Can you fell the different gears if you shift manually?

Is N on the selector really neutral?

Does it drop in to D from N smoothly?
 
How about the linkage?

Could it be out of adjustment?

Can you fell the different gears if you shift manually?

Is N on the selector really neutral?

Does it drop in to D from N smoothly?

Alright.
There is a good chance of it being the linkage because the selector sits a little off from what gear i choose.

Yep was shiften manualy on the way to school today n she was shiften fine.

Well when i choose drive the selector sits between N and D when i put it in drive and when i put it in park the selector goes all the way to P.

N she clunks like a Mother when i go from P to D But from N to D its not that bad but when it like to hang a bit in neautral because when i go from N to D it feels like i do a neutral drop cuz she tachs up then she goes.....
Sounds like a linkage problem now....
 
Since you have a 72, you are ONE LUCKY dude, dude.

Because we just happen to have a 72 factory shop manual posted on this very site:

The thread:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309

72 shop manual:

[ame]http://www.abodyjoe.com/pictures/Misc.%20car%20info/1972%20Plymouth%20Chassis%20Serv%20Man.pdf[/ame]

Start of the auto trans section is page 21-47

Linkage adjustment is page 21-77 (Your car line is "V, L")

You didn't say whether you have a console or column shift?
 

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As a 16 year old (kid) I was given a 72 Duster with a 225/6 by my father as my first car on the condition that I was the one to work on it when it needed it. Yes it is a learning experiance, and yes you can drop the tranny pan with little to no previous work on a car. I replaced a burned piston, replaced a rearend, put on my own shocks, tuned it up, put on a new fuel pump, replaced an alternator, and repaired a fender that had a dent in it.
Kudo's for working on your own car! I don't care what age you are, it puts you a step ahead from what I have seen in recent years.
 
I'd also check the engine mounts and transmission mount.

If they are loose or broken, that can put stress on the linkage.

Revving on it's own, without you pushing the pedal???? That doesn't sound good.

Vacuum issue?
 
Thanks i really need to invest n a shop manual. And she is on th column if that helps. And it does not rev on its own when it feels like it does a neutral drop i am giving it gas so... idont think its a vacume problem...

So Big plans for tomarow get to start lookn into it. The bigest pain of doin any major work is she is my daily driver and iv got a job and school i gota get to so i dont want her out of comision any longer than i have to..
 
Hey Skunk, welcome aboard…

We all started with no experience at some point, but that is what a brain and books are for, to use others experience to our advantage. First you need to find and purchase a Factory Service Manual, which will answer 90% of any questions you may have with the correct information. I prefer a paper copy because you can make notes in it, and easily drag it under the car if needed, and will work after being dropped or anointed with oil if you get my drift. It will be the best bang-for-the-buck tool in your box that you can spend on your new ride.

I think that worn linkage or its maladjustment, and possibly bad motor mounts as listed previously are the best places to start looking as well. Keep in mind when approaching any problem on this car, start with the easy stuff first, and always conduct diagnostics before just tossing parts on it. Working smart is a lot cheaper and quicker in the long run.

We are always here to bounce ideas off of, and help, so don’t shy…
 
Alright sounds like i got sumthin to do this weekend. Il do that when i can. another question tho. When i bought my car it came with an extra 225 slant six and anoth trans?? i belive it is a 904.
My question is can i build the 904 to be competive with a 727?

the reason im askn is im lookin to swap a beefed 360 or a beefed 383


First, welcome to FABO from SoCal! You'll find lots of help from the great people here.

To answer your question, yes a 904 can be built to be competitive with a 727. In fact, a lot of people like the 904 better because it's lighter in weight and there's not as much power lost through it.
However, you'll never be able to use your 904s behind a V8 - either small or big block - because your slant 6 trannys have a different bellhousing that were designed only for the slants.
 
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