autocross front suspension

[amzchad]

Im going to start off first by introducing myself. My name is Chad i am 17 and i work at little ceasers and go to school. So take that into mind. I drive a 74 dart sport and i would love to get into autocross. My car is equiped with the small bolt pattern and im looking to go to the larger one and i would like disc breaks. I want to set my car up for great handling. i drive some of the most twisty and turny roads on my way to school. Im up in the mountains. This being i would like to have this setup for my daily driving and also taking it to the auto cross track when i can. What would be an affordable but good route to take when it comes to my front suspension.

 

[Aaron]

Its not too difficult to make the a-body cars handle with mostly factory parts and maybe a few aftermarket (sway bar's ). I would get a copy of the "Performace Handling For Classic Mopars" by Tom Condran. Its an excellent book that explains how to update your suspension with factory parts to make it handle great, and do it with your own tools. It tells you what parts interchange from what bodies in to what, as well as what tricks you can do (such as C-body 11/16th tie rods and adjusters in place of the a-body stuff). It covers everything in great detail and is easy to follow and very well thought out. So, I would get the book, and maybe a copy of the factory service manual if you dont already have it. Best of luck, there is lots of knowledge in these forums.

 

[amzchad]

Thanks so much

I think i will look into that book. I would appreciate any help i can get

 

[AndyF]

A 1974 car has the larger front ball joint and the bigger wheel bearings already. 11.75 rotors will slide right onto your drum brake knuckles and give you the big bolt pattern. The only issue with that deal is that you have to come up with some early Viper calipers to make it all work which might not be cost effective for you.

Option B is to just find some late model FMJ car and grab the disc brakes and knuckles from it and bolt it on. Your late model drum knuckles are worth some bucks so put them up for sale rather than tossing them. Someone else will want them to do the Viper swap onto their car.

 

[amzchad]

Now that I know that it may b worth monkey. How much do u think they are worth cause I will sell another set I have to help get what I want

 

[Jim Lusk]

Lots of FMJ cars in the local self serve wrecking yards so that shouldn't be an issue. My son's 67 Barracuda is a decent formula for an autocross car, although even a-bodies are awfully large for most courses. Alan's car took some changes and then some engine and money problems pretty much ended the racing, but here's the basics (bear in mind this car has an iron-headed 383 and a four speed):

First setup:
.990" torsion bars with a factory big block front sway bar, home-built rear springs, KYB shocks, manual steering, Kelsey-Hayes front discs, 10" rear drums.

The first change was to power steering for the faster ratio, not the ease of steering.

Next came a bigger front sway bar along with a rear bar.

Big bolt brakes were next, not for better braking, but we actually broke the center of a home-built 15x10 small bolt wheel.

1.14" torsion bars followed.

My son drove this car daily and drove it from Fresno to San Luis Obispo many times for college.

 

[C130 Chief]

If you actually plan to autocross the car, I suggest you download the SCCA rulebook and read it thoroughly. Decide what class you wish to compete in. It is quite easy to make a simple modification that will put your car into a class where you will be less competitive. I made this mistake with my last TR-6. Next, get involved with your local SCCA chapter and go see what guys are running. Volunteer to be a corner worker and learn the sport. Doing this will cost you almost nothing, and you are likely to make many friends and connections.

As for the car, start with a quality front end rebuild and go from there. There are a few who post in these forums who autocross and road race A bodies, and a fair amount has been posted. The "search" button is your friend.

Most importantly, have fun.

 

[6T9 V-100]

Hey Chad- Tom lives in the 'Frisco area. Nice guy, very approachable. Andy F is also a good, knowledgeable guy...check out AR Engineering out of Oregon, that's him!