Axle bearing question

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Cliffjumper

Cliffjumper

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I want to replace the axle bearings on my A-body axles with the Green Bearings from Mopar Performance. I understand that the old ones need to be pressed off and the new ones pressed on. A friend of mine has a tall press in his shop that I plan to use. Neither of us have experience in this. Before we go and wing it I wanted to post this up and see what ya'll think. What should I do to prep for this if anything? Has anyone done this before? How'd ya do it?
 
I would suggest against using green bearings if you still have a stock differential that can support the thrust block. They wear out quicker and cannot take the side loads that the OEM bearings can. Setting them is easy. Go to harbor freight and get a dial indicatior and a magnetic stand...will cost $20. Then you just set them for .008"-.018" end play.

If you do have to use green bearings, use the Moser ones with the external snap ring. they are the next best choice.

You'll need the press and one of the bearing separators or whatever they're called.
 
I already have the MP bearings I bought through Jeg's. Really... Don't use em'?? By the way I'm building an 8 3/4, 489 case, 3.91 ring and pinion, sure-grip, sbp axles.
 
Press the old bearings off and press the new ones on and don't forget the interference fit ring that goes on after the bearing. I've been running the Greens for years without any problems and you don't need the axle thrust block in the middle of the differential so I'd recommend removing it all together. The greens are also pregreased so no greasing required. The MP bearings you got probably have the flange fixed to them right, well this flange has been known to come loose from the bearing race. The Moser bearing has a seperate flange and the bearing itself uses a snap ring on the O.D. of the bearing race.

This probably what ya got and chances are it'll work fine. http://store.summitracing.com/partd...821803+4294848677+4294902583+115&autoview=sku

But this is what I prefer. http://store.summitracing.com/partd...821803+4294848677+4294902583+115&autoview=sku

Terry
 
goldduster318 said:
I would suggest against using green bearings if you still have a stock differential that can support the thrust block. They wear out quicker and cannot take the side loads that the OEM bearings can. Setting them is easy. Go to harbor freight and get a dial indicatior and a magnetic stand...will cost $20. Then you just set them for .008"-.018" end play.

If you do have to use green bearings, use the Moser ones with the external snap ring. they are the next best choice.

You'll need the press and one of the bearing separators or whatever they're called.
Click to expand...
I second this caution on the green bearings{or other non adjustable} like was said they are not worth messing with for the street, stock bearings are low maintnance and strong enough for just about anything .
 
bearings 101 the green bearings are ball bearings they are pore thrust bearings. the loads are on a small area on the ball. the stock bearings are tapered roller bearings they love thrust loads. the weight is over a much larger area witch makes them a hell of a lot stronger.
 
The extra expense and hassle of the stock are worth it...did green bearings once. ONCE!
 
I replaced my rear axle bearings by cutting off the originals with a chisel. I took the axles up to a friend at a local shop and we (pressed the axle on the bearing). I say pressed the axle on the bearing because we oriented the axle down and pushed the axle down on the anchored bearing/race. I used the original style bearing.
 
Longgone said:
I replaced my rear axle bearings by cutting off the originals with a chisel. I took the axles up to a friend at a local shop and we (pressed the axle on the bearing). I say pressed the axle on the bearing because we oriented the axle down and pushed the axle down on the anchored bearing/race. I used the original style bearing.
Click to expand...
Got them in on friday. Heated up the original bearing race and just pressed em off. Waited for the axles to cool down, threw some oil around the area of the axle and the bearing. Pressed em' down using a tall pipe on a tall press.
As of now theyre all torqued down. Taking a further look at the original bearings it looks like one of the axles was trying to work its way out... They had to go.
:toothy10:
 
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