Axle shaft broke 8 3/4

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Axle steel was a very specically ordered heat of steel. Can't remember the grade number but I know it had vanadium added for durability.
 
I think what happened is the person I bought this 8 3/4 from said it came out of an early 70s power wagon truck.
He said the original owner of the truck over loaded it with hay and it broke something in the axle when it happened.
And dodge had to put a new third member and a new set of gears in it for warranty.
Cause I asked if he knew what kind of shape the gears were in and he said they should be good and told me the story about how they over loaded the truck with hay and broke the axle and dodge replaced the third member and gears and housing for them.
Im wondering if they put the axle shafts back on the new housing and third member.
This happening has me kind of nervous and I've been considering just buying new axle shafts but I can't seem
To find new axle shafts in the larger 5x5.5 bolt pattern.
So I have the spare axle shaft that has the correct wheel bolt pattern and I need to clean it up and install a new bearing and race on it.
The passenger side axle shaft I think I will grease the bearing and throw it back in and hope for the best.
 
AJ/FormS said:
The axle that is still in the truck, could be, maybe should be, magnaflux checked, since the bearing is coming off anyway.That should give you peace of mind.
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Well I was thinking about leaving the passenger side bearing alone because it looks like it's in good condition.
I was thinking id just grease it and put it back in, but if I can find a shop to
Replace the bearings on both axle shafts for a decent price I might just do that.
Who would be able to x-Ray the shafts and or magnaflux them?
 
Well I got my spare axle shaft home and next to the other axle shafts that were in the axle and noticed my spare is a little different.
My spare axle shaft has a little longer taper on the end of it where the splines are that slide it into the third member.
Does this matter? I was thinking it shouldn't matter as long as they are the same length which they appear to be and as long as they had the same spline count, which they do. It's a 30 spline shaft.
I posted some pics below to show the difference in the taper on my spare shaft and on the shaft that was in it.

image.jpeg
 
I would think most auto machine shops would have access to something such as Zyglo penetrant and or an actual Magnaflux machine. Certainly they could point you to a shop that does have it if they don't.
Anyone producing aircraft engine parts might even be a source.
 
How about the difference in the taper on the two axle shafts, is that going to matter? I'm thinking no it won't matter but just wanting to clarify.
 
IMO, Looks like the splines on the rusty axle has seen some hard times.
As long as the spline length, spline end to bearing stop and flange are correct, the under cut shouldn't hurt you unless it is into the seal.
 
Daves69 said:
IMO, Looks like the splines on the rusty axle has seen some hard times.
As long as the spline length, spline end to bearing stop and flange are correct, the under cut shouldn't hurt you unless it is into the seal.
Click to expand...

Well ya I planned on cleaning up the splines and the whole entire axle shaft and throwing a new bearing on it before slapping it on.
It's just the correct bolt pattern for
My truck so it's the cheapest easiest route I can take to get the truck back on the road
 
the spare passenger side axle had torque applied in 1 direction for years, now installing it on the driver side will torque on it in the opposite direction-not good. with those deep dish wheels I would buy 2 new axles from Moser or Strange engineering etc.
 
Marcohotrod said:
the spare passenger side axle had torque applied in 1 direction for years, now installing it on the driver side will torque on it in the opposite direction-not good. with those deep dish wheels I would buy 2 new axles from Moser or Strange engineering etc.
Click to expand...

I would if I could find them in 30 spline with the larger 5x5.5 bolt pattern, but I can't.
Every axle shaft I have seen for sale has the smaller 5x4.5 bolt pattern for the cars.
And the drivers side axle doesn't work that hard does it? I thought all the power went to the passenger side rear tire?
I don't have a lot of money and don't really have much aftermarket support ether since this is on a truck with the bigger bolt pattern.
Maybe I will just have both axle shafts magnafluxed for piece of mind.
I just want to get the truck back on the road cause it's broke down in front of my house talking up parking spots.
Maybe I will slap it together with what I have and then save up for some new axle shafts and look a little harder for new ones in the bolt pattern I need.
 
The drivers side axle shares the load 50/50 with the pass axle. The only reason an open differential doesn't spin both tires is torque twists the rearend and lifts the right side taking weight off of it so it has less traction. I understand the money situation but that used axle looks like garbage to me, the splines in particular. I bet if you called Moser or Strange they'd make you axles that have the wheel bolt pattern you need. If you don't have money for new shafts advertise for a good used set. Surely someone has some
 
fishy68 said:
The drivers side axle shares the load 50/50 with the pass axle. The only reason an open differential doesn't spin both tires is torque twists the rearend and lifts the right side taking weight off of it so it has less traction. I understand the money situation but that used axle looks like garbage to me, the splines in particular. I bet if you called Moser or Strange they'd make you axles that have the wheel bolt pattern you need. If you don't have money for new shafts advertise for a good used set. Surely someone has some
Click to expand...
When I had two axles at Strange, they were too long for the dart housing, had be shortened and re-tempered. It took a long, long time because they were undergoing major inside reconfiguring in their building.
So for a year or more I had police 15 x 7 wheels on the front discs with the 5 inch pattern, and the old 7 1/4 rear end with the 4
and 1/2 pattern on the back.
I hand drilled the small pattern into the rear wheels, and drove it that way while I waited for the shortened axles to be ready for the waiting 8 3/4 rear end.
The center hole was not carrying any load but nothing ever broke.
Always was worried I'd have a flat on the front and have to move a rear wheel to the front, and throw the small pattern 14" on the back, but that didn't happen.
I think they maybe shortened AND even somehow resplined them , and annealed them. I was a one hour drive from Strange, but was so happy to get a call that they were done.
They looked like new axles, and the fit was perfect to work with the tapered bearings.
Call Strange, (it's pronounced Strang(e) with a hard G and barely there "e").
They will be able to help.
 
I understand the concern with the axle shaft being run on the opposite side. A valid point but I would put it together with what you have. Some times you gotta make do how ya can with what ya got.
Just be cautious with it till it earns your confidence.
At least he's not wanting to balewire a tierod end or tarp strap in a gas tank. I guess my point is I've seen
people do less favorable repairs than this.
 
As said, that spare shaft's splines have seen some hard use; they are 'mooshed' a bit where they engaged the side gears in the diff. For sure, I would wire wheel the crap out of it, and use a fine triangular file to clean out the rust, taking off as little.

The taper difference won't have any effect on any stress out under the bearing so that is not an issue. But with the spline wear, I would not be romping on it a lot on pavement or in a rocky area. You don't need to twist out the splines in the axle or side gear.
 
Rust does look bad, clean it well before pushing into side gear.
 
Yes the axle is very rusty, I wire wheeled it very well, the splines don't look Mooshed to me or bad, they are very rusty that's for sure, but they don't look un-usable.
Once I have it completely cleaned up with a new bearing on it I'll post some pics of it and you guys can check out the splines on this shaft when it's clean, cause to me they only look bad because of the rust.
 
What is the wheel bolt pattern? If you need another axle in the future, I have several, depending on the if it is 5 on 4 1/2 or 5 on 5
 
ssba said:
I understand the concern with the axle shaft being run on the opposite side. A valid point but I would put it together with what you have. Some times you gotta make do how ya can with what ya got.
Just be cautious with it till it earns your confidence.
At least he's not wanting to balewire a tierod end or tarp strap in a gas tank. I guess my point is I've seen
people do less favorable repairs than this.
Click to expand...
My daily driver '72 has a rotted out trunk floor, and the gas tank is held in with aircraft control cables and clamps by the rear bumper. 5 years now....no problems.
No zip ties for me. There's always a safe way to get by. Made a huge bolt-in torsion bar anchor for the same car pass side, car hasn't collapsedd yet....
 
On swapping axles from side to side.... Probably not an issue in mom and pop cars but one that see lots of torque or HP is another story. Both my Cuda and the dragster had twist in the spline area from hard acceleration. Swapping these from side to side would be like swapping torsion bars side to side. The reverse torque usually snaps them pretty quick.
 
my 8 3/4 came out of a little farm truck that had a 318 in it.
I doubht it has any spline twist from excessive torque.
I don't think I'm going to have an issue running a passenger side axle shaft on the drivers side.
But I will keep it all in mind and when I get the money I will just order brand new axle shafts, but right now I can't afford it.
 
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