Received my axle package from Dr Diff. Can't wait to install them
They're not welded, and 2'' grade 8 bolts so that's an upside.The problem I had with them was the heads of the bolt hitting the park brake strut . You may have to have a machine shop cut them thinner while on the axle if they are spot welded
I believe they spot weld them in, If not they should be or when going to tighten the lugs at times the bolt turns in out of the axle and hits the wheel cyl. when driving . They should be cut before installing in the axle. I have seen guys grind them. Your choice but the head should be the same thickness as the studs removed and then spot weld them in. We do these all the time the difference is we use grade 8 bolts or screw in race studs . You need to use bolts because there isn't enough room for good pressed studs.
Your in luck. Take them out and have them cut to the original stud head thickness and spot weld them after reinstall.They're not welded, and 2'' grade 8 bolts so that's an upside.
Thanks, for the heads up. I emailed Dr. Diff and I'm just waiting for a reply concerning this.Your in luck. Take them out and have them cut to the original stud head thickness and spot weld them after reinstall.
Cutting them is to clear the park brake strut if you using your park brake. Spot welding them is to prevent them from turning in when installing lugs.
Have fun
Thanks, I'm hoping that they have an explanation because they specifically asked quite a few application questions initially and I mentioned why I went this particular route. There was no mention from them about any type of potential interference with the parking brake strut. So, I'll just wait for their reply.FWIW, I recall having issues with screw in studs on the re-drilled stock flanges. Loctite only lasted a short time. If they weren't tack welded they'd back out on ya' when swapping wheels. Was using 1/2 X 20 X 2" RH Gr 8 cap screws with ground heads.
My "re-drilled" Mosers have a thicker flange and use press in studs.
We face the heads down in a lathe of all the bolts to the same thickness as the factory heads on the studs then screw them in from the back and tack weld them. No matter what they say, You should do this. We had a customer that came here with the same issue . A head caught the brake strut while driving and made a mess of the brake lining and hardware . We towed it in and had a hard time removing the brake drum.Thanks, I'm hoping that they have an explanation because they specifically asked quite a few application questions initially and I mentioned why I went this particular route. There was no mention from them about any type of potential interference with the parking brake strut. So, I'll just wait for their reply.
Received an email from Cass, and she claims that they are unaware of any problem with the bolt heads interfering with the parking brake strut. They did say if that was a problem to mount the axle in a lathe and turn the bolt heads down that way.Your in luck. Take them out and have them cut to the original stud head thickness and spot weld them after reinstall.
Cutting them is to clear the park brake strut if you using your park brake. Spot welding them is to prevent them from turning in when installing lugs.
Have fun