Received my axle package from Dr Diff. Can't wait to install them
Axles and re-drilled rear drums for 4.5 bolt pattern
- Thread starter A56
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The problem I had with them was the heads of the bolt hitting the park brake strut . You may have to have a machine shop cut them thinner while on the axle if they are spot welded
I believe they spot weld them in, If not they should be or when going to tighten the lugs at times the bolt turns in out of the axle and hits the wheel cyl. when driving . They should be cut before installing in the axle. I have seen guys grind them. Your choice but the head should be the same thickness as the studs removed and then spot weld them in. We do these all the time the difference is we use grade 8 bolts or screw in race studs . You need to use bolts because there isn't enough room for good pressed studs.
I believe they spot weld them in, If not they should be or when going to tighten the lugs at times the bolt turns in out of the axle and hits the wheel cyl. when driving . They should be cut before installing in the axle. I have seen guys grind them. Your choice but the head should be the same thickness as the studs removed and then spot weld them in. We do these all the time the difference is we use grade 8 bolts or screw in race studs . You need to use bolts because there isn't enough room for good pressed studs.
When I did my 72 8-3/4 (small bolt to big bolt conversion) but left the factory 1-3/4”x10 shoes and backing plates / drums (re drilled) I had no issues. (Mosier axles not Dr Diff)
When I did my 66 8-3/4 (small bolt to big bolt) I used 10x 2-1/2 shoes and backing plates / hardware new drums and did have to grind a touch- those were Doctor Diff. But I knew going into it that may happen.
Syleng1
When I did my 66 8-3/4 (small bolt to big bolt) I used 10x 2-1/2 shoes and backing plates / hardware new drums and did have to grind a touch- those were Doctor Diff. But I knew going into it that may happen.
Syleng1
They're not welded, and 2'' grade 8 bolts so that's an upside.
Thanks, for the heads up. I emailed Dr. Diff and I'm just waiting for a reply concerning this.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
FWIW, I recall having issues with screw in studs on the re-drilled stock flanges. Loctite only lasted a short time. If they weren't tack welded they'd back out on ya' when swapping wheels. Was using 1/2 X 20 X 2" RH Gr 8 cap screws with ground heads.
My "re-drilled" Mosers have a thicker flange and use press in studs.
My "re-drilled" Mosers have a thicker flange and use press in studs.
Thanks, I'm hoping that they have an explanation because they specifically asked quite a few application questions initially and I mentioned why I went this particular route. There was no mention from them about any type of potential interference with the parking brake strut. So, I'll just wait for their reply.
We face the heads down in a lathe of all the bolts to the same thickness as the factory heads on the studs then screw them in from the back and tack weld them. No matter what they say, You should do this. We had a customer that came here with the same issue . A head caught the brake strut while driving and made a mess of the brake lining and hardware . We towed it in and had a hard time removing the brake drum.
Not only are the thicker heads the problem but they also turn in at times when installing the wheel. Don't take the chance have them machined and welded. I believe 1/8 should be the thickness of the head. We also have a 6 point socket turned down on the end to take the bevel off the inside of the socket so it grips the bolt better for torque installation before welding.
Received an email from Cass, and she claims that they are unaware of any problem with the bolt heads interfering with the parking brake strut. They did say if that was a problem to mount the axle in a lathe and turn the bolt heads down that way.
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