twayne24365
Well-Known Member
Maybe a dumb question here butnis this just a small block thing or do you take care of big block rockers as well?
Maybe a dumb question here butnis this just a small block thing or do you take care of big block rockers as well?
Not a dumb question. Yes, the same principles apply to a BB, even to a slant six.
x2 , good questionThanks, another question,
Since a roller tipped rocker has such a smaller contact area on the valve how would these principals apply to say an adjustable ductil iron rocker such as the crane or isky's that have a much broader contact area? Is it still just limiting the "sweep" that the rocker has?
it's the roller itself that throws off the geometry so badly. A factory type rocker will not usually be off by that much, but I usually recommend a lash cap on a stock length valve when lifts go over .550". They can be made exact, but it takes some in house machining to accomplish that. Most roller rocker combinations are off over .200", which is far worse than the roughly .050" a factory type rocker would be off at .550". That isn't an exact number because there are other specs that have an effect as well.Thanks, another question,
Since a roller tipped rocker has such a smaller contact area on the valve how would these principals apply to say an adjustable ductil iron rocker such as the crane or isky's that have a much broader contact area? Is it still just limiting the "sweep" that the rocker has?
would like to know if your kit can be installed at home with what tools and what all info do you need to make up a kit?
One meeelliunn dahlllers! Email or PM for sales info. Not doing that here. No, I don't need the engine, or even the heads. Just some engine specs.How much does B3 charge for correcting valve train geometry and what all is involved? Seems like they would need the engine in hand to work their magic, no?
It's a bolt on deal, with some clearancing possible. It is reasonably priced.So what is the process to install a kit? Not arguing - just curious if it's the same approach as billet shaft supports. IMO, and not that I've had any issues personally with it, anything that can improve Mopar geometry should be welcomed - especially if it's inexpensive.
Lash caps are a big no-no with a roller rocker, unless using titanium valves. It make the geometry worse. Proper geometry is not just having the sweep centered.I've always had lash caps on my regular adjustable rockers and have seemed to be fine, but when I put dads motor together "440 source heads and roller rockers" I had a helluva time with an adjustable pushrod and shaft shims to get the geometry "ok"
Email me for the info required. I have a word document attachment that I will attach to a reply. It can be installed at home with the tools needed to remove and install the rocker shaft. You might need a die grinder to do some clearancing, and a length checking pushrod would be a good idea.I have a big block stroker and would like to know If your kit can be installed at home with what tools and what all info do you need to make up a kit?
Hi,Mike,what happened to the news letter? Mark
:glasses7: This is looking to be one comment away from another "hellcat" post. Trolls be trolling......... :glasses7:
Hi Greg,Hi Mike, whats the problem with lash caps and roller rockers please, would you mind passing on your tech on that to us numpties please.
I have some closed chamber W2 race heads with HS rockers that Im right in the middle of sorting out roller sweep contact, it has 2.08 valves and needs a .060 lash cap to set up nicley, if I need to go longer in the valve stem I can but its adding up the $$$$ figures particularly with the Aussie Peso at the moment.
Greg
Hi Greg,
The lash caps make the valve longer which is the equivalent of making the already too low fulcrum point even lower. The correct approach would be to raise the rocker shaft the proper amount and offset to where the roller is still somewhat centered on the valve tip. A big problem with the Harlands is their excessive fulcrum length. That's why it looks like you need the lash caps to center the roller, but that just makes the sweep worse. It will probably roll way over to the exhaust side of the valve tip.
A lot of titanium valves don't have the pressed in hardened tip, so a lash cap is necessary for protecting the soft tip of the valve. It still makes the valve longer, so more correction would be required than without the cap.Thanks Mike
I think we had to cap it due to valve length as the sweep was intake side but let me have another detailed look into what's going on here, I guess what drove the question was the use of lash caps on titanium valves only comment
Again, like all of us, appreciate your support, knowledge and willingness to be patient
Greg