Bad Hadraulic Lifters, Maybe?

-
How are you making out with the engine ? ? ?

any bearing damage,, ? ?

..and did you find out what jambed up the pump ? ? ? ?

hope all is well...
 
dodge freak said:
You gotta prime a new oil pump with oil before installing it; if you did not it never suck any oil up and just froze from lack of oil.

Pour some oil in from the top of the oil pump and then I like to drop the pump in a small tub of oil and spin away to get it working. Messy but works. You never ever install a dry oil pump--unless you can pressure feed the oil lines from the filter area--shop equipment stuff most of us do not have
Click to expand...

Totally not true on pre oiling the pump. Like stated earlier by fishy68 the tolerances are so tight it will suck oil no problem. I have never pre primed a pump. However I do fill the oil filter with oil before I prime the engine with a drill. I have never had an oiling issue, ever.

Another thing to watch out for is the clocking of the pickup. If its too far one way or the other the rods can smack the pick up on rotation... You would have to be pretty far off but it's happened. Knock knock noise.......
 
yeah,, it's a possitive dissplacement pump.... even run dry,, they suck.. something jambed it..

Internal Gear Pump Overview
The internal gear pump is non-pulsing, self-priming, and can run dry for short periods. They're also bi-rotational, meaning that the same pump can be used to load and unload vessels. Because internal gear pumps have only two moving parts, they are reliable, simple to operate, and easy to maintain.

http://www.pumpschool.com/principles/internal.asp
 
The trouble isn't a locked up pump or any other crapola. This is user error. The pump was damaged on on installation. Should have made sure the drive shaft was in the hex BEFORE tightening the oil pump mounting bolts. Another and better option is to remove the drive shaft before installing the oil pump.
 
I was trying to be a little more diplomatic,, - while making new engine builders a little more aware...
....

But your way works... lol

I'm just curious,, I like to know WHY things fail - - - now... were he to find a piece of welding slag jambed in the rotors, new pump, new pick-up..-.-

....hmm ... ask me how I know...... ...

what you say now???
 
I've had welding slag go thru a pump as well.LOL I Doubt it would damage the pump in that way. The rear main cap must be fu(ked up as well.
 
goldmember said:
The trouble isn't a locked up pump or any other crapola. This is user error. The pump was damaged on on installation. Should have made sure the drive shaft was in the hex BEFORE tightening the oil pump mounting bolts. Another and better option is to remove the drive shaft before installing the oil pump.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you nailed it. Kinda weird though cause the pump should have turned when installing it you would think to accept the hex on the oil pump drive shaft. Must have been just right to not engage the drive. I also don't see how the pump could have got close enough to mate on the cap. Seems the OP when installing it used brute force when tightening those bolts down. But then again wouldn't the bolts be too far away to even start the threads?? We're longer bolts used to bring the pump close enough and then the stock bolts used to draw the pump to the cap?.... I'm lost on that one:banghead:

I think I just reasoned myself out of your theory.....
 
If it jambed the pump... it wouldn't get to the mains.. (perhaps making him very lucky)

and tolerences on the pumps, don't take chunks.. lol

and before the next pump fails,, why not figure out the reason the first one failed..

thnx MD... lol
 
inertia said:
If it jambed the pump... it wouldn't get to the mains..

and tolerences on the pumps, don't take chunks.. lol

thnx MD... lol
Click to expand...

I'm not talking about oil getting to the mains. Talking about mating surfaces. If the oil pump shaft is not down in the pump you could not get the bolt threads started right?

Must be something in that pump. Fishy68 mentioned he found stuff in them from the factory.

I can see what you are talking about if the pump jammed with welding slag or something like that or if there was no screen and it sucked up a small nut or something. The cam would still turn the oil pick up destroying itself and the pump. I hear you on that one.
 
Mad Dart said:
I'm not talking about oil getting to the mains. Talking about mating surfaces. If the oil pump shaft is not down in the pump you could not get the bolt threads started right?

Must be something in that pump. Fishy68 mentioned he found stuff in them from the factory.

I can see what you are talking about if the pump jammed with welding slag or something like that or if there was no screen and it sucked up a small nut or something. The cam would still turn the oil pick up destroying itself and the pump. I hear you on that one.
Click to expand...
---------------------

Yep.. agree with everything you're saying..

I just wanna know why the first pump failed.. conclusively..

been there, a coupla times .. not going back

BUT . . .. if it's a piece of welding slag,... bigger than the screen... then I'd be showing that to my parts supplier,, ( and depending on your relationship.. perhaps my Lawyer business card..)

perhaps.. consideration for future purchases... I dunno...

I'd just wanna know..
 
Yes ,the pump should be opened to have a look. I had an issue 20 yrs ago when a chunk of slag went through the pump,lost 10 or so psi and wondered why. LOL Opened the pump to find a nice dimple in the rotors. Put it back on and raced it for years. Glad it didn't lock the pump. I see no way a chunk of slag did the damage the OP posted,but maybe I'll learn something new. Later
 
I've lived it......

first one,, my own.. hemi.. extended my own pick-up...

second one .. Starts with M.. ends with N...
 
LOL my pickup starts with an M ends with an O. WTF is up with these guys! I'll build my own from here out.
 
I have been playing with this lately after changing cams and needing to change to a brass gear for the oil pump drive shaft. With the oil pump installed the oil pump drive shaft will engage the hex before it will engage the cam gears - I think. Sure feels that way cause you can turn the oil pump with the drive shaft before the gears engage. That is good because then you can align the gears the way you want and the hex is already engaged so it is not interfering. I can see where trying to force the drive shaft down with the hex not engaged properly might cause the damage to the pump drive that you showed. I am just guessing.

Something wrong with the brass gear drive shaft (M..n or M..o?) design? The all steel shaft I took off didn't have a pin attaching the gear to the shaft, the new brass gear design does.

You guys ever try to put the dist into the oil pump drive gear outside the engine to see how tight/loose it is? The blade on the MSD dist I had been running would not fit into the hole on top of the oil pump drive brass gear - the damn hole was a little too small! I ended up having to gring a little off the sides of the dist blade on the tip of the dist shaft and drove the dist into the oil pump drive. They are now a nice tight unit and that is how I discovered that the hex of the oil pump drive would engage the oil pump before the cam gear - when I was indexing the dist/drive assy to get the rotor pointed where it is supposed to be. If I had not tried to check that fit, who knows the damage that may have occurred when installing the dist with the oil pump drive shaft already installed.

I think you should always check new parts for fitment.

Sorry to hear about your issue - like MRL says, not good to run without oil pressure. Can you pull some main and rod caps to look at the bearings / journals?

Oh, as for the lifters... My stroker was built, dyno'd, then put in a bag for 3 years with the rockers still bolted on tight. I got it from the PO and put it in my fish after doing the oil prime routine. Ran great but kinda had hard starting issues. When I took the motor out and was unbolting the rockers for storage I noticed that some of the lifters had soft plungers (Comp hyd). I think they collapsed from having the valves open so long and the main springs overcame the light lifter springs. That may be your problem with some of the lifters being squishy.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top