Bad Headlight Switch?

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blewbyoutobad

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
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When I restored my 69 Swinger I bought a new headlight switch from Ron Francis. I'm thinking its junk. Low beams work ok but high beams trip the circuit breaker inside the switch. Also overhead light is flaky when using the switch to turn it on manually. Standard Sylvania 7" Halogen at 5amps each so total 10 amps. Switch supposed to be able to handle 15 amps. Sound right?
Thanks FABO
 
Check the dimmer switch, lots of lighting issues can be traced to a wonky dimmer. Maybe a short in that mamma jamma.
 
Pet Peeve!

A big "No" to all the wiring alternatives and drop the cash for M&H original repo's! JMO!

If you run a race car ok, If not buy M&H!
 
Check the dimmer switch, lots of lighting issues can be traced to a wonky dimmer. Maybe a short in that mamma jamma.
Could also be a problem with the bulkhead connector. It's a very common issue. There can be corrosion of terminals from water intrusion and/or overheating.
 
Get @crackedback Rob's headlight harness. Best thing I ever did to mine. In short, NO, your stock Mopar wiring and stock style switch are not made to handle stock headlights very well, much less any type of upgrade. You can prove this easily by turning the lights on ans letting it sit about 15 minutes. Reach under the dash and the switch will be hot. That's a failing (one of many) of the Mopar system.....and really all of them for about the same time era. The harness Rob makes uses the headlight switch as a low amperage trigger to fire the relays that handle the load. You also get full alternator voltage to the headlights. That means bright! And yes, if the switch is wonky with the dome light, it sounds like a POS.
 
the headlight harness upgrade is truly worth doing my car was not really safe to drive after dark but now after the upgrade my lights are every bit as good if not better than the wife's new Honda pilot . it is a pleasure to drive at night now .
 
Could also be a problem with the bulkhead connector. It's a very common issue. There can be corrosion of terminals from water intrusion and/or overheating.
Thank you but I have all an aftermarket wiring harness. No bulkhead anymore. I have an amp meter I will place on the headlight wiring to see the amperage per side. If its within spec when they shut off my guess is a bad switch.
 
Get @crackedback Rob's headlight harness. Best thing I ever did to mine. In short, NO, your stock Mopar wiring and stock style switch are not made to handle stock headlights very well, much less any type of upgrade. You can prove this easily by turning the lights on ans letting it sit about 15 minutes. Reach under the dash and the switch will be hot. That's a failing (one of many) of the Mopar system.....and really all of them for about the same time era. The harness Rob makes uses the headlight switch as a low amperage trigger to fire the relays that handle the load. You also get full alternator voltage to the headlights. That means bright! And yes, if the switch is wonky with the dome light, it sounds like a POS.
Correct answer.
 
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