Bad idea?

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pikewi

pikewi

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I am ready to work on the underneath of my 68 Cuda vert. I don't have access to a rotisserie so was toying with the idea of putting the bumper brackets on the shell, bolting pieces of angle iron to them and using engine stands front and rear bolted to the angle iron to make the shell rotate. I have a PHD in farmerizing but about a 50% success rate. See any problems with my idea?
Sorry if this post is in the wrong place.
 
It`s been done, but I sure would`nt trust bumper brackets.
Plus engine stands probably would`nt get you high enough for complete revolution.
If you go this route, I`d tie the 2 stands together @ bottom.
 
A while back someone posted up pics of a homemade version made of wood... After seeing how he made it, it looked like a decent alternative, and not too 'farmish' lol
 
The necks on mine go up at an angle. The base is to narrow. The legs are too short.The stem is too short.
But if you cut all the good bits up, and raid the junkpile., might be do-able
Post er up when you got er farmerized
 
Farmish? Is that next to shadetree? LOL
 
If you look at a rotisserie you will see the two posts tied together. You would need to do something to prevent the engine stands from drifting apart.
 
pikewi said:
I don't have access to a rotisserie so was toying with the idea of putting the bumper brackets on the shell, bolting pieces of angle iron to them and using engine stands front and rear bolted to the angle iron to make the shell rotate. I have a PHD in farmerizing but about a 50% success rate. See any problems with my idea?.
Click to expand...

I did a quick web search for home made rotisseries, plenty of them have been done. Even with the use of a couple engine stands. I found this:

"That's very similar to what I did, except I made the masts taller by buying a 3rd engine stand and cutting it up and adding I think a foot more height to the rotisserie. This allows the Z to spin all the way around, although there isn't much clearance on the rear fenders. If I had to do it again, I'd add just a bit more so that I could bolt on my flares and spin it without knocking them off."
 

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Thanks for all the replies. I was thinking of something like bighammer posted. Also if I weren't to use the bumper brackets as attachment points where would I attach?
 
I would like to add a couple of questions: 1) Should the windshield and back glass be removed before rotation? (I picture glass cracking from stress movement) 2) I think I have seen pictures of convertibles tilted that had some kind of crude tubing welded into the door openings, is that necessary and if so, what is the procedure? Thank you, interesting post.
 
Pictures of my 69 'cuda on my home made rotisserie. I scrounged up parts and bought some steel from work for scrap price. Free 5" casters, free angle iron with all those holes to tie the front and rear together near the floor. Wood was left over from landscaping project. I used a hunk of 2" black pipe inside of 2-1/2" pipe for the pivots. My labor was free and had welders already.

I was a little off on the CG but it rotates fine, just a little bottom heavy. I made it non-adjustable so it fits my car specifically.

I used the front bumper bracket tapped holes in the front frame rails to attach short lengths of 1-1/2" angle iron then welded a cross piece to that with the 2" pipe welded in the center. Used the rear bumper mounting holes also to bolt short lengths of angle iron flat to the body. welded another longer piece of angle iron to those with the 2" pipe stub in the middle.

When these cars are completely stripped they don't weigh much but if I were doing a vert I'd definitely weld cross bracing through the door openings.

In all seriousness I spent right around ten bucks out of pocket and half of that was for hardware.
 

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dibbons said:
I would like to add a couple of questions: 1) Should the windshield and back glass be removed before rotation? (I picture glass cracking from stress movement) 2) I think I have seen pictures of convertibles tilted that had some kind of crude tubing welded into the door openings, is that necessary and if so, what is the procedure? Thank you, interesting post.
Click to expand...

I don't think removing the glass is absolutely necessary. Depending on what kind of work you are planning to do. If you have a car that stripped down, I would think you'd want to remove the glass just to inspect/repair the window channels These cars are uni-bodies with the heavy rocker panels and roof structure forming a box. With the body stripped of all bolt-ons I don't think they weigh enough to worry about popping glass. At one point I was wheeling my car around like a wheelbarrow by myself with only the rear axle in place.
 
Ok. Some great ideas here. I thank you all. Regarding the supporting braces for the door openings on the vert, I don't see any on Hammers photo. Any problems? Not trying to re-invent the wheel here or cut corners, I just don't weld or have a welder
 
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