Balancing stroker kit ???

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1971Duster340

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Juneau, Alaska
hey so instead of getting a 416 or 417 stroker like i was saying i decided to go with something a little more managable i think a 372 stroker kit. You can view the kit here( http://www.strokerkits.com/index.ph...product_id=872&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1 ) but there is an option for an extra $175 to get it balanced i was wondering what this is and if its worth it? Also what HP range can i expect from a kit like this? Also should i get flat top or dish pistons whats the difference and which is better?
 
I always want my shop to balance my stuff. Most discount balance jobs are just that. On the piston choices... What is the rest fot he combo looking like? Piston choice for me depends on usage and heads being used.
 
I agree with Moper . Buy the parts and have your local machine shop do the balancing.
 
the engine is a 340 with stock x-heads. But im in Alaska it'll take a long time for the kit to get to me and if something is wrong it would take awhile for me to send it back but the kit is rated for 600HP using dish top pistons 4340 forged connector rods and a crankshaft 5140 but if i get the kit and have my block bored .030 over and then have it balanced what does that intail because i want to assemble the kit and block back together but what needs to be done for them to balance the kit and what assurance do i get from that?
 
Most of the kit balance jobs are not that great and a good local machine shop probably wouldn't charge more than that anyway. Do you have a good local machine shop? I mean one that other race car or hot street car guys use? Also as moper stated the piston choice is going to come down to the intended purpose of the car. You'll need to figure in if the car is a strip only vehicle and will run race gas or if you want to drive it on the street and run pump gas.

I personally wouldn't go over 9.5:1 on a cast iron headed crappy pump gas engine. 10.5 with aluminum heads but the camshaft duration and overlap specs also play into the equation. Stick or automatic, how loose of a converter. Maybe you should post what you want from you car and state you want to build the 372 and ask for combo suggestions from there. But you still need to know chamber cc's to pick the corrrect piston.
 
You may want to looking at it from this point. If you pay the $175 for the parts to be balanced and are like most people, you are going to question if the balancing was done correctly. Then you end up paying your local machine to re-check the balancing that will cost more and if they find it to be off you have a new set of problems trying to get your $175 back or having them pay for the re-balancing, therefore I to would I agree with Moper. Buy the parts and have your local machine shop do the balancing.

Just My Thoughts...
 
moper said:
I always want my shop to balance my stuff. Most discount balance jobs are just that. On the piston choices... What is the rest fot he combo looking like? Piston choice for me depends on usage and heads being used.
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According to "Mike" at Scat Crankshaft, All of their sbm. kits leave factory as internally ballanced. This seems weird since, Flatlander Racing charges $115. extra ? Anyone buy a kit from Flatlander ? We be Strokin, ateam.8)
 
ateam said:
According to "Mike" at Scat Crankshaft, All of their sbm. kits leave factory as internally ballanced. This seems weird since, Flatlander Racing charges $115. extra ? Anyone buy a kit from Flatlander ? We be Strokin, ateam.8)
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Just because it's able to be internally balanced doesn't mean it is and as I said, the kit balancing job is not that good. Consider it like a factory balance job where as long as it's within 45 grams, it's OK.
 
No, they leave with the ability to be internally balanced. It means they have large enough counterweights to offset even the hevy H beam rods.
 
its a 727 torqueflite auto im looking to get mid 500's to top of 600HP i can get whatever torque converter to compliment that. The kit with dish top pistons can reach that HP range and the comp ratio is 9.5:1 so what kind of fuel would that be needing. The purpose for the car is street/strip there is no strip in Alaska but i want something that i can cruise on sunny days in Alaska (which are very rare ha) But i want that power there incase some jerk pull up next to me at a stop light if you know what im saying ;) i do want an updated cam of course but i dont want a ton of power im looking at a cam that has these stats


Adv. Duration @ 0.050” Lobe C/Line Valve Lift Basic RPM Valve
Inlet .298° .212° .112° .447 th 1200- Hyd
Exhaust .298° .218° .112° .447 th 5200 Hyd


you can check out the cam and lifters here http://www.hemiperformance.com.au/store2/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=1439 is that too much or not what kind of fuel am i looking at running and along with golden cran 1.6 rocker arms and a M-1 intake with holley 750cfm double pumper does that all sound ok?
 
looks barely over stock on the cam if it were me i would look for something in the 480 lift range at least but everyone is diffrent
 
You might as well go for the 4" stroke as there is no extra cost and cubes matter. The pistons should be selected based on your heads and the desired compression ratio. The kit might be rated for 600hp but my guess is that you will be in the 400 hp range with stock heads. I would get a better cam recommendation from a reputable cam company based on your final combination (heads/compression/hp goal/use). 212 [email protected] is pretty mild. There is no point in increasing stroke if you can't fill the cylinders. Based on my experiences with aftermarket parts, I would check all fits/clearances and be prepared for some machine shop work for making things right. On a budget, I would perhaps just go with a stock bottom end rebuild. The other option is to spend the $$$ on the bottom end as you can always upgrade cam, heads, intake later. Good luck with the project!
 
Are you going to have a power adder? Super charger, turbo, NOS? Your cam selection is close to stock. What about head work? Where do you see this thing making over 500hp?
 
i talked to a tech and im going to need to do serious porting if i want that power from the stock head there at 160cc right now i need to get them to 190cc along with a compcam xtreme hi-lift cam kit and m-1 single plane intake i should make around 550Hp with a 9.5:1 comp ratio i will need a 2600 stall torque converter and 1.6 ratio aluminum rocker arms i think its doable its gonna be a lotta work though
 
1971Duster340 said:
i talked to a tech and im going to need to do serious porting if i want that power from the stock head there at 160cc right now i need to get them to 190cc along with a compcam xtreme hi-lift cam kit and m-1 single plane intake i should make around 550Hp with a 9.5:1 comp ratio i will need a 2600 stall torque converter and 1.6 ratio aluminum rocker arms i think its doable its gonna be a lotta work though
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I don't think so. Check out Hughes Engines dyno tests http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticles/6408416strokerdynotests.php

They couldn't make 500 hp with professionally ported iron heads in a 408. You would need more compression, 3.91 gears or better and a 3000 rpm converter. There would be nothing wrong with that engine for a street brawler although it may not be particularly civil.
 
something is wrong with that then because those bigger stroker kits are rated for a lot more HP and everything was pretty much stock on that the intake exhaust from that im guessing they wouldnt bother with a new cam or rocker arms sure just the kit will give you that HP but i checked with three other techs same result
 
with an hi lift cam dramatically ported heads 1.6 ratio rockers and the 372 stroker kit they say at best i can make 550HP thats what the stock heads can handle ill be satisfied with 500 or even 450
 
1971Duster340 said:
with an hi lift cam dramatically ported heads 1.6 ratio rockers and the 372 stroker kit they say at best i can make 550HP thats what the stock heads can handle ill be satisfied with 500 or even 450
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> ComCams-it's a free download. It said my 5.2L Magnum(street), should make 523 hp.(impressive), I don't neccessarily buy-it. Anyone have approximate weight on sbm with alum. heads,int. ,tim. cover and water pump? Why is the gen. III hemi so heavy,(533 lbs.)? ateam:read2:
 
With the parts you're thinking of, you wont make those numbers. Especially on pump fuel and labeled as a street car. So I'd start by getting realistic. If you are running factory iron heads you will spend big coin to get decent enough numbers that will support the high side of 500hp while on a low static ratio and "streetable" camshaft. I think you should do a bit more research on things.
 
1971Duster340 said:
something is wrong with that then because those bigger stroker kits are rated for a lot more HP and everything was pretty much stock on that the intake exhaust from that im guessing they wouldnt bother with a new cam or rocker arms sure just the kit will give you that HP but i checked with three other techs same result
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The kit doesn't give you any hp except for the gains from more displacement and perhaps lower ring friction. A good bore and hone will help too. The kit is designed to support more hp. If you installed the stroker kit with stock cam, heads, etc you might make a few hp more than a stock 340. More hp is developed by moving more air and fuel through the engine. This requires matched intake, carb, cam, heads and headers.
 
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