Battery Relocation pics?

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I don't see a cable gage size for the battery cable. It doesn't look like a bad kit but the wrong gauge of cable will cause many problems since the current has a long way to go. I'm pretty sure the cable I had on my trunk mounted battery was 3/0 welding cable.
 
most important thing is to get a 4 pole switch, this allows you to kill everything if needed. and that kit wont work as you need about 16-20 ft of positive cable
 

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It says it has 20ft of positive cable.. Doh, 12 feet. My bad.
 
PA Dodger said:
I don't see a cable gage size for the battery cable. It doesn't look like a bad kit but the wrong gauge of cable will cause many problems since the current has a long way to go. I'm pretty sure the cable I had on my trunk mounted battery was 3/0 welding cable.
Click to expand...

x2, you need to find out what gauge the cable is. It can never be too big, too small will cause problems.
 
805moparkid said:
most important thing is to get a 4 pole switch, this allows you to kill everything if needed. and that kit wont work as you need about 16-20 ft of positive cable
Click to expand...

X2, but wrong terminology.


What you want is a 4 TERMINAL switch, which is "two pole"

A 2 terminal switch is "single pole"

You can take the second set of contacts, ground one terminal, run the other forward and hook to one end of a relay coil. Use your switched ignition to trigger the other end of the relay, and use the relay contacts to either kill ignition, or to kill the alternator field.

If you have a "one wire" alternator, use a relay as above to kill ignition, or a heavy relay/ solenoid to kill the alternator output.
 
Rockerdude said:
Hey guys, Im looking to free up some space in the engine bay of my wagon by relocating the battery to the back. How do you set up you Battery Relocation setups?

This is the kit I was thinking about buying

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-Al...Parts_Accessories&hash=item588f61604f&vxp=mtr
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memike hade to move mine Rockerdude:smile:
I believe fresh air is very important here in Arkansas or anywhere it gets and stays above 90 + for more then 5 months a year :glasses7:
It works for me, I ran my main power to the drivers side and grounded at the rear frame rail right below the battery , Fresh air was my priority with out cutting my hood open
 

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67Dart273 said:
X2, but wrong terminology.


What you want is a 4 TERMINAL switch, which is "two pole"

A 2 terminal switch is "single pole"

yes your right... doh!

You can take the second set of contacts, ground one terminal, run the other forward and hook to one end of a relay coil. Use your switched ignition to trigger the other end of the relay, and use the relay contacts to either kill ignition, or to kill the alternator field.

rather than run a relay just cut the blue/yellow wire going to the ballast and run the one half to the small terminal and then the other half to the other small terminal... this kills ignition and VR...
Click to expand...
 
4 post on/off or run a continuous duty relay for the alt line.

I usually run 1/0 wire for starter line, through a ford style relay.
 
I know I went overboard but here is mine. The master relay is in the box along with a couple of 60amp accy relays. My grounding system starts at the buss bar next to the box.
Andrew
 

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You all like my 70 dart trunk matt :D from Bill Dedman
the relay is for the trunk latch power supply by the battery. a gift from grumpascreature ..
Yes my car will run with my switch off but it will not start :D
 
Can anyone share a kit that they've used successfully?
How about a switch that will do the job?

I've decided that the relocation kit is the absolute next thing that I have to do since my positive cable is toast and replacements are as much dough as a whole relocation kit...for whatever damn reason.

I've never done one of these before. A few questions come to mind:

How did you affix the cable to the underside of the car? Do most kits include some kind of clips to accomplish this?

Where do you route the cable to cross over the drive train to get to the starter? Presumably at the rear...but how did you insulate the wire where it passes the header/head pipe?

NHRA requires a metal case and a switch, correct?

Kit should have 20' of 0g or 1g wire for the positive cable?

Not properly venting the battery can have the added benefit of giving you hydrogen fuel cell power?

Drag racers will want the battery as far back as possible but road racers would want the battery closer to the center of mass...so closer to the seatbacks?

Thoughts on any of these questions would be appreciated.
 
I relocated the battery on my Duster when I put in the J-bars up front. I used this kit from Summit

Summit Racing® Premium Battery Relocation Kits SUM-G1231-K

Which had just about everything. I think I bought a couple of short sections for the hookup to the battery cut out switch. I set mine up with a continuous duty relay switch up front with the 4 pole switch in the back. This is the switch and relay I used
Moroso Super Duty Battery Disconnect Switches 74102
Moroso Alternator Shutdown Relay Kits 74107

This is how I hooked it all up. This is set up for a Mopar style alternator with the external voltage regulator. Del, 67Dart273, helped a bunch with this to keep me from burning my car down. I just made the fancy diagram.
batt-cuttoff.jpg


I bought some 1/2" insulated clamps for routing, but I did not run the wire under the car. Summit Racing® Insulated Clamps SUM-G1882 I followed the wire harness path inside the car. So on my car it runs up the right rear wheel well, across the front of the rear axle hump (underneath my fold down seat panels) to where it ties into the regular harness location, then runs down the driver's side of the car underneath the shielding for the original harness. It goes out through the firewall in the driver's footwell and comes out right at the starter. I do have some heat shielding on the wires that run from the starter to the starter relay.

If you don't have a fold down seat car, you could locate the battery on top of the rear axle hump on the right side. It would be more out of the way for trunk usage, but harder to install and remove the battery. And, you'd need longer cables to run back to the switch, which would still need to be near the rear of the car if you're looking to be NHRA compliant.
 
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