Battery relocation wiring

[gumper]

I've had my battery in the truck for a few years now, but it isn't done 'correctly'. I've been disconnecting the FLD wire to get through tech at all the tracks, and then hoping no one randomly checks the cutoff switch in the staging lanes. I can see myself in the final round of Pro at the Divisional Finals getting random checked then DQ'd, so this year I'd like to fix the issue.

Can I take the large wire on the alternator (which I believe goes through the firewall on those junky bulkhead connectors which also need replaced) cut and solder a new wire to run back to the battery, then run another wire off the other side of the cutoff switch back to that same wire I cut to wherever it goes into the dash? It'd go from alt, through firewall, back to the switch, then wired off the other side of the switch, back up to the dash where the wire disappears to wherever? Or am I better off doing it with one of the smaller alternator wires?

I've read you can put a switch off the FLD wire, and shut it off in tech and on the track. I do not want to do this because at no point do I want to run just off the battery power. I go lots of rounds, and having a dying battery is like the devil.

 

[67Dart273]

"In my opinion" (read the rules a few times) running a separate wire from the alternator to the battery violates the intent of the rules.

Also, ask YOURSELF, when you are upside down in "that thing" with gasoline dripping everywhere, do you REALLY want a hot alternator wire welding around here and there?

What I like to promote is a 4 terminal switch known correctly as "double pole." "Someone" is now making one with considerable contact ratings. That is a large pole (2 contacts) for main battery and a pair of smaller terminals. The small contacts ARE NOT intended for a lot of current

Run a pair on no14 wires back to the small switch contacts. There's a number of ways you can implement it. Use it to break the EFI pump relay, ignition relay in series with the key, etc. Several ways to do that.

 

[gumper]

Well I need some way to cut the power from the alt, and I already have the switch. No matter what happens if I'm upside down someone would have to shut the switch off to kill the power. Right now as it is that shutoff won't kill the engine, which is why I need to run the power wire to one side of the switch and come back off the other side.

 

[Serj22]

I'm subscribing to this. I have a similar issue to handle to pass tech, but haven't hooked my switch up yet. I wound up with a single set of poles, and keep seeing that the 4 poles are needed, which sucks because I bought this Moroso switch off Summit thinking it had everything needed to shut the car down - nope - just the battery.

 

[67Dart273]

You are missing my point. If you run a separate alternator lead to the battery side of the switch, that wire will still be hot. It is still a danger regardless if the switch is pulled. "Of course" someone needs to pull the switch. But you would really hope that it kills the power

Those switches are not that expensive. If that is what makes or breaks you as a racer, you can't afford it.

70 bucks there are others

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lng-45782?seid=srese1&gclid=CKW-xoCUz8UCFdKEfgodVY0AXA

 

[70aarcuda]

the 2 pole switch will work..but the alternator battery return must go to the battery side of the kill switch.....but as said..the alternator wire will stay hot...cause it is hooked up to the battery.....

someone has a drawing of using a continuous duty relay to turn the alternator wire on and off with a relay from the ignition switch

 

[gumper]

Yeah I see what you're saying now. Either way an alt wire has to go back to the switch. Will that wire I spoke of work? I'll add a different switch to my Jegs list.

 

[gumper]

I guess no matter what I do it will still have a hot wire under the hood. Will running the battery wire to the switch at least kill the engine when the switch is flipped?

 

[skykeith]

Get a Moroso 74102 switch and wire it according to one of these diagrams

 

[67Dart273]

There is all kinds of ways to do this. EG are you by chance running MSD? If so, just "break" the key / switched power to the "small red" on the msd and wire that back to the small terminals on your switch.

That is, in that particular case, no relay needed.

Keep voltage drop in mind for other schemes.

 

[gumper]

I run a Mallory digital box. I can still run the power wire from that back to the switch and kill the engine that way.

 

[DrCharles]

You are missing my point. If you run a separate alternator lead to the battery side of the switch, that wire will still be hot. It is still a danger regardless if the switch is pulled.

The four-pole switch is the preferable solution, but he can also fuse the alternator lead (at the battery end). Yes, it'll be hot at all times, but if damaged/shorted it will blow the fuse...