BB Valiant Suspension Setup for Drag

-
Regarding the caltrac bars, they look like they are parallel to the ground....have to do some research about this topic, dont know if this is the way it should be.

Do a search here regarding setting up caltrac bars, pretty sure there is a thread about.

Gruss nach Eisenhüttenstadt!
 
i checked the videos again. I´m no chassis specialist but to me it seems that the front is fully extend and then the rear tire is unloaded then it starts hopping. I´d think some more rebound in the front should help also.

Michael
 
maybe full rebound and middle compression at the rear is the way to start for a stick shift car.
The 90/10 in the front seams to be ok. maybe like you told a bit more rebound.

I try this
 
In my opinion not enough extension travel for your 6cyl bars at current ride height, as the front seems to hit the stops pretty hard. When the front tops out hard, the momentum of that pitch rotation causes the rear to dip which causes the 11psi slicks to bounce. The more pre-loaded the front springs/bars are when they top out, the more that topping out will upset the chassis. You don't want one of those little "jerk the tires off the ground" preload wheelies that upsets the chassis, you want a graceful wheelie that carries the front down the track.

Ideally, you want no pre-load of the front springs/bars at full extension. To reduce pre-load at full extension, your basic options are...
...slow front travel with shocks to the point that it doesn't top out.
...shorten/remove the rubber stops.
...increase extension travel by adjusting static ride height closer to the bump stops.
...stiffer springs/bars which will un-load with less travel.

Grant
 
Last edited:
For reference, the avatar is a split mono Caltrac car but 727 trans. About a dime clearance on the bars both sides. 90/10's up front but only Calvert 9-way shocks in the back so I can't adjust compression and rebound separately. Footbrake car with a flash stall of 5000 rpm at the hit. 408 stroker that runs 11.0x's at almost 120 mph.

It has done bigger wheelies but it's a bracket car and is very forgiving/does not spin so I leave it as-is. Just a reference point for you as I know you're looking for bigger wheelies.
20250211_075348.jpg
 
For reference, the avatar is a split mono Caltrac car but 727 trans. About a dime clearance on the bars both sides. 90/10's up front but only Calvert 9-way shocks in the back so I can't adjust compression and rebound separately. Footbrake car with a flash stall of 5000 rpm at the hit. 408 stroker that runs 11.0x's at almost 120 mph.
60 foot times?
 
@mohni as well as what weedburner and 360duster said, it also looks like your car could benefit from a little preload (maybe one flat) on the right side caltrac bar.
 
If you have room for the tire, moving the springs to the highest front hole will cut down on the anti-squat.
 
Last edited:
@mohni as well as what weedburner and 360duster said, it also looks like your car could benefit from a little preload (maybe one flat) on the right side caltrac bar.

Do you mean preload at the caltracs?
More preload makes softer hit i think?
 
Ah understand.. this chassis things are not so easy :rolleyes:
Yea and not very intuitive either, what works for one car may not work for yours. Testing is usually what will get you the most definitive results. Write EVERYTHING down and keep notes of what the car does.
 
Nice car! Keep after it taking the advice given here. With the help of some slower video, it'll work well.
 
My first thought is to get rid of that CenterForce clutch ( they are only good for one thing breaking driveline parts) or at least the disc and put a rag disc (organic disc) in the car and a Clutch Tamer or a Soft-Loc clutch( adjustable slipper clutch). Either one will soften the hit and keep the engine in it's power band longer and lower your 60 foot.
The set up I have in my Dart with a 4spd and Soft-Loc clutch, and Cal-Tracs is, QA-1 single adjustable shocks on the front set to zero clicks with 6 cyl. T-bars, one inch lowering Cal-Tracs springs in top hole, and one flat of preload. Viking double adjustable shocks with rear spring eye sliders. Shocks are set to 15 clicks rebound and 9 clicks of compression( remember no two cars are the same), 60 foots are in the high 1.4x and I shift second gear 40 to 50 foot out, Trans has a 3.04 first gear, 2.0 second and 1.38 third,1 to1 fourth with a 4.30 rear end gear and 9/28 stiff sidewall slicks. Dart weighs just shy of 3500 with driver, with a 416 10 to 1 comp. small block with a decent set of heads and a 256/263 .668 lift roller cam, street and track driven. As far as clutch linkage goes I prefer manual linkage to hydraulic simply because I can adjust were the clutch grabs for better reaction times, if I am a little to slow I will adjust it to grab closer to the floor, if I am a little to quick then I will adjust it higher off the floor ( I am an old guy and some days the old brain doesn't work so well and some days it works to well).

Resized_20231008_110005.jpeg


CachedImage_1920_1080_POS4.jpg
 
Hey Guys, thanks for all the Tips.
Maybe i write this wrong.
Big Problem with my Plymouth is the weight Transfer. I will Set the Suspension with your Tips at the next Race 8. August
 

I have to edit my post, in the one sentence i meant to say the Cal-Trac bars are in the top hole not the springs. The Dart is not tubbed, the spring were moved the 1/2 to 5/8 inches over against the stock frame rails. I get about 1 1/2 to 2 inches of rise out of the rear suspension at the hit. The front and rear spring eye bolts (I have sliders, but with shackles upper bolts too) and the bolts on the front and rear of the bars were snugged up and then backed off, and turned back in to just take the play out of them. Which eliminated the bind in the rear suspension and got rid of the bouncing in the rear on launch and kept the tire planted.
As far as the front travel is set, I put tubular upper control arm on and cut the rubber stops for them down to an 1/2 inch high and lowered the T bar adjustment to get 5.5 and 6 inches of travel in the front suspension. Cal-Trac's call for a minimum of 5 inches. I hope the advise you got from the members here get you on track to better launches and quicker ET's, Good Luck at your next Track Day
 
Hello everybody. Here some Updates:
I run 11.1 all 6 Races at the Weekend. No PB, but still good.

Front Suspension:
Compression 18 Clicks
Rebound 2 Clicks

Rear:
Rebound 17 Clicks
Compression 4 Clicks

Cal Tracs Lower Hole and 1 Turn Preload.
Tyrepressure 11,5Psi

Still Bad 60ft with wheelspin
img_2_1754937169945.jpg
 
-
Back
Top Bottom