There's nothing that Pirate Jack sells that you can't get a better version of from DoctorDiff. And if you buy from DoctorDiff, you'll actually get customer support. From PirateJack you will get offshore parts and no support whatsoever.
BBP conversion
- Thread starter 63Tigerlily
- Start date
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There's nothing that Pirate Jack sells that you can't get a better version of from DoctorDiff. And if you buy from DoctorDiff, you'll actually get customer support. From PirateJack you will get offshore parts and no support whatsoever.
63Tigerlily
Well-Known Member
That's excellent feedback, and I thank you. My whole point withthis is as many OEM parts as possible to avoid all too common aftermarket fiascos.
Sure thing!
I've been doing business with Cass (DoctorDiff) for years. Some of the parts will be the same as from PirateJack and other sellers, because the ultimate source is the same. For example, I'm sure the replacement spindles all come from the same place. However, the additional parts like, rotors, bearings, brake hoses etc have all been high quality from DoctorDiff, and that's not what you'll get from PirateJack. At least not from what I've seen.
The biggest thing is that if you do have a problem, you can send Cass an email and he'll get back to you and help you sort it out.
good used OEM parts are out there as well.
also coming up on Fall Fling next month and i know for certain you'd be able to source a complete set up in the swap meet there.
if i was looking to buy a new set up, Dr. Diff would get my money. the price is competitive, but the service is what sets Cass apart in the field.
also coming up on Fall Fling next month and i know for certain you'd be able to source a complete set up in the swap meet there.
if i was looking to buy a new set up, Dr. Diff would get my money. the price is competitive, but the service is what sets Cass apart in the field.
The DrDiff kit is very complete and works 100x better than any factory brake setup. Just keep in mind that it will push your track width out a little on an Early A body. Tire clearance might be an issue and you’ll need a 15” rim. Factory 15” steelies will clear.
you realize that the Dr. Diff set up is factory brakes, right?
14" factory steel bbp rims fit the smaller 11" rotor, because that's how ma mopar made them.
Yup, just 73+ Ma Mopar disks.
I will say though that there are some 14” wheels that don’t fit. I don’t have a definitive list or anything, but some 14” wheels work and some don’t. Especially if you’re getting the kit that has the 5x4” pattern on the later rotors and trying to use SBP 14” wheels.
My mistake. I thought we were talking about the DrDiff 11.75”. 15” steelies are tight on those.
That is definitely true!
The 11.75’s are also a factory Mopar brake, just for the later B/R bodies.
So the DoctorDiff Stage I brakes are the standard 73+ Mopar disks and are 10.95”, the Stage II brakes are the 11.75” Mopar disks. Stage III is a 13” rotor with PBR mustang calipers. Stage IV is a different set of 13” rotors with Viper calipers. The stage III and stage IV kits require 17 wheels, and there are probably some 17” wheels that will not clear the stage IV kit.
63Tigerlily
Well-Known Member
Still needs an alignment and I don’t have as much pedal as I’d like, but it’s back on all fours with the 75 rear and the 76 discs.
63Tigerlily
Well-Known Member
After ignoring all the shock advice on here, I put in stock shocks with 1.03 bars.
After alignment I experience a shake. Not always and inconsistent. Sometimes at about 50 moh, sometimes after tapping the brake…. I can’t nail it down.
Is it possibly the stock shock unable to control the jounce of the bigger bar?
After alignment I experience a shake. Not always and inconsistent. Sometimes at about 50 moh, sometimes after tapping the brake…. I can’t nail it down.
Is it possibly the stock shock unable to control the jounce of the bigger bar?
AbodyBB
Well-Known Member
An intermittent shake or vibration to me points more to a loose part. Lift it off the tire with a jack under the control arm and try to shake the tire. You can check all ball joints that way.
if you check part numbers on rockauto, you can see that the shock is the same from 63 on up.
if you check part numbers on rockauto, you can see that the shock is the same from 63 on up.
63Tigerlily
Well-Known Member
Did all that. The consensus here was bigger bars need tougher rate shocks.
I DO need to go get the front tires balance checked. I used beads like I do on rigs at work but who knows
Put BBP front discs on it buddy. It's a no brainer.
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
I think he said he done put a front disc setup off a '76 A Body on there and has the car back together.
Good. If it's truly a 76 setup, he did good. They have bigger caliper pistons than the rest.
AbodyBB
Well-Known Member
So,
Let’s talk some engineering here.
Shocks in engineering terms are a “dashpot” when doing the calculations for underdamped vs critically damped vs over damped the two variables which are important is spring rate yes but more importantly it’s MASS. So unless you added weight to the car, you don’t increase dampening to an already over-damped system. In cars it leads to severe instability on uneven surfaces. (LA streets)
Have you ever noticed the older cars seemed to rise higher up and “float” over wash boards and other repeated bumps? that’s because they are over damped. The shock is to big already.
Now we’re adding more spring to the equation. Combine the already oversized shock with a spring that’s much stiffer, you have now thrown the dampening way out. I can’t spill to many more bits on this. Search Mass-Spring-dashpot and there are plenty of articles on it. Just keep in mind your suspension is meant to respond to huge road variation at many different speeds. And the balance of your suspension on a closed perfectly maintained track is very different than public roads.
I don’t want to sound dismissive or arrogant. I apologize if I do. Suspension and brakes are critical to safety and an eye toward balancing them both individually and together is important.
Let’s talk some engineering here.
Shocks in engineering terms are a “dashpot” when doing the calculations for underdamped vs critically damped vs over damped the two variables which are important is spring rate yes but more importantly it’s MASS. So unless you added weight to the car, you don’t increase dampening to an already over-damped system. In cars it leads to severe instability on uneven surfaces. (LA streets)
Have you ever noticed the older cars seemed to rise higher up and “float” over wash boards and other repeated bumps? that’s because they are over damped. The shock is to big already.
Now we’re adding more spring to the equation. Combine the already oversized shock with a spring that’s much stiffer, you have now thrown the dampening way out. I can’t spill to many more bits on this. Search Mass-Spring-dashpot and there are plenty of articles on it. Just keep in mind your suspension is meant to respond to huge road variation at many different speeds. And the balance of your suspension on a closed perfectly maintained track is very different than public roads.
I don’t want to sound dismissive or arrogant. I apologize if I do. Suspension and brakes are critical to safety and an eye toward balancing them both individually and together is important.
Did all that. The consensus here was bigger bars need tougher rate shocks.
I DO need to go get the front tires balance checked. I used beads like I do on rigs at work but who knows
The stock shocks with a set of 1.03” bars will not cause an intermittent shake. The damping of the shock will not match the frequency and load profile that the springs are putting out, so ride quality and suspension performance won’t be perfect. But I’ve run stock shocks with 1” torsion bars, it’s not some massive issue. You can just tell the bars are leading that equation, you’ll be on the soft side of critical dampening. I’ve also run large bars and KYB’s, and of the two I’d run stock replacement Monroe’s or Gabriel’s before I ran KYB’s with 1”+ bars. The KYB’s and large bars will rattle your teeth out. Obviously a good set of shocks with proper valving for large bars would be best.
But that’s not what you’re describing. The shocks wouldn’t be an intermittent issue, that would be the same all the time. A shake at speed, or after hitting the brakes, and intermittently would suggest something is loose or moving around. Since you just installed suspension parts, I would make sure that everything you installed is properly torqued, the wheels bearings are fully seated and torqued properly with the proper end play, and that all the bushings are in good shape if you didn’t replace everything.
And yeah, have the tires balanced! That also shouldn’t be an intermittent issue though, that generally presents as a shake or vibration at a certain speed or range of speeds.
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