Before I make a mistake please help new mopar fan!!

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You can also try and find a 400 they make great stroker motors. Look around here and see what others are using for parts. Your stock drive train may not be up to snuff either. Will require a new drive shaft, brakes, maybe rear depending on what you have. And a tranny. If you find a 73+ disc set up snag the whole front end of it. Then use the spool mount K frame and move the mounts. Jim Lusk its a great person to ask questions on this and has done the Direct Connection style K frame.
 
I had a all stock 73 340 rallye charger in high school. Was only one other faster car. buddy of mine had a '71 camaro with a 400 small block. My car was even faster than a 1970 SS 396 chevelle and a 1971 SS 454 chevelle. That was also the lowest HP ratin 340 that was made. Had 8.5 (at best) compression and a cast crank. If you can get a 340 for 500, you better do it.
 
it is no more work to put in a bb than a small block. it is a bolt in deal. either one will bolt in and good headers are available for both, and both will run 12s without going too crazy.
 
jamesdart said:
it is no more work to put in a bb than a small block. it is a bolt in deal. either one will bolt in and good headers are available for both, and both will run 12s without going too crazy.
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It costs more though
 
schumacher mounts and tti headers cost about the same for both. there are exhaust manifolds that work for both bb and sb, and cost about the same. there are no cheap *** headers that capture the steering for a bb like there are for a sb, but you can buy the cheap hedmans and try your luck and fit the to a low deck. they work for some people. used intakes cost the same for both. core engines can be had for about the same cost. core transmissions cost the same, and he already has one of each. machine work costs the same if you are going to build it. radiator cost the same. exhaust cost the same. they use the same starter, alternator, carb. you are going to need the same tires, and rear if you plan on going 12s. pistons probably cost more. thats about the only thing i can think of that might have a significant difference in price.
 
I am running a 383 with 915 Closed Chamber heads 2.14 intake valves 1.74 exh, .509 lift cam, standard rockers right now (need 1.6 rollers), Team G intake, Demon 850 carb, and MSD Ignition system in my 74 duster. Its pretty peppy. I had fenderwel headers that I recently sold, and have not decided what I am going to do for headers yet. I want 2" TTI's but dont want to cut a 800 dollar pair of headers.
 
jamesdart said:
schumacher mounts and tti headers cost about the same for both. there are exhaust manifolds that work for both bb and sb, and cost about the same. there are no cheap *** headers that capture the steering for a bb like there are for a sb, but you can buy the cheap hedmans and try your luck and fit the to a low deck. they work for some people. used intakes cost the same for both. core engines can be had for about the same cost. core transmissions cost the same, and he already has one of each. machine work costs the same if you are going to build it. radiator cost the same. exhaust cost the same. they use the same starter, alternator, carb. you are going to need the same tires, and rear if you plan on going 12s. pistons probably cost more. thats about the only thing i can think of that might have a significant difference in price.
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I sort of agree and disagree with this statement.After all if you spend the same amount of money on a big block and a small block you wont end up with the same results. The big block will make enough torque to simply blow up anything behind it if you dont really build it. The small block wont and you can get away with a mostly stock tranny. This same idea has a snowball effect down the drivetrain. The rest of the gear will hold up to the small block,but not necessarily the big block. For example lets say the small block car has an 8 1/4 in it and a 904,pretty common. Now switch over to that built 440 and have fun because your kissing that 8 1/4 goodbye and the 904 as well. Not to metion busted U joints,twisted driveshafts,stripped axles, etc etc.
 
02sixxer said:
I am running a 383 with 915 Closed Chamber heads 2.14 intake valves 1.74 exh, .509 lift cam, standard rockers right now (need 1.6 rollers), Team G intake, Demon 850 carb, and MSD Ignition system in my 74 duster. Its pretty peppy. I had fenderwel headers that I recently sold, and have not decided what I am going to do for headers yet. I want 2" TTI's but dont want to cut a 800 dollar pair of headers.
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Sorry Paco.....I'm callin bullshit on "pretty peppy". My guess is the sumbitch probably don't get beat much.....if at all on the street. LOL you got some pics? Would love to see it.
 
StrokerScamp said:
Sorry Paco.....I'm callin bullshit on "pretty peppy". My guess is the sumbitch probably don't get beat much.....if at all on the street. LOL you got some pics? Would love to see it.
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+1 I got a 440 with 452 heads and stock valves but a comparable cam and mine is "pretty peppy" but I guess it depends on what one calls "peppy"

:toothy8:

I say go for the TTIs and let it eat.... I did.
 
Jim Lusk said:
The old MYTH about not being to make a big block A-body handle is just that, a MYTH. We've done it and have the autocross videos to prove it..............

YouTube - Alan autocross 8_25_2002 run 3.mpg

YouTube - Alan autocross 8_11_2002 run 2.mpg

And, BEFORE you mention something about the tire size, we first ran on 14" mags with 205-60-14s (the largest "H" rated 14" tire you could buy at the time).
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Man,that thing can handle!! Good job and good looking cuda!!:shaking2:
 
warwagons said:
413 is a good motor IF it is not from an rv. If the donor is a passenger car, you're good to go.
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Why is a 413 not good if it came out of a rv no good? I am thinking about buying one that has 66,000 miles on it, it is a 69.
 
I have heard that a low-deck B-motor with an aluminum intake, water pump & housing,
cylinder heads and steel tube headers is lighter than a fully dressed 273-360 with cast
iron exhaust manifolds and that a 426 Hemi similarly equipped weighs only 17 lbs more
than the all-iron small block.

My brother Denny ordered 440 Dart torsion bars for the first Hemi Duster he built (cast
iron block; aluminum everything else) and it was WAY too stiff. Ended up with 318 bars
in it and it was great.

Of course, if you are not going to buy the aluminum trinkets, it will be heavier, but my
other brother's all cast iron 440 Duster handles fine and has exhibited no obvious "heavy
front end tendancies" in over 60,000 miles of street driving (and he's got 318 bars in it).

A low deck 383/400 is an especially easy swap with TTI headers and Schumacker mounts
but will require a big block replacement radiator and a big block trans (auto) due to the
different bellhousing bolt pattern.
 
I'm surprised at how difficult some people are having at finding 440s. I set out to find one starting a few years ago and now have three 440s and one 400. I'm not a Mopar expert, but if it were me, I'd hold out for a 440. I pulled one of mine out of a 1977 motor home with 69 thousand miles on it. I was able to hear it run and assess the condition. It ran excellent and I got it with a 727 for $200. The trans is not usable in a car because it lacks a slip yolk so I'm keeping the trans for the internal parts if I ever need them and stored the engine and keeping it stock in case I need something to use if my built motor fails. I think that for a low cost build the 440 is the best choice.
 
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