Bench testing temp and ammeter gauges

[Trump_XLV]

Hello!
I've got my cluster out and testing all the gauges. I've verified my speed o meter and fuel gauge works after installing a new IVR. I'm wanting to now test my temp and ammeter gauges. The tools I have available to me is a 9v battery, wire leads, voltage checker light pen, and a multimeter, oh...and a lighter for the temp gauge. I've got the temp gauge sensor as well to test.

What is my best route on testing these with the tools that I have? I have the cluster here with me and my car is at a garage elsewhere. I do know the headlight switch works. I believe the gauges i have work, but i want to just verify before reinstalling it in the car. Replacing the IVR seemed to fix most of the issues i have.


Thanks everyone! this is my first restoration and i have very to little knowledge of cars. I'm learning along the way!


EDIT: I've edited this to say i've seen ways to test the water temp by touching the sensor to the negative side of the car batter with the key on and see if the gauge moves. Which if there is no way to test it outside of using the car then this is what i will do. but i'd love to know of ways to test it without the need of the car.

 

[Murray]

They all work the same. Voltage to the hot side and ground the other side.

 

[66Valiant528]

5V gages. Use 1.5v AAs . 3 batteries is about 4.5 v. You can test by 1 battery should move the needle about a third, 2 (3v) about 2/3 and 3 batteries almost full sweep. Don't use 12v you will fry stuff!!!

 

[CFD244]

They all work the same. Voltage to the hot side and ground the other side.

I don't believe that an ammeter works this way. They are wired in series and need a load.

 

[66Valiant528]

Yea doesn't work for the ammeter

 

[Dana67Dart]

The proper way to test gauges.

Get a 12v power source.

If the gauges are still in the cluster, attach the 12v plus to the proper pin in the cluster.

Attach the negative of the 12v power source to the metal housing of the cluster.

Get several resisters (5 watt will do) 10, 23, and 72 ohms ( you can use 7 x 10 ohms and 3 x 1 ohm resisters in series, 10 ohms = 10 ohm, 23= 2 x 10 ohm and 3 x 1 ohm in series, 72= 7 x 10 ohm and 2 x 1 ohm in series. Other values and combinations will work too)

The resisters will go between the sender pin on the cir board and ground.

10 ohms gets you full sweep
23 ohms gets half sweep
72 ohms should get the needle to be about E or L on the gauge


If the gauges are loose...

Same thing applies, get an IVR apply +12v to it's 12v input pin, jumper from the +5v output pin to one (doesn't matter which pin) of the posts on the gauge. The other post goes to the resisters then back to 12V supply negative. IMPORTANT... the IVR MUST be grounded to 12v source negative as well.

 

[MadScientistMat]

I have a video of Dana76Dart's procedure in action here. The power supply in this video could also test the ammeter with its adjustable current... but it probably wouldn't move it much.



You could easily substitute a car battery for the power supply when testing the temperature gauge. You could order the box you see in the video here.